Time for new Clutch,fly wheel and throwout bearing.

So my throwout bearing is starting to chatter and my mechanic said I should go ahead and put a new clutch in while in there.

So far I've seen these two packages.

Aisin OEM Clutch kit with Luk flywheel for $420
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083Y11L3X?smid=A2QC3NXFNVNM8T

LuK OEM clutch kit with Luk OE Flywheel for $419
https://www.amazon.com/CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-2005-2015-TOYOTA-TACOMA/dp/B089D27P6J

My mechanic said he would cryo treat it for $60 too.

I'm running 4.30 gears and 35/11.5/17 tires but no big power mods and dont offroad.
Would the URD sleve repair kit be nessacary?
https://urdusa.com/throwout-bearing-upgraderepair-kit-2005-tacoma-v6-6-speed/

Suggestions and advice welcome.

 

I have an Exedy TYK1515 new for sale if interested
Asking less than new price

I’d be curious to try URD stage 2 but they’ve been out of stock. Currently running CM HydroTOB. Re used my flywheel. pedal started acting weird lately; I think my clutch master is starting to leak internally and plan to replace with metal 3rd gen

some say LuK flywheel doesn’t mesh with the starter well. Which is odd because LuK brand is great on German cars

Aisin is OEM. Exedy claims to be better. I didn’t buy a new Aisin flywheel because they’re like $700.
If I were to do my clutch now I might drive the flywheel over to a machine shop to have it professionally resurfaced for $50.
A machine shop told me the flywheel is so thick and the material they remove so thin that shimming wouldn’t be needed

stock throwout bearing tends to squeak eventually. Stronger one like URD probably doesn’t hurt. Even better might be CM or Tilton HydroTOB. Both have threads on installation here

hydro comes at a cost. They’re usually around $400
While an old school plain throwout bearing is usually $30-100 depending on which one


I’ve heard stock design TOBs can even be greased with a needle attachment if they squeak, very carefully to avoid any lubricant getting spun onto clutch mating surfaces

 

flywheel surface may be inconsistent and causing your issues. I typically replace or resurface fw with any tranny disassembly, especially if there are apparent hot spots. fork lubrication to tob is quite necessary as well an loading up the tob spline with some high temp rtv. i found that ss line master to slave cylinder alleviates most of the slop.

Ive read about some hydro tb issues and wouldnt probably consider unless you have a stiff pressure plate that needs that much more pressure to actuate. reinforced Urd wouldnt be a bad consideration vs cracking the tranny open for periodic tob maintenance/replacement

 

it could be. However, it looked new when I removed it, as if it was driven gently or previously replaced (the flywheel) and I tried to be very careful with some light abrasive roloc and a ruler.

only reason I’m suspicious of the clutch master is because it’s old, has miles, and seals can wear over time. Plus I’ve heard they can leak internally and cause this. And it only started happening recently. Up until this point its acted fine and I’ve had the flywheel in for about a year now

that’s another reason I want to try the URD is the stiffer stage 2 kit pressure plate, not only for the benefits of more clamping force, but the fact that my CM HydroTOB made actuating the stock setup have easier pedal feel - it feels like it can handle a stronger pressure plate without getting crazy stiff

 

Yeah sounds like a new cm is due. Very true that the hydro tob would alleviate race truck leg cramping

 

Just throwing this out there: I have one, CM Hydro bearing kit, setting on the shelf for probably 2 years + now, from a group buy way back, and when I feared my stock clutch was about to go out... its still going and I don't have the desire to do this swap any more....

....so For Sale best offer ($350 range) plus shipping from 32080.

I was all excited and have the Oil cap in use in the truck... it is their aluminum Blue color and will go with the sale.

 

you know I was hoping so. Except I just swapped in a stage 2 clutch and it still feels stiffer. Not by a lot though. So far I’m liking it.
IMO the stock configuration clutch with CM HydroTOB felt too soft, which indicates low clamping force by the pressure plate fingers.
But some people might like the ease of driving something with a pedal that isn’t stiff

Curious to know others experiences. I know there’s a few people running that config; URD stage 2 kit w/ CM hydroTOB

Replaced the clutch master cyl with a metal OEM one from RockAuto (old was plastic) not long ago and that helped it feel better too.
Any time I do work like that I finish with a liter or two pressure bleed. I try to get up to 20psi but my tool refuses to hold that much (will switch to Motive, which does)
No idea if 1-2l per bleed is adequate or if more additional work is needed

that way is definitely the fastest and easiest. Simply crack the bleeder walk away and you’re done when a bottle or two is full

 

Still haven't done anything yet as is life.
I'm leaning towards just getting the Aisin kit with the URD sleeve but now I'm worried about the flywheel as I had the stock one resurfaced 3/18 when I had the clutch done at purchase of Taco.
The Luk flywheel seems like the only reasonably priced one but it sounds like some have had problems with it.

Tempting
Still for sale?

 

no, sold....

 

I have an entire Aisin kit with Luk flywheel I’m selling that at this point I’m basically giving it away.

 

Still selling this?