Oldie2007 - The Little Big Red Readers Digest Renovation, Revival, and Restoration Thread.

Memo to me: I'm just going to make myself one resolution this year. And that is to stop waiting for everything to get done, before I make a project Phase post. I've gotten good at sorting and storing pics, and you all know I take too damn many. But everything seems to "go Columbo" - "just one more thing!" - and then I have even more to sort and get saved in the album.
SO, I'm going to condense my deadlines, and I will go back and fill in as needed, instead of saving it all up and making a huge job out of it.

Little Big Red has FIVE on-going projects right now, and some can be documented enough for practical purposes. This will start "shortly"! So, some things will be "out of order", but, that's how it goes sometimes!

 

Put Some Hitch In That Git-a-long - Phase 40. Or, Son Is Moving Out, and I MAY Need That Trailer Hitch

Ever since I had the rear bumper swapped, I have not had a hitch receiver. Hadn't towed before, and hadn't needed one since. But, always thought I should put SOMETHING back there. Deal is, there is only ONE thing; Will it even work with the DV8 knock off bumper. I bit the bullet. Ordered it unpainted, so at least I would not waste money on the powder coat. Where it sits, primer and paint will last my lifetime.
I took some pics underneath, and tried to match them to the ONE picture in the instructions. Um, nope.




Nothing to do but paint it now, and get Mikkel to help me balance in on the jack while we put it in place, and see what works. Some all in one RustyOleum, and the last of a can of gloss!




When I got the bumper, I flipped the plate to open down, because the plate lights don't even hit it. Well, it has to come off, and go back the other way. I'll have to figure out something to keep enforcement happy. You do have to have them, and working. I got that, for sure!



So, under we go to see what lines up. And, we find where it seems to want the 4 nuts and bolts that were sent, and for the two other holes, I dug out the bag of leftover parts from @BassAckwards and @05prerun82 mod day - which had two of what we needed!




Now, we had to remove the Dad approved spare air connection, and lower the spare about halfway to rotate the actual receiver in. And LOOK where I have to pin it! From UNDERNEATH, yet above the chain plate. It's a pain.




So, we get the plate back to top opening, and fit the hitch.





So, according to AllPro, it's not "rated for towing", but it's installed dang it. And, I have a truck reserved for the move. But I COULD tow a trailer.

But, Wait, There's More! Yep. More.

 

What's THAT Noise? - Phase 41; OR, Grin and Bearings

A couple days after some suspension work you don't know about yet, I was headed to Firestone for some more lifetime align, and install of Brandons' gift of SPC cam bolts. I heard a noise that was like what I thought had been tire noise, but I knew it was not. Check throttle, good OK. Only when rolling, but that's not my Toyos'. On the way home from working on the truck during the weekend, it was upwind against a huge cold front, so I could not hear a thing. Got to Firestone, gave them LBR, and went across the street to Subway. Which had no working internet. Back in Firestone, I started Googling "what do failing bearings sound like?" You might think I would have known, but my only experience is with VIOLENT failure! Didn't take long, first video. That's me.

Sooooo, at home, I decide that front bearing assemblies are the way to go for me, and after going through a bunch, I settled on some Dorman from Amazon, 2 days and they are here.



Passenger side. Googles say I can do this. Maybe I don't need a puller.... Caliper off and hanging. Press off the wheel, and there she blows. Doesn't seem to bad, but what do I know.






OK, break loose the 4 backing bolts, and then some gentle persuasion, and .......IT'S OUT!




Clean out the surfaces, put the old dust cap on the new, add some red loctite, and tighten back up. With a recommended 1/4 turn hammer to finish. I cleaned up the plate, and gave it some spray shine too.






Rotor and caliper back on, and OOOH, jack stand flex!





Thought I'd let you off easy? Sort of. Same stuff for driver side. THAT was where all the noise was, and as soon as I dumped it in the trash, Amazon showed up with my pullers.





And there we have it. Something I've never done before. And I drove far enough to hear the noise gone. But not very far, before something else came up!

But WAIT! There's more!

 

I Waited EIGHT Months For These - Phase 42; OR I STILL Haven't Got A Chance to Appreciate Them!

No kidding. If you're an eagle eyed reader, you have spotted the subject already. Back on April 30, 2021, I ordered these:
https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-...-extended-travel-front-kit-25001-119-ext.html
https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-...-body-emulsion-8-inch-travel-pr2008-ssnr.html
And, a few months later, closer to when I thought they would arrive;
https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-...ner-4wd-uniball-upper-control-arms-96504.html

Based on conversations with my friend @hoverlover (who we hardly see around anymore, darn it), with all the weight of the bumpers, winch, and everything I keep in the back - and MOSTLY MY DESIRE FOR A DAMN SMOOTH RIDE - I bit this bullet with the expectation that I could buy once, and be happy. It's taken a long time to get this far.

The UCA came within 4 days of ordering! The shocks, the Monday after Thanksgiving! Just after I bought the generator, so I had a huge stack of cardboard boxes I let Rex guard for me!




I unpacked the UCAs, and made sure I had everything. And the shocks only enough to see how much foam packing King uses! The rears were invisible in the box. So, I left things packed until I knew install was coming up. Obviously, I'm going to need help on the front for sure.




And lucky for me, our SA bunch is looking to have a mod-day/brewery meet day at @SCOTT'S TACO LOCO garage in mid-December. So, I commenced to breaking it all down, and packing it up. I got the shocks, UCAs, my old eFan going to @Lucario Runner , and 3 U-Joints and a carrier bearing. I seem to be the only truck getting anything, so I brought everything, and we'll do whatever. Packed up some brews, and picked up some tacos for breakfast, and off we go!






I got there, Scott and @Slimwood Shady (Linwood) were already there, and over tacos and coffee, @Lucario Runner (Robert) showed up. They determined that the front it is, and so all the shocks and UCA's were laid out. And we (they) began. I offer my usual talent of fetching and handing stuff. And the weather that was expected finally hit. It rained. A LOT. Then the wind came up, and the temperature dropped. A LOT. Then, we lost power for about 45 minutes. And it rained some more. But on we went~!







And the first UCA is gone. A little more prep, and the TC UCA goes in. So far, so good.




And the first shock assembly goes in without a lot of issue!






And we hit our first major issue. The front nut on the stabilizer bar has come "unwelded". This chewed up a bunch of time over the morning, as we tried darn near everything to make it work. The resi bracket actually fastens there now. In the end, it got strapped in just to hold it. But we kept going back to it, chewing up time.





So, on to the other side. Linwood finds evidence that LBR may well have had another set of UCAs at some point in the past. Could be. I only have the maintenance records, but I have found other things that let me believe that it had some off road abuse that isn't written.






And a new UCA and shock go in on the passenger side.



And, back to the sway bar. Mark @LostHusker has joined us. And the sway bar bolts draw a crowd, as there is a slight mis-match in lining things up. It gets done, and the resi's get mounted.







And, there we have it. And it's cold, and no one else is coming, so we blow off the brewery, and drink my beers. And the guys say, "do the back"!




And that, is a hard stop. The rear smoothies are eyelet mount top and bottom, and I need a stem at the top. So, it goes back together, and there will be a Part II to this story!



And thanks again for everything guys. This one is (again), not something I should have done on my own.
But, WAIT! There's more. Of course there is. Part II.

 

Awesome Kurt I’m glad to see you still chugging along with LBR very nice setup.

 

I Waited EIGHT Months For These - Phase 42; OR I STILL Haven't Got A Chance to Appreciate Them!

PART II.

So, it's not like the aftermarket doesn't use "generic" pics of products, and it's not like I didn't spell out what I was doing to what vehicle I was working on, and it's not like I didn't ask "do I need anything else". Anyway, the options I understood were a return, buy something else, or there is an adapter for a stem mount. I ask Down South guy, he say adapter. Amazon has his suggested one.

PRO COMP SUS Explorer Pro Comp 690001 Stem Mount to Eyelet Shock Adapter

Amazon.com: Explorer Pro Comp 690001 Stem Mount to Eyelet Shock Adapter : Automotive
So, it gets ordered. It doesn't seem like it will be sturdy.

I had booked an alignment before the work, so off I go to Firestone. And I paid some labor to have the SPC Cam bolts installed. Old ones were still good, per the tech.






Aside from the front bearing problem I identified at the time, alignment feels better than ever. The TC UCAs allow things to fall back in place better than stock with the lift. So, the adapters come, and I no longer think they are weenie - about 5 lbs. each.



OK, out with the old (again).





So, let's get this new stuff all prepped up for install! I'm excited - something I can probably do without issues!



Well, a little issue. I have to open up the shoulder bracket a little to fit the bushings in the rubber insulators between. Not too much.




So, test hang, and I know I have to re-open up the bottom mount. Turns out I can't open it enough. Because all they sent with the shock were 2 1/2" metal bushings per shock. That's a minimum 1/4" too wide to fit that bracket, no matter what. I'm not liking this. Went to Ace, and my only options were all the 1/8" thick machine bushings they had.





Ok, bought bushings aren't enough to hold the eyelet, provided bushings are too much. I have only one solution, and that is to cut and clean the provided bushings, put the good side to the middle, and put the bought bushings to the outside to fill. This is not my vision of mounting some dang expensive shocks.





So now, I put that bare metal shoulder up into the tower, and install away. I tightened the crap out of that top bolt. You can't fit a torque wrench or socket. I used a pry bar to block the bracket, and could NOT move the bracket.




Repeated for both sides (lots more pics, but they look the same), got wheels on and went around the block.



Lots of clunks and rattles back there. Rechecked all the shock nuts and bolts when I got home. Not loose. Now, we had lowered the spare part way on the hitch receiver install, wasn't all the way back. That didn't fix it. I had emptied the Dekked system. Padded the top of the drawer. Not it. Filled the Dekked back up. Not it. Removed the rear shackles. Not it.

I'm out of steam tonight. But wait! There's morezzzzzz
Coming soon....PART III.

 

I Waited EIGHT Months For These - Phase 42; OR I STILL Haven't Got A Chance to Appreciate Them!

PART III.

Well, we left a rattling and clunking LBR in the drive, when I left off. I had exhausted everything that was in the back - except the shocks and mounting. I determined that I was going to get some insulation on the top of that adapter, under the mount. So, I ordered these:

Universal Shock Stem Washers and Isolators Suit for ID 9/16" or M14 Stem Bushing Top.Shock Bushing,sway bar Links Bushing

Amazon.com: Universal Shock Stem Washers and Isolators Suit for ID 9/16" or M14 Stem Bushing Top. : Automotive

And I went back to Down South to see about the bottom bushings that came with the shocks, because even though I used what was provided, there are no instructions, and it seemed that I at least should have gotten the same bushing and insulator as was on top.

"The shocks you purchased were a universal fit; they are not model specific for your Tacoma so fitting them to your application would be up to you or the installer. Being universal fit like most off road shock manufacturers they are designed for a use with standard 1/2" through bolt. Since they are not model specific King (or Fox, Bilstein ETC..) would not offer any install instruction because of the universal design.
When you ordered them from us we had the internal valving of the shock setup for a Tacoma but again fitting them is the responsibility of the end user."

Well, I am still a little disappointed about that. After four emails, I successfully begged a set of 3/8" wide bearings and the biscuits from them.

While I was waiting, I also ordered a nice little puck for the floor jack, and some taller (higher rated too) jack stands. The puck came early, the stands came when I got done! This to avoid the 4x4 pieces I had been using, and feel a little safer.




Things arrive. I go back to work. I was right about the source of the problem. Square peg...



round hole.



And nothing to prevent metal on metal speaking out about it. Although the passenger side was still so tight, it took a breaker bar and hammer to loosen the top nut, the whole assembly could be rotated once the weight of the truck was off it. (not a movie - imagine no resistance between the two shots)




So, off they both came (takes me far longer to mess with the wheels than anything), and both got the same treatment. My cut up metal bushings (provided w/shocks) and the shims came out of the bottom, replaced with the metal bushing in the rubber insulator I begged Down South for. On the top, I had to drill out the new shock washer (9/16" biggest I could find), and a little of the biscuit. Then the top would either get another biscuit, or a thick neoprene rubber washer (or 3) under the washer and nut.




And, I reversed the adapter bolt on the passenger side from what I had.




And now, there is some insulation on the shock tower to the mount;



The shoulder of the adapter has the nice bushings that came with it


And even though the bolt doesn't show through - it IS in the nylon of the nylock nut.



(EDIT) I have since removed the washer per someone's recommendations.... both sides marked as best I can as well.



And the bottom on both sides, looks a lot more like what I thought it should like.



And it's all back together and on the ground again.



So, did I fix it?



Well, a little test drive around the block, and all the noises HAVE DEPARTED! Remember this - all right turns except out of the driveway. A longer test drive will come tomorrow. Will I finally get a chance to appreciate all this?

But WAIT, there's more. Oh, a lot of more.

 

The Worst Test Drive of My Life - Phase 43; OR - This Was NOT In My Plan!

Well, what happened was the test drive didn't go very far, or very well. Second left turn about 1/2 mile from the house, on 142 - hard thump rattle, and I pull over and stop. I see lug nuts all over the road.




I walked home, and put the floor jack and such in the RAV. Might as well make it easy as I can. Lifting it up, I see at least 2 sheared studs, and one bent one. Not putting this wheel back on. Call my friend who does wrecker, but not in the shop, so I go over to the shop and get set up for a tow.





It made it about halfway before it fell off the wheel. So, he babied it into the drive way, and we used my floor jack to minimize the dragging.




Moving on to seeing what happened....





My feeling is that I did my final tighten sequence with the tire partly on the ground, and that gave me the impression I had it on and tight. I need to get me some lighter wheels and tires, because, honestly, they are a pain for me. So, they were probably tight, but not ON.
PITA to get the drum off the bent one.




Then again, could have been that rubber washer.....



I have new studs (took 3 auto supply stores...), and I have banged old ones loose. Should have waited for that, but no big deal. Put it all on jacks, and in Neutral so I could rotate. You can only remove and install the studs at the 8 o'clock position I find out. I taped up those still in just to hold them a little while I worked. First 2 naturally fell into the brake.




So, a little grease on the shoulders, anti-sieze on the threads. A puller nut, and a bearing nut. Off I go. Never done this before, either.





And there we have it. Inspect the back for seating, and the backing plate is consistent.



Drum back on, and I am done for the day. It's so 100% humid, the tools in the garage are wet when I use them.



Some ugly studs, the nut I used to install - minus it's shoulder, and two lug nuts that are not going to make a recovery.




So, the sun is out this Sunday, it's not wet, and time to put the wheel back on. My new Dorman lugs arrived. Think I'm going to check it a few times? Uh....yeah. Steps added to my procedure! Because I KNOW what I did wrong to cause all this problem. Yes, my fault.
Impact has three settings, and I use them all.









1. wheel on enough to see threads
2. Hand thread only, rock to engage
3. ensure wheel is off the ground. Pass 1x4 underneath
4. impact setting 1 to pull threads. Rock wheel to seat.
5. impact setting 2 to fully seat the wheel. Kick the wheel, ensuring it doesn't rock
6. impact setting 3 to torque. Grab the wheel
7. manual wrench of some sort to verify.
8. have an impartial observer check.
9. set it back on ground, and manually check again.



You can be sure that if I do another mount by myself, this is what I will be doing. Test drive? ARE YOU KIDDING? I DON'T WANT TO DIE! OK, I moved the truck, NOTHING FELL OFF, it's near sunset and blowing cold. I can wait.

And for more NORMAL stuff, but wait, there's more!

 

What? I left off here? I thought I was further....
Here I goes again.

Wheels Go Round and Round - Phase 44; Until They Don't!

Come January, and it's time for a Discount Tire free rotate and balance. What could go wrong with that? I had almost forgotten about...



The guys brought it in - "Sir, we can't mount this back on". Sure you can... I'll OK it.



"Sir, we're not going to put this on; it's damaged. We'll mount your spare" No, different size. I'll wait until I can get 4 new ones.
"Well, we have a sale. 50% off the first one, and these are all 30% off on sale." Do you HAVE them in my size? "Yes" OK, DO IT.




"They are actually an inch wider than yours with a little more offset, so the tires will widen up a little. Should look good, and we won't charge for the install". OK, there I shopped for new wheels, and made up my mind!










And, how do we look? I actually like it. Money well spent, less than I would have paid if I kept shopping myself (I'd have wasted stupid money), a little more tread on the ground.






Now I gotta go get LBR out for some new pics! BUT WAIT! There's more!

 

Let There Be Light - Phase 45; Or, More Of It Anyway!

This actually started before the front shocks, and got interrupted along the way. This and the shocks are why I said I need to just start a photo project, and fill it in as I go! Anyway....

This started as ONE thing, of course. I was going to get better headlight lamps, and the Ultimate Headlight harness. Because that kit is very well priced for the quality parts. I can wire, but they have all the best parts anyway. Wiring (headlightservices.com) I ordered it to give me a Christmas present, but I ran out of things to do.

Before I can even get the harness in my hands, I'm sitting in the cab, and half of the temp control isn't lit.



So, I got to looking up replacements, and I brilliantly decide that some little yellow LED will be a great replacement. After all, those old incandescent only lasted, what, 15 years?





Well, those are wimpy AF, and I didn't need yellow, so I ordered some white LED, AND some regular because they weren't much. ON to the headlights! I had also purchased some Philips bulbs that were supposed to be better than the Gold Sylvania I had.






Shoot, might not need the harness! But, let's not let any work go unpunished. Working on the passenger side lamp, the plastic mounting brackets broke. What is it with 15 year old stuff anyway? I found a reasonable replacement at CarParts.com






Hey the replacement Incandescents for the temp control came! Let's do that before the harness! Good for now.



So, the Ultimate harness! Do you remember I made a bracket with 2 extra holes for just this reason? I do. After all that time, I had to clear a bunch of wires out of the way. It really goes in easily - and the hardest thing is probably dealing with the "extra wire".







So, there we go...right? Of course not. I find the passenger side getting more and more condensation! So, I have to pull it, and see if I can seal it up, after I dry it out.




(That hard to get to bolt? At the bottom!)



Meanwhile, I'm getting used to this look. And the little LEDs for the temp control came - can't resist. Had to rasp the hole a little, but I like!




OK, pass assembly is dry and shiny, put things back together again.




All righty then - will I be WOW when I light up the garage again?



Meh - how can I tell? I'll really have to go for a drive. I will know better on the road. And guess what came now? My Diode Dynamics SSD3 Yellows. I've forgotten if MAX or PRO, but 15% off Black Friday. Merry Christmas to me. And off will come the DOT white fogs. And speaking of fog....




Obviously, didn't seal it right. Order some new ones, because I didn't find anything I like better. Cost a few buck more these days too.
So, onward through the fog!










So, after a couple days, the new headlights are in from Amazon. So impatient for a guy that waited 8 months for his shocks! I very carefully sealed both out of the box. Just because.




Go to let them dry, and it gets cold for a few days. Off comes the grille again (getting quicker!), and out come the old ones.






And are you kidding me? My homemade DRL have come out of the epoxy!! I want to change them up a little. But they are rigid straight, and the grille is curved. I make it a little different.






And what was I doing when I started anyway? Who knows? And to THIS very day, I have not driven the truck after dark! Sheesh.
But wait, there's more!

 

The Search for A Stubby - Phase 46; or Video Killed the Radio Star

Is THAT why good stubbies are hard to find? When I first got LBR, it had no antenna. I thought a little stubby would be cool. It didn't work well for me, but that was with the original radio, so hard to tell if it was good. I traded @MattCowsmasher for something. Did it work Matt?



I recently decided I would try another one. I spent a little more monies on it, and was hoping it would work, because it was color matched!



It got ZERO reception. I returned it, and decided ONE MORE TIME! I want short and flexy for car wash more than anything.

Well, after lengthy scientierrific evaluation this morning, tests of yet another "stubby" vs. OEM antenna are in! You were waiting, right? If you want a flexible, stubby for whatever reason, you know most are terrible. I had one more I was going to try, before I just cut my OEM down to a lower height. So, in the driveway; apples to apples.
I walked through the channel scan, logging everything that provided an identifiable radio signal. My radio is an HD radio, and I don't NOT even have AM.
(42) stations total on the FM band. I rated them as follows.
(2) Spanish language which don't help me at all....
(14) Weak signal; you might listen to the channel in passing, but you would never bother with a preset. Of these, STUBBY ignored all. No reception.
(16) Good signal; broadcast is clear and identifiable, minor interference heard. Of these STUBBY ignored (4), and picked up (12) same as OEM.
(10) Strong signal; powerful sound, instant ID, no interference. Of these, STUBBY got all (10).

So, of (26) channels good enough to put a preset on, STUBBY got (22) equal or better than OEM. This does not judge moving vehicle, which effects any antenna.
I have (15) presets available, and I used up (10) on anything I would "possibly" listen to if my satellite failed, or I wanted so local info. So, STUBBY stays on the truck. What is it?




$25 AntennaMastsRus - The Original 6 3/4" Antenna fits Toyota Tacoma (1995-2015) - USA Stainless Steel Threading - Car Wash Proof - Internal Copper Coil - Premium Reception
Amazon.com: AntennaMastsRus - The Original 6 3/4 Inch Antenna fits Toyota Tacoma (1995-2015) - USA Stainless Steel Threading - Car Wash Proof - Internal Copper Coil - Premium Reception : Automotive

Now, mine didn't come with instructions (you don't need), or the extra hardware screws (I didn't need). No matter. The little mark identifies it as exactly the same as this, who I believe actually manufactures it. They might even be the same company; along with "the Antenna Source.com" - all in Wisconsin.





$30 VOTEX - The Original 6 3/4" - Car Wash Proof Short EPDM Rubber Antenna - USA Stainless Steel Threading - Powerful Internal Copper Coil/Premium Reception
Amazon.com: VOTEX - The Original 6 3/4 Inch - Car Wash Proof Short EPDM Rubber Antenna - USA Stainless Steel Threading - Powerful Internal Copper Coil/Premium Reception : Electronics






But wait, there's more!

 

It works In town once I leave city limit sign it’s all static. I use internet radio now I hate commercials.

 

Sirius XM FTW. Was funny, during my testing, EVERY station was actually playing music. That would never happen if I was moving....

 

"Please Don't Modify the RAV4" or The RAV Gets a Chapter Too!

ANNUAL MAP UPDATE. YOU CAN'T HAVE IT.

Despite what the salesman said. (Which is worth nothing.) Despite what the manual says:
1 Select on the map
screen. (P.72)
2 Select “Map Data”.
3 Check that the map data
screen is displayed.

• Map version
• Select to display map coverage
• areas.
• Select to display legal information.
• Select to update map.

●For map data updates, contact
your Toyota dealer.
So, I see if I can download new maps on-line in my driveway.




So, one contacts the dealers..."Need a new DVD" - there's no DVD unit in this car. Manual says it's an on-line update.
"Needs a new SD Map Card" - there is no SD slot. Manual says it's an on-line update
"You probably need a new CD disc" - there is no CD in this car. Manual says it's an on-line update.
So, one contacts Toyota Customer Service national line. Yes, it's an on-line update, and only certain dealerships offer it. $185, and maps update in November annually.
So, one contacts the AutoNation South, because I will no longer give San Marcos a penny. "Well, I'm not sure how long that might take, so can you leave the car a couple days?" So, you're the Service Writer who doesn't know how it's done, and you can't seem to look it up?
OK, better solution.



Less than the cost of one map update, free updates for life, simple, reliable, easy to operate (same as the smaller one in the truck). Wire is hidden up in the liner gasket, as is the cameras. Because they don't put a wealth of 12V in convenient places in the RAV, I will need to run a tap, and make it "wife approved". Nothing would stick to the side of the console, so finally - two small screws (don't tell). The one loose wire is for a Vape.





WHY DIDN'T THEY PROVIDE ILLUMINATED WINDOW SWITCHES? IT'S DARK EVEN WHEN YOU OPEN THE DOOR.

Apparently, I'm not the only one bugged by this. While I was sitting in AutoNation waiting on the last Toyota care service, I googled it. Within minutes, I was trained in this operation, and ready to order when I got home. It takes a couple weeks because most all of them come from China. Various people had used various versions, and none reported a problem with any of them. Toyota DOES make them, but they cost quite a bit more. Everything I saw, and what I got, was plug and play.

Dark




Use a little plastic trim tool, pry up the back of all the switch plates - they hinge at the front. Only on the driver pod do you need to remove and replace three screws that hold the switches in place. All the singles come with a little prewired adapter harness, that only goes in one way. My pic was no good. The single switches are in a clip holder - carefully open up the back, then rock forward from the middle. There are SEVERAL good YT videos of this whole thing.







And, a half hour or a beer or so, and you get this:




Totally worth it, and so subtle, no one has noticed yet! And I ain't talking until I have to.

MORE THAN LIKELY, THE LAST MOD THE RAV WILL EVER SEE. So, DON'T wait - no more!

 

Love this build, Slowly but surely you are getting it done.

 

OK, best get busy. Started this once, could not find photos. Got 'em now, and LBR has two in the wings....

Darth Previous Gets a Chapter, Because the Previous is Gone

This is the Previous. 2005 probably base model. My sons first used car, and it was the only reason I got him to take drivers ed! It was a good car. We did stuff to it, kept it going, had fun with it. Lasted through 4 years of college to, even though I drove it most of those years.



After college, at Missouri for grad school, the brake computer went out. Replacement was more than the value of the car. He walked the lot at Machens (a dealer that treated him great), and found Darth. On the dark side we go. 2012 Two, with way more options. Originally sold at that dealership. We know that someone backed into a creek, but that's another story.




We've worked on this on a little, but he avoided anything major, doing a good job on getting it to local dealerships for scheduled maintenance. Living at home, he had a 100 mile a day commute, and few off days. But he called from San Marcos a bit ago, and the valance panel we had taped up previously. He came over, and we tore it off, and I ordered what I hoped was the right part.



Well, it was. And the first thing we discovered was that of the five forward mounting points, we had like 1 1/2 left. OK, we'll make some. I got aluminum plate!





And we marked and fit, and we got it down with every needed fastener!






And another little thing that reminds us we can do stuff together!

 

Why Won't You Buy My White Fog Lights for $20? Phase 47, or Look What You Made Me Do!




I mean really! Offered up for $20, cost now $105. SAE/DOT labelled white cut-off fogs. So, what the hell. I look and see I have some bolts on the bumper, and I can use them as mounts. I know there are a couple plugs already wired; I'll just check which switch they might be on, and wire it up to my DRL circuit! Simple! Fast! BS!





Well, my plugs don't work. And most of the forward lights don't work, and my front cam doesn't either (which is always flaky). WTH. I pull on the common grounds for a lot of the stuff, and two of the wires disintegrate in my hands! I went down about 8" in the wires, and it got no better. So, I figure I got to splice some better wire in and clean up the ground. And, go through the harness wire to see what's bad.





I'm not a happy camper. I get to the relay for my fog lights (which has been there), and the mess I found included one or more splices I didn't make on every wire! The AC guy did it, searching for the "problem" that caused the AC repair not to work. I buried it when I did the Ultimate Headlight harness, but I had no IDEA what he did.



In trying to trace back the splices, and finding more junkyard wire in the harnesses, I realize I am going to strip it all out, and do it again! And this time, I am going to make a connection panel, and get rid of the butt connectors my relay panel came with. Nothing wrong with it, but it's had a lot more fussing with wires than butt connectors were ever intended for. And every connection will be shrink soldered. SO, I made myself some new panels for the terminals, and the fuse holders (stereo, breaker for panel). I even got fancy edging!







And ONE by FREAKING ONE, I put new wiring to all the circuits up front, and rewired the cam too.








Yeah, they all work now. All this, to tie those Fogs/Driving lights into the DRL circuit, because no one would buy them, and I wouldn't throw them out!
But WAIT, there's more! Oh, so much more!

 

Happy 15'th Birthday LBR! Phase 48, Part the First...The Stripper
(Three parts because there are a lot of pictures to suffer through).

Last fall, I noticed the drivers seat fabric getting very thin in a couple spots. Could barely see the pattern. And it all looks old, which makes me unhappy after all this other work. So, I made up my mind; researched seat covers, settled on Clazzio's, and requested a sample. Also, started looking into what it would take to replace the interior carpet. On the passenger side, it looked like long ago, the AC drain was blocked, and there was a rusty spot. Every attempt to steam clean it, just spread it further. And the fabric panel on the doors? All dirty and not coming clean either.




So, I request my Clazzio sample card, and it comes promptly - and the results surprise the heck out of me. My Toyota taupe color (Taupe = a greyish brown) pairs far better with a light grey, than it does any light tan or brown! I am shocked, and it does explain why my tan mats never looked right.





And, I bite the bullet, place my custom order, and it will be here "no sooner than 8 weeks, probably longer". I've gotten pretty good at this waiting thing, so I'm more patient about ordering the other stuff. Except some black floor mats - give me a little inspiration to see what it will look like. I have many photos I took to show AutoAnything that their "custom fit for your truck" mats did not come close. Not even. Found out along that way I had the same problem before with them, but since I returned the items; they deleted all the records of it! Now, I like AutoAnything in general - but DO NOT ORDER THEIR CUSTOM FIT MATS.

Fast forward now to mid-March, and I'm happy to greet my new box of excitement!



I set about ordering the other items I need, and they all arrive within a week! I got the new flooring, with what they call "mass backing", in 6 days! 05-15 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Carpet 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 (stockinteriors.com) New mats come from a Toyota dealer on Ebay, and door inserts from China on Ebay. But, I don't get a chance to do anything but inspect stuff until late April.



So, off I go! I am glad I spent some of that waiting time cleaning and organizing the garage! I'm going to strip virtually everything off the floor, except for the wires, and the sub box on the back shelf. Let's take a last look around; I'm not going to miss it - I hope!













One of the first things to do is unpack the flooring, which they want to lay out and try to get its molded shape back. It doesn't seem as "molded" with that mass backing! And I didn't expect underlayment too, but it was included.




One of the smartest things I've done recently, was to clean and repurpose a couple parts bins, and mounted them over my workbench. If I am diligent, they provide a great way to sort and mark parts as they are used for a project. And they did a GREAT job!



First out was the console. Then the seats. Again, I seem really smart as the counter where all the rear stuff went was covered with crap a week before I cleaned it all up!







Then the stereo amps come out. Yes, I measured where they would need to go back in. Yes, I took pictures of every input and output - and the cap - to make sure I put it back in properly.






And, last thing to go is the carpet! Now, no one mentioned these foam blocks I found gorilla glued to the back. I managed to save all but one small one. And, no one mentions the trim pieces along the door sills, that the carpet has been stapled to! But I got them out too, and marked.







And that's it - out and upside down. And inside, we have nothing.





But WAIT! There's more to this story!

 

Happy 15'th Birthday LBR! Phase 48, Part the Second...The Carpet
(Three parts because there are a lot of pictures to suffer through).

OK, stripped, and ready for work. Well, I had to store it overnight - it almost fit. And, I would not have had to search if the boys were still small. And you need a carpet razor, and new blades - which I found in organizing the tool boxes the week before!





And what did I get in all that cleaning? An old pen, screw driver bit, and 7 dirty cents. And I found this ancient "ground". I don't think the AC guy did this too, but a previous owner. It doesn't leak, don't tempt fate - primer it and cover with new, thick carpet!





So, we start anew with the foam blocks from the old carpet. A little double sided Gorilla tape. Then, match the underlayment to the upside down old carpet.






Here is a MAJOR NOTE if you are interested. Mass Backed is pretty thick and heavy - 50+ lbs. compared to the 5 lbs of the old. If you DON'T order Mass Backed, you can do the sound deadener, and the molding will be sharper, and "easier" to deal with. I didn't want to mess with the sticky stuff, so I went with the backing. Here's some comparison.





Alright, instructions say to lay the old carpet over the new as a template. Well, with the well molded old having a LOT more definition than the Mass Backed new - that's going to have to be a guideline. I cut the old one into back, left, and right. And started by marking only in the back.






So, I am going to start from the back, and hopefully, I can hide my learning curve! Fit it in, adjust around, use the old as a template, and slowly make the surgery! This stuff is very thick, and I already know I am not going to worry a lot about the far back corners. It will go under the sub cabinet though.








OK, putting the bin back in convinces me to try follow this as much as I can. Get it formed in place best I can, and make SMALL cuts based on the template - because it just doesn't lay perfectly. I have as much luck making a mark, then lifting and feeling underneath. On down the sides!






Along with the "trim it yourself", the car mat hold downs are not there. Some careful marking, a 30+ year old grommet maker, and I'm still in business.





Now, am I confident enough to trim the side? Not much choice at this point, huh? So, I do. I put those white trim edges back down where they belong. I bought some adhesive, but didn't use it. The sill plates holds it down well enough for now, and I will wait and see before anything that permanent.








On to the console and the front fit. Unfortunately, there isn't anything for under the dash as far as photos. Black in the dark.... CONSOLE WARNING: TAKE AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE TO OPEN IT UP, AND TEST FIT THE CENTER SECTION. Wish I had, but it's all good.




And that's it! Exploratory cuts are made for the seats and wires, but won't be final until I get there. Putting the stereo back in will complete the floor. Using my pics, I did discover that I had ONE sub out of phase. Thanks pix! Now, I have even more bass. Enough to make those horrible sounds I promise never to do! Yes, I temp connected the battery and verified ALL the wiring before moving on!







Some trimming was required!



But wait, there's more. Of course there's more, this was Part II.

 

Happy 15'th Birthday LBR! Phase 48, Part the Third...The Finale
(Three parts because there are a lot of pictures to suffer through).

So, here we go! The whole, real reason I started this in the first place. Light grey Leather insert, black vinyl wrap, red stitching. I'm starting in the back, because they seem easiest! And they do prove to be the snug fit predicted! Again, I will learn as I go...



I learn I will save the black plastic hinge covers from the rear, because the wrap covers them.




Second cushion - I am liking this! Bottom cushions, and I watch the trim turn grey(er) before my eyes. It IS the right choice, and far as I'm concerned.







OK, the fronts are a little more complicated. I started one day, had a problem, had a dream, and came back the next day. I'll combine the thoughts! The strings at the bottom of each seat are similar, in that they have to go through the hinge area. I found a hole to use, then added a grommet to protect it. And it's easier to work with if you pull the plastic sides off somewhat - and there is ONE screw on each seat. Clip old clips, use new ones.








They suggest having a friend hold up the back of a normal seat; my friend was duct tape. I sat it in the sun to stretch the cover while I did the passenger side. If it was lumpy, I'd try something else. It wasn't. The passenger is a fold down type seat. I had never folded it down until today! These seat covers will require the use of some firm trim tools. Not hard, but things slowly stretch into place.








In between little breaks, I decided the rear seat rail covers needed to be black. Because. Back rails are on riser pucks, and this will just make them "disappear".



Oh, that other problem? Could not fasten the front seat bolt! A little light on the matter shows me that the tack welded nut is now gone. Wonderful. Fortunately, I have a tool I bought for another reason, and put it to use. Different thread pitch, but will function just fine.






Cooking with gas! Let's put in those mat clips, and get out one of the mats for more enthusiasm!




Now, I know it's not a TRD OR. I like the red logo. And when I ordered the BLACK mats, from a Toyota dealer, I got told that the "black mats" for those years were only for TRD, and really charcoal. I could return them if I wanted nothing. Given my luck with mats, I'm running with it. They look nice. Let's go round and see!





All right, seats are all in. Let's see what we got!





Oh, HEY! The console. I have to put the console in!





Oh, and one more thing! The door panels. "It easy. You just use our tools you like, and tuck it in. Use some our tape too!" Uh....





Now, I have thanked Ghost Ship on 4 other threads, so I won't make him read this one too. Literally the only place on Google that addressed this topic was on a TW thread. Go figure. So, you have to pull off the door panels. You all know how that's done.




Heat staked. So, nothing is "tucking" into that. I used a 7/16" spade bit, CAREFULLY, and a trim tool to pry. Not all the heat stakes are straight, so one or more will bork. Just have to be careful to only take enough of the top off. Changing color is a clue when it's ready to pop.





Just got to be VERY careful. Roll smooth and fasten a few as you go. I used mostly #8, 1/2" and 3/4" as needed. I did have to use some #6, but that is the most that the old stake will hold. I had punch through dimples - even with the 1/2". I didn't break it, but it left a tiny mark. I will have to live with it. Smooth as you go, slow and careful....






Repeat 3 more times, and I can take a final tour!
But NOT on this post! But wait, just one more time!