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Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by MJonaGS32, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. Mar 21, 2022 at 5:48 PM
    #3361
    steveo27

    steveo27 Ask me about my weiner

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    The same shit everyone else has.
    I posted a while back looking for battery terminal covers that would cover a milspec terminal and the single post on a deep cycle.

    Never found a solution so I did this.

    upload_2022-3-21_20-47-42.jpg

    upload_2022-3-21_20-47-57.jpg

    Not the best solution but it’ll at least cover everything.
     
  2. Mar 24, 2022 at 7:20 AM
    #3362
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    is all that wiring for the shunt?
     
  3. Mar 24, 2022 at 7:23 AM
    #3363
    BudLoomis

    BudLoomis Well-Known Member

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    Toytec Aluma Series 2.0 (2.5" x 3.5" lift), JBA UCA, Deaver stage 3 Leaf pack, CMC, Viair OBA set-up, KBVOODOO mid rack, Roofnest Condor RTT, CaliRaised Premium Roof Rack w/ 360 lighting, Custom Bed box w/ camp stove built in
    I'm pretty sure all that black 14ga wire is for the battery monitor display... I believe they come with a phone jack type connection that plugs into the charge controller.
     
    fatfurious2[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Mar 24, 2022 at 7:24 AM
    #3364
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    My 25 lb battery comes today. Ill get some pics, and throw it on my LiFePo trickle charger that I have for my motorcycle.

    Next week Im going to start test fitting and marking for where my CTEK will go, along with fuses/breakers/fuse panels etc. Ive got a nice piece of 1/8" 6061 aluminum that Im going to mount everything on, in the bed, along with some upgraded solar wires.

    Ill eventually have a 30A Renogy Wanderer solar controller for sale if anyone is interested
     
    BudLoomis likes this.
  5. Mar 24, 2022 at 7:26 AM
    #3365
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    I eventually want to get a nicer monitor. Right now, I have a very basic one. Im not a huge fan of it, but I think it works for what it is.
     
    BudLoomis[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Mar 24, 2022 at 7:36 AM
    #3366
    steveo27

    steveo27 Ask me about my weiner

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    The same shit everyone else has.
    The wiring for the display on the Renogy battery monitor is like 20ft long.

    My shunt is mounted under the hood and my monitor is in the bed by the tailgate.
     
    fatfurious2[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Mar 24, 2022 at 10:26 AM
    #3367
    point45

    point45 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah its for the shunt. When I finish wiring in the solar panel I'm going to shorten it and tuck it away.
     
    fatfurious2[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Mar 25, 2022 at 12:39 AM
    #3368
    cactushead

    cactushead Well-Known Member

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    2017 MGM DCSB 4x4 TRDOR
    Front hitch, 5100's, 885's, Snugtop XV, Slimline II, Sumos, bed platform, AAL, interior LED lights in cab and bed, exterior camp/backup LED's, Rigid DOT Fogs and D2 Pro Spots, Mega Ultra +130 bulbs, heavy-duty fog light, spot light, and low beam wiring harness, Weathertech mats, Re-routed dif breather and A/C drip line, dash cam, front and side cameras, anytime rear camera and nav, Blue Seas fused bus bars to cab and bed, heavy-duty bus bar w/Anderson quick disconnects under the hood for powering winch, solar, air compressor, and other accessories.
    I have just about finished building my redesigned solar setup. The primary purpose of the solar is to keep my fridge running. Originally, I had my solar charge controller (SCC) under the driver seat. A 100w mono panel mounted on my Front Runner rack provided the current to charge my Northstar X2 AGM 24F deep cycle starter battery. There are a couple of problems with this setup:
    • Not enough capacity due to only 50% usable AH's for AGM batteries;
    • The 100w panel typically generates only 55-70w output from the SCC;
    • My main parking space is shaded most of the time.
    If I knew I wasn't driving anywhere, I would have to move my truck across the street, where there was ample sun, in order to get a decent charge.



    To address these issues, I decided to put a 100 AH SOK LiFePO4 battery in my truck bed. The SCC was also moved to the truck bed and is now mounted on a board (a.k.a., solar control panel). A 1500w inverter and a 30A DC-DC non-isolated charger completes the setup. The total weight of the panel with wires is about 30 lbs.

    Like you, I wanted it high up on the side of the truck bed. My fridge and dual slide takes up almost half of the short bed, so maximizing the remaining storage space was a necessity.

    My first design had the solar control panel mounted on top of the passenger side rail, using 2 of the shell’s mounting screws to hold the base (1.5” x 1.5” angle aluminum).

    The panel was mounted to the base at an angle, in order to follow the contour of the side of the shell. The inside roof line is “stepped”, where it gets thicker (about 6” in from the sides). The only option I could see to support the weight of the panel (and not put undue stress on the fiberglass) was to wedge the top of the panel into the step.


    There are 2 main flaws with this placement. 1) Fiberglass shells do not provide solid support points for bracing and 2) fiberglass shells can flex. As a result, the panel became dislodge after a short city drive (and a few speed bumps). Fortunately, the fridge kept the panel from falling and nothing was damage.

    The latest redesign has the panel attached to 2 posts that are mounted vertically on top of the wheel well with 6, 1/4-20 rivnuts.






    I kept the angle aluminum on the rail because it was still useful for wire management and it provides a solid support base. As you can see here, a galvanized steel strap between the panel and the angle aluminum keeps it stable. This setup is solid and takes up a minimal amount of space.



    I am still able to utilize most of the space above the wheel well. By adding a couple of quick fists to one of the posts, I am able to attach a small shovel and hatchet in front of the posts. Small elongated items, such as fishing rod tubes or trekking poles, can be stored behind the posts.

    Other than the inverter, the battery has only 2 circuits that power other devices (I already have a Blue Seas 6 circuit box in the truck bed connected to the primary battery). A heavy-duty circuit, using 2 AWG wires with Anderson connectors, is capable of powering my portable winch (on a cradle) or my air compressor.

    The other circuit is for light loads. The 10 AWG wires uses Anderson power pole connectors to connect with a box which houses a chassis mount for 4 additional Anderson connector sets/circuits. These will run my low-amp 12v accessories: the fridge, water pump, 12v power outlet w/USB ports for the RTT, and LED string lights.

    It is mounted on top of the battery monitor/power station. For convenience, this is installed on the side rail, near the tailgate, using a swivel mount. Located on the panel are monitors for the battery and the SCC, plus remote on/off switches for the inverter and the DC-DC charger.


    In summary, the first design would have worked if the camper shell had a metal internal frame. Then the panel could have been properly secured to the frame. Mounting the solar control panel to posts on top of the wheel wells is probably the best alternative for a side mount in a fiberglass shell.
     
  9. Mar 25, 2022 at 11:27 AM
    #3369
    jsackspot

    jsackspot Well-Known Member

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    Nice setup! Check out HDPE panels to replace some of that wood; it's what I'm looking at building out. Blaze Off-road also has a couple of well-designed electrical control panels.
     
  10. Apr 1, 2022 at 12:56 PM
    #3370
    slowboater

    slowboater Well-Known Member

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    How does everyone run cable from cranking battery to house battery in the bed? I'm thinking just under the car through the transmission tunnel. Anyone have brilliant tips?
     
  11. Apr 1, 2022 at 12:58 PM
    #3371
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    Along the frame, in loom
     
    crashngiggles likes this.
  12. Apr 1, 2022 at 1:01 PM
    #3372
    jsackspot

    jsackspot Well-Known Member

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    Sound about right. As mentioned, in a loom. More importantly, calculate anticipated power requirements for the right gauge.
     
  13. Apr 1, 2022 at 1:09 PM
    #3373
    slowboater

    slowboater Well-Known Member

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    I have the loom. I guess along the frame would be fine.
     
  14. Apr 1, 2022 at 5:51 PM
    #3374
    cactushead

    cactushead Well-Known Member

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    Front hitch, 5100's, 885's, Snugtop XV, Slimline II, Sumos, bed platform, AAL, interior LED lights in cab and bed, exterior camp/backup LED's, Rigid DOT Fogs and D2 Pro Spots, Mega Ultra +130 bulbs, heavy-duty fog light, spot light, and low beam wiring harness, Weathertech mats, Re-routed dif breather and A/C drip line, dash cam, front and side cameras, anytime rear camera and nav, Blue Seas fused bus bars to cab and bed, heavy-duty bus bar w/Anderson quick disconnects under the hood for powering winch, solar, air compressor, and other accessories.
    My battery/DC-DC charger are in the front of the bed, on the passenger side, so I ran 6 AWG under the radiator molding and the side molding, then down the firewall and along the frame. I brought the wire into the bed through a hole that I drilled above the front of the wheel well. I used butyl tape as a gasket where the wire came through the bed.

    in addition to regular split loom, I also used heat resistant loom, wherever it was used on the wires that I followed. For this route, you’ll need 20-25 feet of wire and 5 feet of the heat resistant sleeve.
     
    P8trit and bagleboy like this.
  15. Apr 1, 2022 at 8:53 PM
    #3375
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Similar to this but back first then across the firewall parallel to the stock harness then down past the cab mount bushing and along the frame rail. Used loom and some nylon cable clamps(not metal or coated metal). You can also get rubber grommets sized for the loom so the loom goes through the bed instead of just the cable.
     
  16. Apr 2, 2022 at 2:21 PM
    #3376
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    And fuse your hot wire as close as possible to the battery to reduce cause of a fire in an accident.
     
  17. Apr 2, 2022 at 3:36 PM
    #3377
    cactushead

    cactushead Well-Known Member

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    These composite beds are about a quarter inch thick. Be sure the grommets are sized for that thickness. If they’re for firewalls, they probably won’t work, since most firewalls are maybe a 16th of an inch thick.

    I like to use butyl tape because it is basically putty and you can mold it around the wire and into the hole to form an air tight seal. I originally bought it to stop the water leaks in the front corners under the rails.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2022
  18. Apr 15, 2022 at 6:27 PM
    #3378
    point45

    point45 Well-Known Member

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    If anyone is curious after finishing wiring the solar it will run an iceco vl65d fridge indefinitely on a 100ah battery. Could probably use a 50ah battery as well.

    100w solar panel keeps up with it just fine.

    When I get in the truck at 9am the battery is already topped off from whatever it ran down to overnight.

    20220415_182446.jpg
     
    sawjai526, fatfurious2 and steveo27 like this.
  19. Apr 18, 2022 at 12:02 PM
    #3379
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    Damn, so I didn't need to upgrade to 200w solar panels and a 100ah battery?
     
  20. Apr 18, 2022 at 12:04 PM
    #3380
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    If my max discharging current is 50A, and i plan to have a breaker between the battery and a blue sea fuse panel, should the breaker be 50A? Or less? The things on the blue sea will be a fridge and bed lighting.

    And this is where Im at so far for design

    B3157F5A-010F-48B1-912D-A0B00152AE40.jpg
    63921951-3DB1-4EAA-AA0E-81DB9A654859.jpg
     
    Tacman19 likes this.

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