Long Travel BS Thread

Starting to get pretty excited with how everything is coming together. JD +4 up front converting from 2nd to 3rd gen body with Fiberwerx +6 fenders.

I will be moving on to the JD SUA tomorrow. First long travel build and I’m jacked with how it’s all coming together.

 

Not a taco but have my fingers crossed on acquiring an XJ. Fully built 3 link long arm 6" lift with Ford 9" rear end on 35"s. Pretty excited and hopefully deal goes through. Been in talks with the builder/seller. Looking to use the taco to tow it. Any recommendations for a smaller trailer for it?

 

If you’re gonna tow it with the tacoma I would just aim for the smallest trailer it’ll fit on because that should mean it’s lighter. Most car trailers are 7’ wide so if the jeep is narrow enough to fit on that you shouldn’t have any trouble scooping up a used one.

 

Cool cool. My guestimates on weight puts the XJ and trailer right around the 5500 tow capacity. Planning on adding the archive hammer hangers to the taco, and already have some rear air bags laying around. Guess I'll also add the third leaf to the leaf packs I just removed also

 

Here’s a great video on WDH and why they’re better than airbags for towing. Basically it takes weight from your rear axle and puts it on the front axle, more evenly distributing the load. Plus the tacoma manual says any trailer over 5k should use a WDH. I use one with my tundra when towing my tacoma and the truck and trailer are stable as can be. Once I got my hitch dialed in it dropped the tundra 1/2” on the front and rear axles. Pretty nifty.


https://youtu.be/XBZu39pQ8Gg

 

Thanks! I've heard of that but never before had a reason to get it. The airbags I have were previous owner install and tbh I didn't want to put them back on anyways.

 

Yeah WDH are definitely underrated imo. I never even considered it and even bought airbags until I started poking around the tundra forums and came across this video. The fact it distributes the load and also has anti sway (depending on which hitch you get) is pretty awesome.

 

Hey now towing a crawler with your crawler is my gig don't be copying me. I actually just measured my trailer what I thought was a 96 is actually an 84 wide 18' w/ 2' dovetail slide out ramps (I never use those). It's heavy and pushes over the "legal" limits of the taco but these trucks haul a hell of a lot better than older bigger trucks. If you are geared then it isn't as bad I'm on stock gears with 35s and it kinda sucks for steep mtn passes but it'll do it. Get a bigger trans cooler and monitor temps. Try and stay at a good cruise speed in 4th I run about 60-65 and it's happy there, don't use OD but that's probably a given.

Now a few things on that XJ you'll want to upgrade the cooling system if it's not already, hood loovers to get the heat out. You'll definitely want bigger tires especially for the 9". Mine is 3 link front 4 link rear on 37s. I've got a prorock44 in the front and 8.8 in the rear. It takes some getting use to but you'll drag diffs a lot especially only being on 35s. I'm only at 5" of lift just lots trimmed and tucked. Get some hydraulic assist steering it's a world of difference. These things will take an absolute thrashing and keep on going and there is a ton of things you can do to them. Make sure it has the brown dog (i think that's right) motor mounts, frame plates, steering gear brace, front track bar brace, and there isn't a lot of rust around the unibody frame structure.

 

Found another tree today

 

I took the taco for its maiden voyage on the trailer today. Need some feedback on these strap locations and truck placement.

I was really hoping to be further forward on the trailer, but this seemed to be the sweet spot to keep it level. Maybe a hair back. Truck squatted a bit more than I’d like, so I may get a WD hitch or put the air bags back on. Rode smooth on the highway. I could feel when the taco moved, but nothing too bouncy and I didn’t feel like I was being yanked or pushed.

Also, I have brakes on both axles, but am I expecting too much out of them? I barely notice any help braking. The f150 engine brakes hard in tow mode and will down shift into 4k rpm which is a bit unsettling since I’m not used to it.

 

Run the straps over the axle tube close to the shock mounts. How I always do mine.

I towed with a Ram 1500 single cab short bed for years with no issues. Air bags helped stop the sway.

As far as trailer brakes, turn them up and pinch the things on the brake controller going as idle. You should be able to feel the trailer slowing the truck down and almost come to a stop.

and the down shifting is normal. 1500 did it and 2500 does it hard when the engine brake and tow/haul mode is on. It’s using the engine to help slow you down

my Ram 1500

And my new 2500 Cummins I picked up over the summer. Tows way better.

 

I was planning to go over the axle tube, but there wasn’t enough room without hitting the tire if I went to the d ring. I may have to weld new d rings closer to the center since the angle is so steep. Really hoping there’s a better answer, but the top links seemed to work well unless I’m missing something safety wise.

the truck didn’t come with a brake controller, but I have one on order and will use Forscan to activate it on the computer end. I was under the impression if you have a seven pin connector and no brake controller you’d have brakes, just no ability to change the strength.

 

Place the front straps around the inner part of the a arms and you can add a pull down strap in the rear to compress the suspension and hold the truck down... these mods will keep the truck/trailer really stable especially at 90+ mph

 

I had the fronts like that initially, but watched the slack develop hitting bumps going down the driveway and quickly changed that. Worked fine for the dirt bikes, but scary as shit when the trucks suspension compresses

 

For the front, that trailer anchor isn’t suitable in my opinion. Too much leverage on it. I use these stake pocket D rings and they work great.

VULCAN Silver Stake Pocket D-Ring Assembly - 4 Pack

$80 VULCAN Silver Stake Pocket D-Ring Assembly - 4 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PCWD7FZ?_encoding=UTF8


Rear, I would get some D rings welded on straight back and go around the axle tube and hook to those. I guess for the front you could weld some D rings on too while you’re in there instead of the stake pockets.

As Harry said, front LCA pocket. If you weld the D rings on the side/use the stake pocket D rings, that angles the front straps outward and the lines won’t go slack at all over bumps.

Weight distribution wise it does look nose heavy considering how light your rear end is.

As far as the brakes, the controller will let you up the gain and you’ll feel them working. The way to set gain is get up to 15-20 mph and activate the trailer brakes from the brake controller. Find the point where the tires lock up and then back off the gain a bit.

 

I’m saying you need to move the front straps from where they are by the Uniball to the meaty part of the lower arm and then have them pull towards the corner of the trailer. Additionally you can add a pull down strap in the rear

 

You could also try putting the truck on backwards. That’ll let you get it further forward while keeping weight over the axles.

 

I had it like that initially. Seems like closer to the tire would be better so no slack develops when the suspension compresses?

 

Totally didn’t think about that…

 

I’m looking into new d rings and a WD hitch to get some weight off the rear. Not sure if I’ll be ready for AOP in two weeks.