Hesitation during low RPM acceleration

I have heard of issues when accelerating hard AND turning sharply at the same time. The VSC system cuts power to the engine to prevent you from flipping your truck.

 

Ah, I don't think that's coming into play unless the sensor that detects that situation is faulty. This is close to dead straight acceleration and various levels of enthusiasm. Also, I would think that would cut power for a second or more, while this is split-second power loss like a misfire.

 

My 2021 Sport can be very sluggish accelerating in first if you're not generous enough with the gas while letting the clutch out.

It's most noticeable when you pussyfoot the gas and then hit it pretty hard to (try and) accelerate quickly -- like creeping toward an intersection and then trying to turn out and beat the coming traffic.

Like @RichVT said, it happens most often while turning (out in front of traffic, and pussyfooting.) Also on slight inclines, again while being too stingy on the gogo pedal.

Adding 35s without a re-gear has definitely not helped!

 

Hmm, based on what I'm feeling I would think that the increased rotational inertia of the 35's would actually help to mask the issue, in the same way that being ungraceful with a shift from 1st to 2nd is much more obvious than the same graceless shift from 5th to 6th.

I'm downloading a datalogging app to my phone now and I'm going to try to catch it in the act over the next few days. Nothing illustrates a point like hard data and visual aides.

 

Nice, please tag me if you make a post with that info.

I'd imagine this trucks gutless lack of torque at low RPM is gonna be the culprit.

Taking my truck to the dyno tomorrow to compare pre-35 numbers to post-35 numbers, then getting a tune Tuesday and taking it to the dyno again Wednesday. Really looking forward to having all the data to compare.

 

@MOC221_ has had this issue on both his 16 and 19 I believe

I’ve definitely had mine pissed off due to fuel before. These trucks are amazingly inconsistent which makes it very difficult to pinpoint the cause of these things.

 

Yeah. The Stock tune sucks. Get vF and be happy?

 

Is vF your top recommend for MT? Getting a tune in a couple days and not sure which to go with (I'm clueless.)

 

That is what I flash for my folks. I also recommend YotaWerxs by @mZiggy .

 

Unfortunately I already know that I'll have to sell the truck this summer so it doesn't make any sense to blow money on a tune I may only get 4-6 months out of. Was really hoping that somebody knew what was going on more than what to do to fix it. The "why" is sometimes (often, actually) more important to me than the "what".

 

The "why" is likely: 3.5L V6

 

It's a crappy tune that Toyota anchored us with. The only way to fix it is to flash something else.

The Stock tune is inconsistent, unpredictable, and down on torque. Other symptoms vary between Tacos, like the pinging that I had on hot days.

 

Is this an accurate representation of the what/when you're trying to describe?

 

2017 with in Jen intake. Yes, there is hesitation at times, but higher rev s are needed to combat this. Coming from a second gen of ten years, this time it is expected with the new engine. Added Murphy exhaust with a baffle gives it a whole new felling. But dyno or not It’s more fun to drive a manual. My shift points are 700 rpm’s higher with the exhaust upgrade. I am more satisfied with the performance fom this alone

 

Possibly. Could the valve opening or closing cause a momentary loss in power? And I mean momentary, like sub-1/4second. Or could the valve be popping open or closed for a moment due to poor programing or other glitch? I've noticed that it can happen multiple times in close succession if I stick with one gear from 1000 up through 3500 RPM, well north of my typical shift-point. Like, hypothetically, at 1200, again at 1600, maybe again at 2200 or something, but I haven't been able to nail down specific points in the range where it always happens.

I'm hoping I can get a bit more detail about the circumstances of its occurrence, if there is any rhyme or reason at all.

 

I also have a 2020 MT and am/have experienced the same problem. There is a TSB for the A/T that seems to address the issue, see below. I'm not sure if that would help with a MT but might be worth asking about.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Tacoma/2020/tsbs/tsb-t-sb-0092-20.shtml

Edit: Here is a link to another thread talking about the TSB

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tsb-0092-20-is-awesome.696230/

 

AFAIK, there's not a whole lot of specific info on exactly what conditions the system operates, other than what I posted.
The service manual has two tests you can perform to see if the motor operates. I don't know the corelation between flap door open/closed flap and motor clockwise/counterclockwise...and, just because the motor operates, doesn't necessarily mean the flap is.
Note, that one of the tests reverses polarity at the terminals to reverse direction...
https://www.ttguide.net/intake_air_control_valve_actuator_for_acis_-868.html

 

Thank you very much. I'm going to have to read up on that in the morning while I'm pretending to work on a national holiday.

 

Yessir, both had the stuttering.
The '16 with 04B10 calibration had some other quirks that bordered on dangerous, most notably the horrendous bog off the line. Add the accumulator weirdness to that mix...

 

Hmm, is there a way that I can find out which OEM tune is loaded and compare that to what's available?