First oil change on my 2021 TRD Sport...

Not a good idea to run any engine with zero oil pressure...and it takes a few seconds for a dry filter to fill before any oil circulation/pressure occurs. Do what you want with your own vehicle, but pre-filling filters is not just a diesel thing. Anytime there is a filter I always pre-fill...always. One of the area's inside an engine requiring oil pressure is the cam shaft, and just a few seconds of zero pressure can result in lobe/lifter damage. Multiple that by the number of oil changes and its just silly to take that risk.
The oil pump is driven off the crank whether the engine is firing or not.

 

That's good to know.

 

Some of those 3.5 tacoma oil change video's are are pretty funny hearing them explain how to drain the oil filter canister, then watching the oil drip down their sleeve as they do it. I think if your careful unscrewing just the canister, and quickly removing it, you can avoid getting oil on yourself, or making a mess.

 

I was recommended by a buddy that operates his independent repair garage to spray the composite oil filter canister threads with heavy silicon before reassembly so it will be easier to remove for your next oil change.

 

My first oil change was a little bit of a learning experience, but the next two have been easy.
Removing/re-installing the skid plate only adds a few minutes to the process.
And I use a Motix

$30 MX2320 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

MX2320 to remove the cartridge housing, it works very well.

 

A lot of these filters are mounted upside down or on the side, they start draining as soon as you turn the engine off. Are you saying I should remove and prefill the filter every time before I start the engine?

 

All engines that I'm familiar with the filters are either mounted straight up or mounted in a horizontal position. I don't know of any in which the filter is upside down. Regardless, all quality filters have an anti-drain valve which prevents them from draining back into the engine during non-running times. That is one of several reasons why I avoid Fram filters. Yes, you should always pre-fill a filter, regardless of position.
Both of my motorcycles and lawn equipment have filters mounted horizontally, and I'm able to fill those filters about 80% and not even spill a drop during the install. You just quickly tilt the filter and spin it on. Be sure the new gasket has an oil film on it, and hand tighten.
When I do an oil change, the first thing I do is to slightly loosen the old filter but NOT break the seal....then punch a hole in the bottom middle and allow it to drain. Then remove the essentially drained filter (by hand) and ensure that the old gasket is removed (sometimes it will stick on the engine adapter). Then drain the engine oil pan. Having the old filter removed allows the engine oil passages to more fully drain. Thus another reason that I always pre-fill my filters. The difference in the amount of time in which normal oil pressure and oil flow is achieved between starting with a filled filter vs a dry one is quite significant.

 

Yep Toyota gives you 2 years free maintenance. Their scheduled changes are at 10,000 miles. So if I change at 5,000 , they pay for 1 , I pay for 1.

 

I plan on doing my own oil change when I reach the 5K mile mark since the last oil change done last month (Feb).

Purchased the fumoto, filter housing and wrench. Of course the TRD Skid plate shouldn't be an issue but I guess I'll find out.

 

I’m an old man now been changing my own oil since the mid 1970s, seen a lot of things. If you aren’t comfortable installing a filter dry( no pre fill ) try this.

I do it this way on my Gen 2 but it would work on any vehicle with a spin on filter. Go ahead and pre fill the filter and watch as it soaks into the pleats. Turn the filter slowly onto its sides while spinning it to soak the pleats, you’d be surprised how much wicks into the pleats. You can do this twice maybe three times, now while it’s soaked in install quickly before it can pool up in the bottom. Now when you are ready to fire it up twist the key and the moment it starts turn it off. Do this two or three times and it’s pre oiled guaranteed.

if you are working with the canister type filter and worry about dry start just do the second thing I mentioned and you’ll be pre oiled, go have a beer you done good I’ve done more oil changes than I can remember and will continue until I am physically unable before I let Skeeter the crackhead at Jiffy Lube touch anything I own.

 

Why not just continue to fill the filter with oil until the oil is about a half inch from the top? People think that if you have to tilt the filter that oil is going to pour out....but it won't. Depending upon the size of the filter I can pre-fill up to a half quart. That's a lot of oil for the engine to fill up prior to proper flow. Not really much difference in starting the engine and letting it run at idle for a few seconds vs bumping the starter several times...I've done both.

 

This will be my first oil change on a Toyota with filter housing vs traditional (in the sense that I've always hand twisted the filter).

All I ever did with the hand twisted filter was put some oil around the rubber seal that mated against the engine.

My first concern is that the filter housing is made of hard plastic...which if over-torqued, can create cracks in it and cause severe leakage.

I've purchased a metal/aluminum housing unit which I shall not over-torque for fear of possible damage to the inserting area where it secures.

Oil changes shouldn't be too much of a challenge to those of us who have done them on various models of vehicles.

Since I'm retired USAF, I'm able to use the facilities on-base to perform such tasks.

To be able to use a proper lift and see the underside of your vehicle is beneficial. You can inspect other areas and also take photos of key areas without constraints.

My concern now is draining the oil without too much oil spillage since I have a TRD skid plate that I'd like to keep clean.

I'm looking forward to this task...should be simple but I don't anticipate too much difficulty.

 

^^^ You will be fine.

With a lift, it should take 30 - 45 minutes tops. Without a lift (and at stock height) in my driveway it took me less than an hour.

Anti-seize your skid plate access hatch bolts. If you haven’t loosened them before, they will be tight.

Use the torque specs for everything. 18 ft lbs for the oil filter housing. 10 for the housing drain plate. Use an empty beer bottle to assist with the housing drain as mentioned above (give the E3 running the shop the remaining 5). Make sure you have the right tool to remove the housing (62mm IIRC).

Everything else was straight as can be. The two O-rings go back where they came from, one one the housing, one on the drain plate.

No worries.

 

I pay $6/hr at the Auto Hobby Shop so I usually (like the Eagles) take it to the limit.

I'm never in a hurry so I wait till the oil is at a slow dribble before I put the cap back on.

I loosened the TRD skid plate hatch bolts after installing it new...it was recommended on the instructions to do so...they were tight as all get out!

I'm sure I'll be cleaning the skid plate from the last oil change at the dealership last month.

 

Good plan. An hour will be plenty of time.

The beer bottle tip (really any glass bottle with the narrow neck) is a good suggestion and one I wish I had known. Not much oil comes out of the filter housing (just a couple ounces maybe), but it is a bit awkward to reach your hand up into the skid plate hatch to push the plastic drain release thing into the filter housing.

Even being careful, some oil did get on the underside of my skid plate. I figured it’ll just be a protective coating, although the drip marks did make me double check my filter housing and drain plug (which you probably should do anyway).

 

The latest motivx wrench has been redesigned not to crack the plastic housing if some over torque it.

 

I bought the 3mirrors oil filter wrench on Amazon--which I'll probably change/buy the Motivx. It will be interesting to see how much torque it will take to remove the housing unit when I do the oil change.

The Motivx does cost more and I saw the mechanism that prevents breakage.

 

What is with the "torque" on the filter housing? There really shouldn't be any. It has an oring seal. Spin it on until it hits and put just a tiny bit of "torque" but at that point, it really wont turn anymore. I have a metal housing. Make sure the threads are clean on the housing and the truck.

Changed my oil with the TRD skid for the first time and it gets on the top of the skid plate. For this reason, I am putting on a Fumoto during the next change. I hope there's no issue opening the valve through the skid plate. Thoughts on that?

 

The motivx wrench now has only the flutes to grip the housing which now are more precise fitting. They claimed the old one could crack the housing if over torqued as it grabbed those housing ears.

 

I couldn't be bothered doing my own. Drive in drive out, and it takes minutes to remove and reinstall the skid plate. I do however keep an eye on it for the next few days to make sure nothing is leaking.