2020 Tacoma Media port Relocation

This is what I was looking for. Heckin right! I have the carplay wireless adapter too - looks like I have a future project now. Will have to look at the timing I can do this!

 

Thank you for this link to the cable, I just ordered one.

Could you share some more info about the 12V charger? I'm thinking of ways to power the port with this new cable and if I could add more power sources like you mentioned that could be useful

 

I pulled the center console up and ran a 6ft USB from the CarPlay slot under the center console and up through the bin (I found holes already in the bottom of the bin). Was super easy and hides a lot of cable and the phone. I know it’s not super sexy but it was easy, looks clean and required no cutting/drilling of any kind.

Nevermind the mess on the floor, that’s all the stuff outta the bin haha

 

Hey guys. I know this is an old thread but I hope I can get a reply to this. So I’m not looking to relocate my usb media port but I want to convert it to a USB-C port. And still have the functionality of my CarPlay and charging. So after reading this entire thread, I’m wondering if this is possible by using the following items:
This is the AliExpress cable


These are the USB-C stock and adapter for the opening on the panel:

i know I still need an adapter/cable to go from USB-A to USB-C but would this work. Would I still have CarPlay and charging.

 

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish. The dash USB is already connected to the head unit. If you are not relocating, then why do you need that AliExpress cable? You only need that if you're relocating our head unit's USB somewhere else like to a phone on a dash-mount or stashed in the glovebox, center console, etc. Seems to me all you need is the male USB-A to male USB-C cord that came with your phone...plug it into the dash USB and your phone, and violà! CarPlay and charging (when your Tacoma is running). Am I missing something here?

Also, those USB-C adapters are "keystone jacks" for mounting in a keystone wall outlet in a building. I use those all the time for my job (mostly the network version). I haven't pulled my dash's USB port out, but I can virtually guarantee that Toyota did not fit their truck dash with a keystone jack used in building construction. Keystone jacks are definitely NOT what you need for your truck.

 

i was just wanting to replace the factory USB-A port for a USB-C port. All my new Apple devices come with a USB-C to Lightning cables. I know I can use the old style USB-A cables or just an adapter. But wanted it to look factory.

 

I've had quite a few people inquire about my hardwired triple 12V adapter. It's a bit off-topic for this thread, but I'll post a description and final photos here anyway.

I didn't take photos while building it, and I don't feel like taking it out and disassembling it to show. It's easy to build. Also, I misspoke originally: I have 2 always-on and 1 powered by ignition.


STEP 1: 3-socket 12V splitter
Find yourself a 3-socket 12V splitter. These are often called a 3-way cigarette lighter splitter.

Most of them have built-in USB charging ports. If you want that, great. However, I absolutely did NOT want built-in USB ports. That's just circuitry that will go bad or obsolete. Standards change, phones require more and more power. E.g., the original Android Quick Charge 1.0 was only 10 watts. We're currently at Quick Charge 5.0, which is 100W. Thus, whatever built-in USB you buy today might not have enough watts to power your future phone. If you just have sockets, it's easy to swap out 12V adapters with the newest one in mere seconds.

Anyway, here's the one I used with no built-in USB. One nice extra with this one is a built-in switch so I can turn off the always-on sockets if I ever need (but I rarely use it).

$18 Cllena 3 Socket Cigarette Lighter Splitter 12V Power Outlet Adapter with LED On/Off Switches for Car Rv Truck Marine Boat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091FR8GZD​

However, I DO NOT recommend using this one. All 3 sockets are connected at their base to a metal bar instead of easy to splice wires. IIRC, it was 2 metal plates separated by an insulator. I was able to delicately cut just the positive side (the one attached to the center) with a hacksaw to separate the 3 sockets into a single and a double while keeping the ground plate side connected to all 3, which was necessary because the metal bars are structural and keep the sockets in place. Also, I remember soldering onto the plates sucked--solder just wouldn't stick. Like I said, I don't recommend this one.

Instead of messing with that, I recommend this one.

$19 iztor 12-24V 3 Hole Tent Type Power Distribution Sockets Cigarette Lighter Splitter Power Adaptor Combination Automotive Accessory Outlet for Car and Marine

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXD0PUA​

I've used two of these while building out my bed into a camper (but that's a completely different topic). The downside to this one is that it has no back, so you can't Velcro it in place. The good news is that it's got tabs to easily attach wires, no soldering needed.


STEP 2: Wiring the splitter
Whatever splitter you choose, if it has plates like mine did, first you'll have to cut the plates like I described above.

Next, connect a red 16 gauge wire to the positive (center) connector/plate of the first socket, and a second red 16* gauge wire to the center connector/plate of both the other sockets.

If you have a switch like I do, make your always-on red wires short and connect it to one side of the switch, then connect a new always-on red wire to other side of the switch.

Connect a black 16* gauge wire to the ground (outer) connector/plate of all 3 sockets. This is ground for all 3 sockets.


STEP 3: Wiring into the Tacoma
You'll need 2 low-profile mini "Add-a-Circuit" fuse taps. I used this one, but you can find them locally at most auto parts stores.

$18 BioFuse 12 AWG Low Profile Mini ATT 20 Piece Automotive Car Fuse Assortment and Holders Set - 2 Add-a-Circuit Tap Adapters, 18 LP-Mini Blade Fuses + Puller (2A 3A 5A 7.5A 10A 15A 20A 25A 30A)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087WZ953T​

Crimp these onto your red wires from your splitter.

Pick your fuse to tap in the fuse panel on the left side of the driver's foot compartment. For my 2021 Off Road, I picked:

• Always On: D/L (driver side, 2nd from rear) tapped with 20A*
• Ignition: USB (driver side, 5th from front) tapped with 10A

For the black wire, this needs to be attached to any unpainted metal part of your Tacoma body/chassis. Usually there are factory grounding screws located throughout the vehicle. Look for a bolt that is screwed directly into the metal body with a bunch of white or black wires attached to it. I think I attached to a factory grounding screw behind the left wall of the driver foot area.

*Technically, 15A-20A should use 14 gauge wire and 30A needs 12 gauge. (In this application, ground = always-on + ignition = 30A.) Upgrade to these thicker gauge wires if you plan on running that many amps now or in the future.


STEP 4: Mounting the splitter
You get to benefit from my experiences/failures. Initially, I used Velcro to stick the splitter to the carpeting and padding above the brake pedal. Unfortunately, none of the Velcro stuck to the insulation. I tried heavy-duty sticky back Velcro on the insulation--that stuck for a bit but eventually fell off. I also tried just the hook Velcro on the back of the splitter, including the heavy-duty spiky kind, and attaching that directly to the slightly fuzzy insulation. Stuck a little, but soon fell off. The regular hook Velcro sticks well to the carpet, but that was too low (sometimes getting hit by my foot) and caused the carpet to pull off the factory Velcro strips and then sag, which would cause the splitter to eventually fall off.

My working solution is to attach the splitter to 2 pieces of 1" aluminum flat bar slipped behind the carpet. I used pieces long enough to bend and rest horizontally on the floor foot rest then go up the slope above the carpet. Very sturdy. I put some loop Velcro at the top of the bars, the matching hook Velcro on back of the splitter, and now my splitter stays in place without sagging and without falling off.


STEP 5: Connecting to the built-in USB port
Regarding the dash's built-in USB port (which was the original point of this entire thread), I insert a typical phone charger into one of the always-on sockets. I use the 2019 RAV4 USB cable that I mentioned a few posts earlier in this thread (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001319423923.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27be4c4dqGFJub) along with a USB extension cable to connect to my dash's built-in USB for an always-on USB charging port. Woohoo!

 

OCD. I totally understand. Maybe future Toyotas will have a factory USB-C that we can retrofit, or maybe Meso Customs can make one, which will perpetually never be in stock.

 

I didn't want to start a new thread, and this one seemed most relevant...

Anyone know offhand what single or dual port usb panel mount receptacle fits in the hole in the center console box, and maybe uses the stock wire terminations?

I've got a couple of rechargeable flashlights I'd like to keep topped off. I was surprised to find that outlet is a cigarette-lighter style in my '17. Blech.

 

is Aliexpress the only place to get the cable still?

 

Not to dredge up an old post, but better than creating a new one I suppose. Can anyone confirm that the Ali Express adapter cables mentioned (and linked below) are compatible with a 2022? Also, is the quality decent? Looking to hide my MA-1 and this seems to be a very clean and easy way to accomplish that. Thanks!

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255...tewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255...tewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

 

Unsure of a 2022 if you can take a peak behind your head unit you may be able to verify. I bought both and installed in my 2020 without issue. Have been running Android auto from a relocated port in the center console since my install.

What's an MA-1?

 

Ya, I might just have to pull it all apart to verify, was hoping to avoid that.

The Motorola wireless android auto adapter....

 

Ah, ok. How do you like the wireless Android Auto?

Also, for what it's worth I think I found one of the cables on Amazon a few weeks back. I haven't bought it to confirm its the same but definitely looks to be

Yihao for Axxess Ax-Toyusb (Axtoyusb) for Select Toyota & Lexus OEM USB Retention Adapte

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XKUVJQG/

 

It is nice to have it pop up within a minute of turning the truck on, and it works well for daily back and forth to work and such, the phone gets warm, especially if it is on the wireless charger too. Took a trip from NY to SC and the phone got so hot it started shutting down apps.... so wired seems to be a better solution for long trips.

I have noticed that cable too....it appears to be the same. I think I want to make the port in the dash charge only, so would buy both from Ali anyway...

 

For the radio side it should be correct. It fits my JBL head unit at least. I'm awaiting my order for the usb port side.

I initially ordered a different cable for the usb port side and the connector was different than pictured in the listing. Either I was shipped the incorrect cable or the photos in this listing are just wrong and should be avoided.

 

Reviving an old post here but what exactly does this do? Is it for the existing usb plug to where?

 

It lets you turn the dash port back into a charge port if you can find a way to power it.

 

Did you grind the location to fit the insert?

 

I was looking to do this and came across this thread last week. I didn't want to wait a month to find out if the cable from Ali Express would work, so I decided to do something different. I cut the cable going from the head unit to the USB port. Using a USB pinout diagram, I traced out the wires from the USB back to the cut and found yellow=power, blue=ground, purple=data+, orange=data-. I spliced a 12v-5v step down into the cigarette lighter wiring and one of the USB ends into the original wiring coming from the USB port. This makes it just a charger. I then took a lightning to USB cable, cut the USB end off, and spliced it into the wiring from the head unit, power to power, ground to ground, data+ to data+... I did not take any pictures while doing it, but it works; apple carplay works fine, I do not seem to have any delays on calls, and knowing what the wires are, I can wire any USB port up to the head unit if I wanted. Using the dual step-down, I also have another USB port behind the stereo if needed.