Toyota TRD OEM lift kit

Appears that way. Pretty easy for a tech to accidently knock it out putting in the block or thinking the truck would not require it and took it out.

 

I can't thank you enough for giving me a good starting point. I don't think anything bad will happen in the next week or two before I get this sorted, but I can't have this be a thing I put off. I think what happened was the latter...

 

I've owned three Tacos over the last 22 years with 475,000 miles of use and learned a thing or two..

If I can help others solve problems from my experience, I will.

 

I will defer to people like you who know these things any day. Do you have any recommendations on the best shims for this job? Another member was saying the

$29 Belltech 4973 Pinion Shim Set

Belltech 4973 1* shims worked for him, and there are others as well. You used 3* shims which also worked for you. I guess my question is, what am I looking at for shims and how will various degree shims affect our suspension and who makes the highest quality ones?

I can't thank you enough. I am glad that you mentioned this and went out of your way. I was feeling pretty bummed out until you helped me.

 

There are others that also know quite a bit about Tacos besides myself.

If it was me, I'd ask the dealership to put the shim back in that was left out. They installed your lift kit, warranty it and are responsible for correct installation. You may be able to take a look at a new Taco on their premises or one in for service to show them the shim your truck is missing if they balk at your request. If my memory serves me correct, there is a need for a 1 degree shim for each inch of lift in the back to keep the driveshaft aligned. I believe this issue came up previously in this thread with another owner that was missing the OEM shim after the install process.

 

Oh ok. I appreciate it man. I didn't realize that they need to reuse the shims or use a new 3* one. If memory serves there is a TSB?

Edit: I am looking at the shims that are bolt through, I guess these are preferable to the slots?

 

sorry.. it is 1 degree shim for each 1" lift not 3 degree.. my error..

start with this this post and later posts in this thread to read about the problem previously mentioned

Toyota TRD OEM lift kit

This is the block I have installed on mine along (it also has a 1 degree taper built into it) with the factory OEM shim..

https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/ot...undra-cnc-billet-aluminum-1-rear-lift-blocks/

 

I’m also fighting a vibration issue after having the OEM lift installed. I noticed my OEM shim is missing as well. I experience the vibration only at 55mph. Never when braking or at lower speeds. Any chance not having the shim is related to my vibration?

 

easiest way to determine this is by loading about 250-300 lbs in the bed over the axle and drive it. See if the vibration goes away. If it does then a shim will usually resolve the poor angle generated by the block lift. View this
Toyota TRD OEM lift kit

 

100%

 

They definitely left the factory shim out from the stock configuration, interesting that I am having a heck of a time finding it on the diagrams. It seems the Belltech shim mentioned here is the go to. I see some others, Tom Woods has a 2* set of shims with a 3/8" center bolt and not a U. I am guessing this might make the angles a little too off, and the 1* is the way, but the shim adds a tiny bit of lift and 2* might still be within spec from what little I understand about 4x4 suspension. Honestly I'd rather have a reputable shop install these and pay a few hundred to get it done right and do the ECGS bushing while I'm at it. Again, I can't thank you enough.

PS: I'm going to do the weight test, I have to go get 15 or so bags of soil and manure for our garden, I think that will be a sufficient test to eliminate the causes, lol. I wish there was a way to reciprocate the help you guys give here.

 

Are you sure the MT had the shims from the factory? Mine are also missing on my 22’ MT after the lift was installed by dealer

 

I tried this and it had very little impact on my vibration. If any. I’m still not sure the Duratracs that came on the truck aren’t the problem.

 

No, but the other automatics I crawled under did, and members here say there are factory shims put in place. I imagine they would want to keep the angles similar between the drivetrains.

This is an awful lot of hubbub over a wedge of metal with a hole in it, lol. But it must be done.

 

Thanks man. Is this total lift of rear only, front only, or combined? I think combined is about 1.8", rear is 1 and front is 2. I am assuming a 1-2* shim would work. I think I'm going to do a stainless steel shim first and then bushing. I guess if all else fails, there's driveshafts and other options to get the stuff lined up properly.

 

The front driveshaft leading to the front differential from the gear box has nothing to do with the driveshaft going to the rear diff. They are pretty much independent of each other and each have their own methods to solve or minimize vibrations. Key is to determine where the vibration is occurring so you can resolve it.

If you load the back with weight so it sags about an inch you can replicate stock driveshaft angles and find out if the vibration is eliminated. If so then you need to shim the rear springs/axle.

I used the OEM shim and the block mentioned above (it has the centering pin pressed into it) which provides ~2 degrees total. I have absolutely no vibration.

If you paid the dealership to install the TRD lift kit, I'd go to them armed with knowledge and talk to the service manager and request that they fix it. If they don't want to fix it then you should request the labor charge back. That is what I'd do but everyone is different.

From my experience, after I installed my 6112/5160 suspension, I took it to the dealer and they were not even competent enough to align it properly. I left with my truck and 5 miles later turned around and got my money back. Took it to another company that had some competency and got it done right.

 

I'll follow your lead and goto the dealer first. At least I have some options to stop the vibration before something really bad happens. Thank you so much man.

 

I spoke with a locally respected (and well reviewed here and on social media) off road shop and they said they have the ECGS bushing in stock, if anyone is in middle or east TN and wants it done. I asked them to just diagnose it and try to fix, I will bring it in next Wednesday after going to the dealership this Monday, which I have no hopes for because they said they never heard of any problems with the factory lifts and that these things just happen when you lift a truck. I understand that when you lift trucks that things change, but I guess I should have done more research and not just assumed that TRD factory approved parts can be expected to work as well as stock, lol. I am only going for the off chance it is just something minor like a drum brake being off or something else in their domain. I am 100% sure they didn't torque to spec after checking some lugnuts that are too tight. Interesting that as my tank got the 1/8, I swear the vibrations got more pronounced.

The reason I went with the factory TRD lift is that I thought I wouldn't have any problems. I almost wish I just paid up and went with Fox. Let's see if I can't have this ride like glass once again. I have high hopes for the bushing as a preventative measure/ruling out the problem and a 1-2* steel axle shim to keep the angles within spec.

On the positive it crushed a steep and treacherous mountain road with loose gravel as I went to look at properties, so that's pretty cool.

 

I assume to put the blocks in that they have to loosen the U bolts on the rear axle? Maybe worth checking them? I know when I put my Sumo Springs in that I had to re-torque the U bolts like 3 times (about 100 miles in between) before they held tight. Just throwing things out there...

 

I'll check to see if I can find the torque values for the various bolts. I was reading that for O/R trucks, the joint angle should be between 1.38* and 3.38*, and this is "calculated from propeller shaft angle minus pinion flange angle". I think lug nuts are 83 ft lbs and the 8 u-bolt nuts should be 52 ft-lbs. I'll try to find the shock bolt torque values as well. At least it looks like they put everything on the right way? I'll take a photo of underneath as I think the shocks are corner specific.

Like I mentioned earlier, I could swear that some vibrations increased as my gas got down to just over 1/8 a tank. I'll be filling up today and this along with some bags of manure for the garden might help isolate the vibrations to being from the rear. Yinz guys are the best.