Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

constant noise or intermittent? Belt noise or bearing type noise? Spray down the belt/pullies with water and see if the noise goes away afterwards. ??? The only belt/pulley routing that is suspect for a major F up is the oem belt routing near the alternator (step 103 in my instructions) - if you get that bolt on the wrong side of the belt you will have a problem and constant noise.

 

Haha. I did that.

 

That was the worst part of the entire instructions - totally a 50/50 shot. I studied that way too long and used the PDF version of the instructions to blow it up (scale) to the max to be sure I was seeing what the instructions said. You would think after all the time they spent making the detailed instructions they could have added a few defining pictures to make that part a no brainer.

 

seems to have stoped doing it at idle but you definitely hear it on the road. Play link. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0abPct3LRLuDorH1a-jYZQM6w#North_Las_Vegas

 

Another. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0baARIlhjy79RP22VvGX5gebQ#North_Las_Vegas

 

I am too old for the Cloud - but I will say if you hear it constantly when under load - driving - it is likely you got the belt riding on the smooth surface of the bolt and not on the smooth surface of the pulley. This would result in the oem belt not contacting the smooth pulley. The oem belt rises when under tension during operating and rides on the bottom of the smooth pulley (see step 94 and bottom green identified bolt). The OEM belt goes above the new bolt in step 103 which leaves the belt on the bottom of the smooth oem pulley and above the smooth surface of the bolt shown in step 102. It can't do this if the bolt is on the wrong side of the belt. Do a visual with the engine running - you should be able to see if the smooth pulley is operating properly with the oem belt riding up against the bottom of it - be careful and use caution when doing this as belts and other moving items are dangerous.

 

Mine does not make that sound at all. When my belt was positioned wrong it was more of a constant whine/high speed rub noise than yours which sounds somewhat like a rhythmic intermittent squeaking.

I'd check the belt routing and the torque on all the pulleys, could be one is a little loose and wobbling a bit which sometimes makes that kind of squeaking noise.

 

Mine made the same sound as yours early on when my nose drive was failing the first time. It’s failing again and sounds the same.

I really don’t want to have to replace the dang thing again but I need to make another warranty request soon. It seems like they last exactly 9 months before making noise on my truck lol.

 

@Cobramedic

probably find what you are looking for here with regard to pulley, tune, fueling. worth the read. or do a search of this thread for the items you are questioning. gl.

 

BOOST GAUGE

I bought a gauge that reads only boost but then read somewhere that, since a gas engine spends a lot of time in vacuum, it's better to use a combination vacuum/boost gauge.

What everybody using?

 

post-installation im feeling a little underwhelmed. kinda figured 8.5k would get you a little more spice. still drives weird. major delay upon setting the pedal on the floor. big, strange shift mid-range. looses tons of momentum. above 50mph, punching it doesn't really seem too impressive. I know its a truck and all, but they're awfully proud of this thing for what it does.

 

It sounds like your Magnuson Tune has not been developed to correct the shifting logic. Normal for the Magnuson Tune. Does your V7 show PCO, PRI, CS and TC and a gear correction ? If so that is the most recent version. No shifting logic correction. Good news... YotaWerx is developing a Tune that actually fixes the shifting logic and other deficiencies of the Magnuson Tune. @mZiggy is the person you want to contact and stay in touch with.

 

Im assuming I will need to employ the VF tuner dongle to look for pco, pri, cs and tc? I had to blower installed at a shop

 

the "tune" came to the shop if they did the flash - you should get the Tune, the Master Key and the hardware (OBD device and cable) that you paid for with the SC from Magnuson - otherwise you got screwed by the installer (about $180 plus on the Tune/Software/hardware) and can not do future tune updates (the Software is free from Magnuson/VFTuner but you need the MasterKey and hardware to use it). The PCI, PCO,... are identifiers listed in the tune description.

 

I received the master key, username and password to vf tuner and the dongle. I did not receive a copy of the tune file. Is that something I should ask for or?

 

If you tow you'll notice the supercharger a lot more once you put a load on the truck. It's much more apparent then compared to the usual gasping for life the 3.5 does when towing.

 

I’m using only boost. I could go either way. If I had to do it over I would probably get a vacuum/boost gauge. But not worth changing.

 

Install the 87mm pulley. Also consider a URD Spec U exhaust with equal length Y pipe. Both of these increase area under the curve and make a noticeable difference in power. They also help to fill in the torque dip at 3700-4300 RPM on the stock Magnuson tune. See dyno below. Same dyno. Same day. Same ambient temp. Just swapped exhaust and pulley while strapped down. Keep in mind stock NA motor with OV tune 2.0 dyno’d 212 WHP. Prob barely 200 WHP without the tune. So these trucks are basically anemic from the get go. The supercharger turns it into a normal truck to drive around town. Supercharged 0-60 is in the 6-7 sec range. Big whoop.

Absolutely. Pick up a $200 laptop, download VF tuner and get the original file sent. After doing a bunch of test tunes and bricking the ECU multiple times… shit happens. One fail in particular was unrecoverable via the VF tuner step by step recovery procedure. Right before calling the tow truck, flashed the original Magnuson file and the truck was back on the road. Point being, just get the original file and keep a cheap laptop in the truck at all times.

 

Thanks for all your input. Great idea about the dedicated, used laptop. I have just the thing. As for mods, I have the pulley on order. The spec-u exhaust, aside from being expensive, takes away a couple cats if I understand right, and I can't afford to play that game here in NJ.. Also plan to regear to 4.88 this summer. It will be another journey, I guess..

 

Im confused. So this is your opinion thus far which is relatively accurate. But a few posts later you're asking about the tune file. Did you drive on the stock factory tune?