Long Travel BS Thread

OEM hinges are basically just a part bolted to the cab / core support that you could reuse if you have them or just buy some off a part out. You buying a hood or really serious about a one piece?

 

oh i'm definitely thinking of a one piece with how the adv +6's turned out fitting...not entirely what i was hoping.... and a one piece would make working on stuff a breeze if hinged right. was just thinking switching to a 3rd gen would help with headlight sizing and possible future clearance issues if i wanna go to 37's. but i think i can get some new 2nd gens and retro fit some diode dynamics pods into it and just cut the whole backside away and close it up a little bit.

 

oh my bad - I thought you were already a 3rd gen looking to just go from fenders and a hood to a one piece:

https://youtu.be/kJ6q5eyg9Gw

https://www.mcneilracinginc.com/pro...acoma-conversion-off-road-fiberglass-bedsides

 

Finally everything cycles without binding or bending. Now death by a thousand small details.

 

Damn dude, like harry said, nothing but respect from over here! Looking great.

 

Thanks man. I finally feel like I’m over the hill on it. Now just a million tiny projects left to do and we will see if it rolls out of the garage

 

Exact truck i was thinking of when i commented that lol

 

Does having balljoints in the UCAs really handle all that much better than uniballs?

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe ball joints are preferable in OEM style applications due to minimal maintenance and trouble-free longevity. Uniballs are preferable in race-style applications because they're stronger and have a smaller footprint but at the cost of increased maintenance due to not lasting nearly as long.

As far as how that translates to handling one way or another, I don't know.

 

Sounds about right to me. I’m the past uniballs had a greater range of motion but modern ball joints I think have closed that gap if not surpassed the range of motion of uniballs. The argument like you said is gonna be strength vs maintenance

 

Sitting on its own weight. It’s about 2” too tall. Might settle and a bit more weight to add, but I think I’ll be swapping coils.

 

Looking good! Is that area at the top of the coil threaded all the way up? Like could you pull the 2" out of it from there?

 

It’s possible he’s at 0” of preload right now and if he backed that collar off that the springs would be loosey goosey at full extension. Obviously just a guess though.

 

That's true, didn't think about that. Can't have a loose goose

 

@EatSleepTacos is correct. That’s zero preload. On 125 and 150 coils. Seems so light based on IFS stuff haha

 

I'd wait till its full fluids and loaded like you'd be to head out. May settle out.

 

No doubt. Empty tank and still have some tube and stuff to add. Doesn’t take much to drop it.

 

if your effective spring rate is 68lb/in, then hopefully it drops down to right where you want it once everything's is buttoned up!

 

Hmmmm okay
I remember reading somewhere about Dirt King switching to ball joints on their LCAs for 'better tracking' so i was curious about the merit to that and how much better.(?) As far as longevity i replaced my upper control arms with uniball and factory LCAs all at the same time a couple years ago and the ball joints are worn out but the uniballs are still fine with a little triflow here and there. Maybe the climate has an affect (like it seems to with everything truck related) idk but just anecdotal observation from me that it hasn't made much of a difference having them sealed but that still doesn't really help me decide between the two either hmmmm

 

Ahhh I gotcha. I have heard of uniballs not returning to center during a turn as easily as ball joints and I did experience that when test driving a tacoma I had worked on when I installed his lift. I have no idea as to why that is though and can’t really expand upon it.