Lugnut bolt snapped

IDK exactly.. I am usually good at torqueing them down to 83. Its possible I messed up. Or it got corroded.

 

Have you checked your other wheels? You don’t want to find out you have this problem out in the middle of nowhere with a flat tire.

 

Don't fret the wheel cylinder, it was already leaking. The outer seal is just a dust boot, the square cut seal that holds in the pressure is inside the bore. They leak all the time

 

Good idea.
I just rotated them 5000 Miles ago when I changed the oil. I will check out the front. Thanks for that.

 

How about bring it to a welding shop and have them tack weld in it two places them try to remove it

 

Its off now.

 

“She’s at work.”

 

Another 2 hour job that takes two weeks. How about a Dremel and undetermined number of cutting wheels?
I've never seen a stripped lug spline. Usually they're hard to get out.

 

I knew someone would come up with that joke.

 

Combine that with anti-seize next time. A lil bit goes a long way. Never broken a stud that I used anti-seize on. Had to replace one that a former owner didn't put anti-seize on my tundra years ago.

 

It was a pain in the ass to the tire off. Between using drill bit a cole chisel and BFH. I got.

 

Damn. This thread reminds me of a "quick job" i did on a friend's bike.

Was supposed to be a routine tire change. 30mins tops, i say. You'll be riding by tonight" i say.

Realized the aftermarket exhaust blocked the rear axle bolt from coming out. Annoying but no worries, just gotta take the pipes off aaaand SNAP....stud breaks off in the head, flush with the surface. Shit.

Ordered a new stud and spent a long time carefully drilling the broken one, making sure not to go too deep or wide, finally got a hole worthy of an extractor.

Get a good bite with the extractor, ease in some torque, getting some movement....SNAP......SHIT. Extractor breaks. Again, just about flush. DAMMIT. Now I have a broken hardened extractor, inside this broken stud, inside this aluminum head.

MANY MANY hours painstakingly dremelling this extractor out of this hole. FINALLY get it out in chunks. Surprisingly not tooooo much collateral damage, maybe a few nicks in the threads but not terrible, I'll just chase it with a tap and finally be done with it. Cool.

Okay now, easy does it...quarter turn, back off, half turn, back off, etc. etc till I'm almost bottomed out.....SNAP. Tap breaks off just above flush, and will not take a weld. ARE YOU SHITTING ME?

Nothing I did would pull this tap out. Tried welding stuff to it, nothing would stick to this cheap ass chinesium tap. Spent literal DAYS hunched over, buried in this tiny crevice in the side of the bike, burning up bit after bit, mining this tap out the aluminum head.

Finally got it out, but by this time I had wallowed out the out the hole so bad I had to re-drill it larger and use helicoil for a slightly smaller stud(still bigger than OEM), because I literally did not have a single extra millimeter to play with; there was JUST enough room for the larger nut between the stud and the header pipe.

I felt super bad, had this dude's bike in my garage for like 2 weeks of our already short riding season. And ended up with what I consider a total hack job to boot. But it's still holding up years later and I guess it's better than having to dismantle the engine and buy a whole new head.

Never buying cheap extractors/taps ever again.

 

Could be time for a new torque wrench.

 

Yes. If you are breaking studs loose or shearing them something is definitely wrong.

 

I meant to ask if the OP ever tried using some penetrating oil first? PB Blaster has worked wonders for me in the past.

 

Man I feel your pain. Sorry your going thru this. This is me on anything I ever do. To top it off it is always the last bolt too. So I am tearing thru a job thinking it will be quick, then last bolt comes and bam-6 hours later….

 

Last September I bought a set of steps for my Tacoma. Total of 12 bolts. 11 went on as they should, but I had to spend 30 minutes getting ONE bolt to start. I thought it was bunged up threads, so I took another bolt out and tried it. Worked fine. The "bunged up" bolt went into the other hole fine. I have no idea what went wrong, but what looked like an easy 45 minute job turned into a PITA.

 

Quick job....lol

 

To recap on the F'ed up weekend I had...
The plan was to do the rear breaks. The truck has 190K miles I figured it was time.
I did manage to get the stripped lug off thanks to some peps on this post..
I didnt think it would be a big deal to do the breaks, I have done most of the work and mods on my truck. Youtube and this site has been a big help. For for some reason rear breaks have always been hard for me.

I knew there was a reason I do not do rear breaks. In the process I pinched the rubber on the cylinder and had to replace it..
Trying to get air out has been a bitch. I bought the pump that Harbor Freight sells but could not bleed the damn breaks. I tried for about 2 hrs. I have used that tool before so I am not sure whats going on. Maybe I fucked something up and I dont know it yet.
When I hit the breaks I can tell the calipers/drum's engage at different times. So, I am taking it to a place on Tuesday so they can fix it...

Life goes on and another lessoned learned.

 

You can do it man. They may just need adjusting and you can have a friend or wife help you bleed the system it’s not too bad sometimes just takes a few times