What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

how much for the 60/40 bench and where are located?

 

So OEM is the answer? Obsolete Equipment Mitigation?

 

Someone woke up and chose violence this morning

 

Knowing is half the battle, the other half is violence.

 

Keep it up, everyone started where you were. Installing and repairing items on these rusty battleships is no small chore. You'll learn techniques that you will build off of and with enough influence/peer pressure.....you'll start hacking old parts off and welding new shit on!

 

I washed my winch rope for the first time. And I installed a rope gard that had been sitting in my tool box for the last couple of years. It's all Gucci now. Like yesterday's Gucci but still none the less. Oh and I washed the truck too.

 

100%


As long as you're running upgraded shocks/coils you wont feel so much roll.

And if you're lifted, the sway bar isn't actually doing the job the way it was intended to do anyway, unless you lengthen the sway bar end links equivalent to the amount of lift.

I've been running no sway bar for quite a while, I'm heavier than most, and I do a lot of driving. I have never found myself in a situation where I wished I had the sway bar.

 

Have you noticed any difference in trans temps?

 

Throttle body just came back from Maxbore. Looks clean! I’ll get a picture later when I install it Sunday. Got a good feeling that it’s not gonna fix my high idle so I’m thinking my next course of action might be new thermostat and/or coolant temp sensor? Its on its second new IAC valve and every hose is new so it can’t be those two things.
The mystery continues…..

 

And I can’t find the throttle position sensor on McGeore Toyota. What brand do we go with when it comes to the TPS other than OEM?

 

Have you searched for the part number elsewhere in case someone else has the Denso/Toyota part? My experience is that the cheaper TPSers don't last long before causing problems.

 

This is fine right

 

Save the old pulley.

$18 PGN (10 Pack) 6301-2RS Bearing - Lubricated Chrome Steel Sealed Ball Bearing - 12x37x12mm Bearings with Rubber Seal & High RPM Support

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY6Q45...a9350cd5f2e1&s=industrial&smid=A3RMJZMAP3U4RK

 

So finally got the mirror upgrade. New wheels and tires this week.

 

Temp seems to be holding steady since it's been parked in the garage haha.

There's a specific spot up a local road that usually cooks the transmission pretty fast. I need to drive it up there to get a good comparison but It was running at 155° around town

 

Knocked out the passenger side LBJ, outer tie rod, and CV. You can also see my snapped sway bar link here which we were unable to get loose so I had to hit it with the sawzal

CV was completely loosey-goosey so it came out in two parts (actually made it pretty easy since the outer joint and shaft were greased and loose and I could get my cobra pliers on the inner joint to yank out). Feeling good about it but still staying ready to tackle to driver side LBJ and tie rod tomorrow AM and still increasingly eager to get my OME setup.

 

I replaced both sway bar end links with OEM this summer and it made a huge difference with the rolling wobble I felt at highway speeds when the bed was loaded. I considered the Moog ones but ultimately went OEM. There are some overlander expedition brand ones that are super thick and look more durable than the OEM ones but I stuck with the OEM. Like you, at least one of mine was completely broken.

Probably obvious but I found the two wrench method was needed for tightening the nut that connects to the sway bar because otherwise it twists the ball joint all sideways. Allen key needed to loosen the connection with the LBJ but I don’t think needed to tighten. Oh and I found that I had to use a tie bar or ratchet strap in order to get the sway bar down onto the threaded rod part of the link—the rubber bushings are thick and so only the very ends of those threads are exposed at first. Also the torque specs for the two nuts are quite different, the top one is only like 28 or something and the lower one to the LBJ is like 48 I think (or vice versa).

 

Driver's side LBJ and tie rod end done. I think it took longer to Tetris all my tools back in the bag than it did to do the actual job.

Good info and kinda weird that both our snapped links were the passenger side (I guess the odds are 50/50 that would be the case... or are they?). I'm going to ride with it disconnected for a while and then decide if I'm going to restore or delete.

 

Love the cat straddle napping across the tool bag and CV axle box hahaha. You must be much faster than I am--took me a long while to do LBJ and CVs a month or so ago. The hard part for me was just getting the four LBJ bolt holes to line up with the underside of the steering knuckle. And also coaxing the CV axle into the front differential without feeling like I was forcing it. Feels good when it's done though!

Yeah, it is odd that it was both passenger side breaks. My driver's side one wasn't snapped but the ball joint was frozen so it wasn't moving around at all. Much improved after replacing both of them. The damn things are like $130 a piece though for the OEM ones, which is a little nuts considering the OEM upper ball joints are very similar and only cost like $50 apiece.

 

Alright... doing valve cover gaskets and friends and learned my trucks diet has apparently been more than it should have. Shits super dirty.

Is there a way to clean beyond the lower plenum... that isn't crazy involved? (Need to have it back together by Monday lol)