Taco'd Wheel Ontario Bike Shop (BS talk)

Because i'd rather make this thread than join MavrickWorld.Ford and because gas prices to drive up to the trails is less expensive than dropping $3k on a bicycle to do the same thing.

TWO-BS CHAT



The above image is what the bike will look like in a week since it was rejected for repairs.

Been looking at the Marlin4/ Marlin5 - however availability apparently went right to hell due to the apocalypse.

But yeah question is since i stand at 6'2" i'd be fitted for an XL Bike frame;
If i can't find an XL, how "bad" is it to go to a L frame over the XL?

Don't feel like waiting a year and i believe there is a L frame in a shop but i'd still need to confirm that.

 

Tag peeps
@tacoma16
@Saturnine
@TacoRocco
@philth
@somebody
@oostroma
@Pure_Life

 

Large vs xl and what not all comes down to preference. Sure you are “fitted” but some like bigger and some like smaller.

Just what is comfortable for you. I think I have a large. More then welcome to come try it. It’s a fat bike though so geometry may be different.

I also don’t know close to anything about bikes. Not as deep into it as I am into trucks so take everything I say as if I was a politician. Could be wrong

 

Regarding your bike sizing, don't get hung up on the listed size. Brand to brand you could be a L or XL. The reach measure on the geometry charts is going to be the best number to compare fits. The height of the frame is irrelevant. Keep in mind new geometries will have longer reaches as the stems are shorter and seat tube angles are steeper.

 

Wouldn't mind trying out the fat bike since @Saturnine mentioned what they're like.
I can't say i would know size preference since 2 of my most used bikes i've ever had was oversized then i outgrew.

It's one thing to prefer a size, but i also think it's another thing being sized correctly. Like wearing a new shoe that's too small or something.

 

I figured that to be the case and that's why i'm asking about it. seems like for this specific (Trek Marlin 5) example either or would be fine as at the 6'2" mark i fit in both.

 

If I could go back I would get a 27+ sized bike. So much more versatile. Can be ridden in the winter too. Don’t think I knew about them at the time. Parts are a bit cheaper too compared to fat tired bikes.

 

27 referring to rim/ tire size?
I've only ever ridden cheap bikes, and never cared for name sizing. if it moved, it was good.

 

It’s a 27” rim but accepts a fatter tire. Believe it’s 2.75”-3”.

Again, my knowledge is shit, but from what I have seen and felt riding @Norilsk bike with the 27+, it was a good in between.

 

Looking at the spec between the marlin 4 and 5, I highly recommend the 5. The drivetrain and brakes will be much better. The drivetrain goes up top an 8 speed which is still old but is a more "standard" line of Shimano being HG (huperglide). At this level of compinents the better shimano crankset will also be much better/ stronger than on the 4.The brakes being hydraulic will be much more consistent, powerful and less maintenance.

If you could push your budget a bit more to the 6, the drivetrain becomes much much much more modern by about 20 years and you will be on a 1x10 system. This system will hold the chain much better (no front derailleur) and shift better. You also go up to a crankset that has easily replaceable chainring if it wears out or gets damaged. The Deore level of components on this will be the best value for money. Deore in shimanos product lineup is at the inflection point of diminishing returns. Going up more levels in the shimano line up form here mostly brings incremental weight improvements and minor features.

 

If you "fit" both by their sizing chart i would highly recommend test riding at a shop. Thre is a large component of fit that comes down to comfort/preference. If you are short legs, long torso and big ape factor the bigger size will probably be more comfortable and vice a versa. I fall between S and M for most bikes and typically size down to get better frame clearances and shorter wheelbase for handling.

 

That’s what I got @Shveet

I ride it full year round, snow, mud, downhill, city, XC etc… it did get fully rebuilt after 2.5 years… but that’s just my style of riding…
https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/...trail-mountain-bikes/roscoe/roscoe-6/p/33192/

 

Subbed for this insanity

 

If anyone is looking at building a badass all round trail/downcountry hardtail this year my buddy is selling a brand new Canefield Nimble 9 frame in chrome, size M.

 

Yeah i was leaning Marlin 5 over the 4 but mostly disregarded the 6 and another above that as it's falling out of my price range. Can i justify it? sure but thinking is the $200 more for the 6 over the 5 wroth it?

remember i'm coming from a CCM Apex, the M5 is 10 times the bike the old one will ever be so *everything* is an improvement.

so what you're saying is that the 6 eliminates the front derailer meaning less usable gear combinations, however i'd assume the cassette to be in a slightly wider/ more usable range than being on 1:8 compared to 3:1 (or vise versa i forget which is a lower gear)

Can't say i've ever heard of Deore, but you're saying it's the better upgrade over the base M5 stuff?

 

If i get the Marlin, do you have a spare Marlin Crawler sticker by chance?

thanks for the heads up about the Roscoe, i've seen your abuse on the trails so i assume the bike is in a similar position.

but if it held up after 2.5 years vs my 10 years on a crap bike, then it'll last forever then.

 

I got long legs, think inseam is 36 according to the jeans i wear.
Planning on heading to Oakville after work to get to a cycle shop that Might have a Large Marling 5 frame to see how it feels (i gotta call in and see if they actually have it in stock)

guess in the mean time i'm looking at differences between the M5 and M6

 

Just change wheelsets. My fat bike has 29+ for summer and 26 for winter. 27+ is effectively the same as 29

 

There is a bit of a buy once cry once situation with going to the 6. The components on the 4 and 5 are really just series up from whats on your ccm. The 6 is a different standard, class, intended use of components. Think of it as block lift vs 5100's.

Regarding range the cassette has 11-46 on the 1x10 vs a 32 on the 8speed 2x8. You will get the low range gearing with the 46t no problem. The low gear ratio on the roscoe 6 is 5% lower than the roscoe 5.

Deore is the base model of the "real" components on the shimano lineup. The lower components are exceptionally "consumer" with the intent that it will never see any serious use. Again, this is like a rough country vs 5100's comparison.

 

Long legs may make the size L a possibility. You also get +/-10mm easy with a stem change. As well as seeing if they have it in stock to try the fit, make sure its built too.