Any woodworkers?

Kinda toss up, but id lean towards most useful important stuff. Its easy to get off track

 

Usually whatever is most needed/important. If theres a long list sometimes do some of the quicker things to shorten the list

 

Good weather do stuff outside
Unpleasant weather do stuff inside

 

Anyone run a saw blade that's actually 1/8th inch or 0.125?

I'm running Freud and Diablo blades that are 0.114 at best.

 

Forrest WWII

 

Wow! They're sure proud of that aren't they?

Thank you though I did a Google search but it didn't turn up anything like that.

 

Just wrapped this up and my Tacoma didn’t help one bit!

 

I don’t know about being proud. I have one and that’s just what it is. You are looking for that, so I responded.

 

That’s awesome! How long did the Komiko take?

 

Im using lowes Spyder brand.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Spyder-10-in-60-Tooth-Carbide-Miter-Saw-Blade/1001864322

 

Nice!

 

New to woodworking for fun, so bear with me; why are you looking for a thicker kerf blade? I understand a dado setup and what that is for, but a single blade with a wide kerf? I've been trying to get the least kerf loss I can, but that is for situations where I'm making a small box and want grain match. Larger kerf = stability?

 

Less flex for me. The diablo blades are sharp but they flex a little too much for me.

 

Beautiful. I'm excited when I make a tight miter joint! I see you guys making these awesome things and am very impressed.

 

Thanks! If you already have the jigs and basswood to strips, it goes real fast, relatively speaking. I’d say 2ish hours for this one, over 2 days.

 

For me, I'm looking for the wider kerf as I am using 1/8 in hardboard and it's thicker than the Diablo Blade kerf.. so I'm looking to reduce my time trying to make things fit.

As you can see in this photo, the 1/8 inch hardboard is not only set into the outside pine, but each intersection is cut to overlap.. which equals too much fitting time when the saw blade is too narrow. The Back is also slotted into the pine and luckily this white hardboard was less than 0.125 so it slid right in.

Additional cases like this will use the regular 0.125 hardboard back so I have to figure something out.



I can easily get a Freud Ripping Blade that's 0.126 which should allow everything to drop in place as it's a flat toothed blade too.. but cross cutting with a ripping blade is not recommended.

 

I generally believe that a fatter blade is more stable, but a cautionary tale: I had a high quality (Dimar?) thick blade that developed a random flutter. Harmonics? Dunno. But I do know that I needlessly changed bearings on the tablesaw (f*&^!) while continuously denying the possibility that the blade could be at fault. I was honestly ready to scrap the saw when I finally changed the blade and all the problems went away.

Oh, and for what it's worth, (assuming a tablesaw) you can get a couple of matching cheap thin kerf 7-1/4 blades, shim the gap and get exactly the width you need.

 

Congrats on the home purchase.

Urgent/important/fun/what-the-spouse-wants... pick your poison. Personally, I'd lean toward the ones that cause the most disruption (for example, painting an entire room) before you get all your stuff moved in. Once stuff gets settled into place, there's more inertia preventing you from getting started.

 

I think Freud has a combination blade with the same kerf.