2TR-FE supercharger stuff

Those who have used or are familiar with the URD system, need your help. Decided to remove system entirely since it will be a long while before I pursue any other direction (if at all). Since I bought the truck with the kit on it I need help in knowing where things are supposed to be go once I remove the system.

This (circled) is just above the intake manifold and between the first and second cylinder:

It's T-ed to the boost gauge sensor, the blow off valve, and the elbow on the air box feeding into the charger intake (circled).


Can the T connector in the first picture be replaced with a male-male connector to splice the tubes together, or does the T remain and get connected to something else?

Second question - what is the proper way to remove the 5th injector? Picture shows how it is connected.


Third, I presume the PCV tube can be removed and the port covered with an appropriately sized air filter, correct?



I'm not sure I can find (or want to buy) the stock tube and resonator from the air box to the throttle body, so I'm unsure if there are obvious connecting points to the tubes mentioned. What I'll likely do in the interim is make a tube that connects directly from the air box to the throttle body that has a connector for the vacuum tube. I have some of that Airraid intake tube and some connectors laying around which I can probably make fit. The MAF can go back in the stock air box.

Last, I believe the MAPECU 3 has a plug and play harness. Is it as simple as unplugging the connections to this harness and reconnecting them to the stock ECU?

Thanks in advance for your help and any input/advice/tips you may have.

 

1st. I’m sorry!
2nd. Call URD and tell them you can’t afford to keep buying Rotrex superchargers so you’re removing the system and ask them to email you a set of their so so instructions, then just reverse.
3rd. This is where you can really screw up. Don’t know if the installer soldered the connections or what? But you are going to have to cut into the main ECU wires as it’s not plug & play. My soldering skills suck so I purchased these and extra shrink wrap. Please take your time, again Please take your time and don’t cross any wires. Now disconnect and reconnect the main ECU wires.

$10 haisstronica 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Marine Grade Heat Shrink Butt Splice Connectors for Electrical, Stereo, Corrosion and Weatherproof

https://www.amazon.com/haisstronica-Connectors-Marine-Connectors-Heat-Connectors-Butt-
Weatherproof/dp/B07C3NBTJ9/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1GXHLYLOGEYBZ&keywords=solderless+wire+connectors+awg+24-26&qid=1647669213&sprefix=solderless+connectors+aw%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-11

Good luck and yes you will need to purchase some parts. I purchased the hood latch because it’s just easier and many more parts can be found aftermarket or look on FleBay. Also someone might be selling a new Turbo manifold that was just made but I don’t know what they are doing for sure and I don’t think they know yet.

 

This is a factory hose that was cut into. You can get another one and replace it or just cap the tee off with a vacuum cap from any auto parts store

I think just throwing a filter on would create a vacuum leak. I would route this back into the intake pre-throttle body like it was stock

To remove the 5th, you need either a plug for the fuel rail tap, or you need to get some shorter bolts, remove the tap, and then plug the damper back into the fuel rail like it was stock.

this depends largely on how it was installed. The jumper harness to make things plug and play did not come with mine, that was an extra 250 bucks. Any easy way to tell would be to pull your glove box and poke around some down there. There are two wire harnesses that come out of the MAPECU3, you’ll want to see where those tie into your stock harness or a jumper harness

if you need pics of anything, I just swapped back to stock from the URD sc too, so just let me know

 

Thanks for the info - this is perfect! I think I’ll be okay with the info you provided, but will post questions if they come up. Appreciate your help!

 

Here's the URD installation instructions from their website. The MAPECU stuff might is a separate file.

 

So finally did some poking around behind the glove box and found this, and just want to do some double checks before I proceed. These (circled red) are the stock connectors that will go back directly into the stock ECM, yes?


Behind this, is what I think is the stock ECM. Plugs from previous pic go directly into here (circled green), and MAPECU and harness will then be out of the system, correct?


Gadget sent me this ECM diagram; it looks to be different from the 2013 one JL8Jeff attached, but it does look like each should plug into it's own slot (they are similar sized but not the same).

I know there is also a vacuum line and the 5th injector wire that will need to come out of the engine bay from the MAPECU. I’ll cap the injector feed and vacuum port that the MAPECU connected to once everything is out.

After that the intercooler and associated plumbing will be removed (already got a hood latch brace), and I'll make an intake tube directly from the airbox to the throttle body with inlets for the PCM tube and vacuum line. Am I missing anything?

I'll be sure to disconnect the battery as well as take any other considerations anyone might have before I get to removing it. Thanks in advance for helping me double check!

 

Yes, those will go back into the stock ecu, and there’s only one way they can go. Just did this on Saturday actually haha, but the opposite way

Make sure you use the same diameter tube as stock/the urd sc tube where the MAF mounts. The scaling for the MAF is based on that diameter.

also I’d recommend getting an o-ring for when you remove the fuel rail tap/5th injector. I used part number 90301-07037

Yes that is correct

 

I have some of that 3" "make your own intake" tube that will run from the throttle body to the stock air box, and the MAF will go back to its stock location in the air box. The air box outlet and throttle body inlet are about the same diameter, so thought it should be fine - though I don't know if it needs to be stepped down at some point throughout.

I'm planning to just put a 1/8" NPT plug in the fuel rail tap (something like this) with some PTFE thread sealant, and leave the tap in there, as plugging the hole seemed simpler.

Let me know if I'm overlooking or in error on anything, thanks!

 

Both of those should work great. Sounds like a good plan

 

Hmmm…
I have no idea what you’re paying for the make your own but this two are a good alternative.
The top 2.75” pipe you need to purchase a elbow, straight connector, I think a way to connect a vacuum line and filter for the breather.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333981201532

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353982322750?fits=Engine+-+Liter_Display:2.7L|Model:Tacoma&epid=21041513448

 

Only things I bought were the plug and fittings, which came out to like $12 - the rest of the stuff came with the truck from the previous owner (couplers, tube, etc). Enough stuff to make it work

 

Well I got a call from the Magnuson supercharger vendor. I drive the truck over to them on May 6th so they can have it the week of the 9th. Apparently the Haltech ECU system they are going to install replaces the factory ECU completely, I had no idea! LCE is saying that this system will extract all the horsepower and torque the system will safely make. Sounds like it’s pretty advanced and something about it self tunes itself!? Anyone know about this or know more? I honestly don’t know anything whatsoever.
Also they are saying that they should have the blowers from Magnuson by June so they can actually build and sell some kits.

 

This is the bees knees for our 2TR. I have had my eye on one for a while. Boomslang makes a plug and play harness for our application too. From what i understand, you can set a target afr for a certain area of the tune, and it will adjust fueling as necessary to keep it in that range.

https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-150900-elite-1500-ecu/

 

This is awesome!!!

 

Interested in seeing how this plays out, hopefully well!

 

It’s been a while - all remnants of the URD Rotrex kit are now out of the truck and she’s essentially back to stock. Probably will keep her this way for the foreseeable future as reliable transportation is the current priority.

The HKS blow off valve and possibly the inter cooler are the only things I can probably find a buyer locally. Anyone know if there is any market for the remaining stuff (charge piping, Map3ecu, 5th injector, etc.)? Or if any of it is worth trying to sell?

 

Hmmm… Maybe you and @BassAckwards can get together and come up with a complete system and sell it to someone DESPERATE!
Last I knew his blower was still alive and kicking! I truly think he got a unicorn blower as it’s the only one that I know of that didn’t take a $h!t…

Oh, now be a good time to unload it because I got a text yesterday from the GM saying that they still don’t have the blowers from Magnuson! Jesus Magnuson what the hell?

 

what happened to the magnuson 4 cylinder supercharger> I could of sworn they made them.

 

Sorry and please don’t shoot the messenger but…
The vendor is still waiting on Magnuson to supply the blowers‼️
I got a text from the GM and he said he was hoping they might get a shipment in 4 weeks. Sorry to say I’ve heard that before.
Guys I will say the Heltech (tuning) has made a huge difference!
Gabe (the tuner) told me the Heltech would self tune after the initial tune. Truthfully I was thinking sure it will.
But truthfully I think he’s correct. At first it would stumble and buck at certain RPM’s but I haven’t noticed it anymore…

 

Haltechs are quite the tuning device.