DIY: How To Replace An Output Shaft Seal

I went to the dealer today and they gave me 2 seals. 90311 41020 AND 90312 23001. In this thread I see some have used a 1/2 inch pvc union and some have used a 1 1/2 inch. Any clarification on what is what? I haven’t taken anything apart yet and trying to make sure I know exactly what I’m doing first.

 

This is what i used. I'd just take the seal to home depot and find one that lines up

edit... punched in the upc code that is one the side and it shows as 1 1/2

https://www.hirsch.com/2577935/p/n/nibco-l00200y

if you can get a piece that is a little longer, i would would. with the little shield it on the back of the transmission, it was a bit of a pita to hold and wack the pvc. a 6in piece would be ideal

 

Just to clarify my question. I was given 2 different seals which are 2 different sizes. This DIY is for 1 of those 2 seals. Hard to tell which since the original pictures are gone. My truck has the leak mentioned where the fluid beads up on the cup-like guard behind the transfer case. The OP said he used a 1/2 inch pvc union.

 

Thank you NorCal TRD...I have discovered the same problem with the seal,along with a the carrier bearing today...I'm slowly working my way through my 2007 Pre also..Had it 2 years and getting a late start...Rotors and pads next...I actually thought today's problem was the pinion bearing so I'm relieved...And I'm hoping this seal does the trick as well...75 bucks sounds a whole lot better than cracking open the differental...

 

I add the following as this thread worked for the front output shaft on my 2005 4x4, 6’ bed:

1. The most current seal part numbers are: Rear - 90311-41020 / Front - 90311-41012. Schematic was emailed from the dealer:

2. To remove the zirk fitting from the inside of the double cardon-like joint, I used an 8mm open face wrench and hammer to tap the head of the zirk fitting. I did so because I could not get a wrench inside the middle of the shaft. I tapped it in the lefty-loosy direction until I could complete removal by hand. See: https://youtu.be/8YuY6rv1hkE

3. That zirk fitting, next to the companion flange and inside the double cardon-like joint, requires a 10mm wrench, should you be able to reach it? However, I could not.

4. To reach the detent on the captured nut, I linked together two 3/8” extensions, a deep 10mm socket, with this IRWIN 3/32-in Starter Punch taped inside the 10mm socket. I put a ½” adapter in the end and hit it with my hammer to bend the metal out of the staked position. I had to use something this long, because I could not get across the cross member on my 6’ bed. With this configuration, I was able to knock out the staking enough for my breaker bar to move it. See: https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-6-in-Starter-Punch/1003172412

5. Noting, that was one tough nut to crack. I ended up holding onto the frame, while I put all my strength onto the breaker bar with my foot. Meaning I used my leg to push the bar to get the nut moving.

6. A seal puller was key – props for whomever mentioned!

7. My front output shaft would not turn, even when in neutral.

8. The passenger side, top nut on the companion flange was impossible to remove/replace. To remedy, I had to put the truck in 4wd and back it up a foot or two. Doing so turned the shaft so that the previously inaccessible top nut on the passenger side was then accessible.

9. The companion flange leaked really quickly after removing the seal. So having a drip pan nearby, while wearing rubber gloves, were key.

10. Due to the geometry on my 6’ bed, I used the two 3/8” wrench extensions and 10mm tape-wrapped socket ^^^ to tap the seal back in. Someone else suggesting using a wood dowel for this same reason, or that you can watch exactly what part of the seal you are tapping. I did so, because I could not reach the seal any other way.

11. For bonus points, and perhaps it worked(?), I reinstalled the zirk fitting before bolting on the 4 bolts of the companion flange and pumped it full of grease. I did so, because, by pressurizing the double cardon-like joint with grease I felt it assisted rebolting in the same manner as prevented removing when going in the other direction.

12. Finally, after resealing, and putting back together, I put in a tube Sta-Lube Equa-Torque Differential Friction Modifier as I read somewhere that it was good to use. See:

$15 Sta-Lube Equa-Torque Differential Friction Modifier SL2411-4 fl oz

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL2...er/dp/B000CPJMWU?sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==

13. After today’s test drive, still seems to be holding oil. On to the rear seal next.

 

I completed this project today and wanted to leave a few comments. I have a 2005 2wd tacoma prerunner.

I used part number 90311-A0031. The dealership was adamant that this PN was not for my truck. It fit, so only time will tell, but I wanted the updated seal.

The driveshaft u joint can't be perpendicular because then the joint wont have enough room to drop fully for the shaft to slide out of the transmission.

Seal removal tool is a must.

1 and 1/2 inch PVC connector was perfect.

I had the seal in the freezer before install. May have made it easier to get on. Didn't have too hard of a time getting the seal in.

 

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~seal~type~t~oil~90311-a0031.html
This seal is discontinued?

 

About how much $ am i looking at to pay the dealership to have the housing replaced that holds the seal?
Pulling the old seal out I probably nicked it up where the seal sits and thats why mine is still leaking after replacing it twice already.