Anyone else had problems with the ABS ECU on their Tacoma?

When I bought my truck the ABS light was on. I pulled codes by jumping a couple of pins on the OBD2 port and it came back with Code 51. Pump motor locked - pretty much the worst code you can get.

I checked the wiring and found no faults. Finding the same pump as mine with all five lines coming out the top was not easy. I found a 2WD part from an S-Runner on eBay for $110 that looked identical, so I bought it.

I swapped the motor from it over to my truck and it made no difference. So I decided to just plug that ABS Actuator under the hood and the ABS light remained off. So with some careful removal of some brackets, movement and slight bending of the lines, I was able to get the ABS ECU removed from the actuator (uses small reverse torx screws). It has like six sensors on the back of it that interface with the aluminum pump assembly which make getting it off with the lines in place a bit of a chore, but it's possible. After swapping the ECU my ABS appears to be fixed. I guess my original ABS ECU was the problem. I did not have to open the hydraulic system, so no bleeding required. The brakes had just been flushed at a dealer back east prior to buying it (fluid looks brand new), so I didn't want to have to bleed the brakes if I could possibly avoid it.

Just curious if anyone has experienced a similar failure. The seller gave me $300 off since they sold the truck and then the ABS light came on. So I'm pretty happy to have fixed it for $110. I know some don't like the ABS on snow/ice, here I don't have to worry about that much.

 

Yes I currently have this same problem. I had an ebay link to a 02 ABS module for $100 saved but the listing has ended. Maybe that's the one you picked up? haha

I haven't spent any time working or looking at it, but I also have the 51 code. So you only swapped the electronic part over?

 

I don't think I bought the same module as you were looking at.

That's correct. At first I swapped the motor which is held on with two torx bits. You have to remove the ABS pump from the bracket which isn't too hard. It didn't make a difference. Then I swapped the ECU and it fixed it. I used a 3/16" socket if I remember which would grab the reverse torx screws without an issue.

 

When you say slight bending of the lines do you mean bend them way outward? Because I cant see how else to do it. Forgive my inexperience. Also were you saying these are reverse threaded?

 

Follow the one individual line that heads down the passenger side firewall. You'll find a bracket attached to the line. Remove the 10MM bolt.

Follow the group of lines across the firewall and behind the drivers side of the intake manifold, you'll find a bracket attached to the line. Remove the 10MM bolt.

That will give you some additional play in the lines. I then grabbed the bundle and gently bent them outwards/upwards until I had just enough clearance to get the ECU out of the way. Removing the Cruise Control Module (3 x 10MM bolts) makes this MUCH easier.

Then replace in the reverse order. I never opened any of the brake lines and they went back to their factory location with just a little bending after attaching the brackets back onto the firewall. There are two clips that attach to the cowl area which hold the lines. Getting those to slide towards the drivers side helps, but you may need to encourage them with your hand instead of just pushing on the whole bundle of lines.

 

I have the same damn problem! I just took my 02 Tacoma to toyota and had them check it out. They diagnosed it as the front left speed/abs sensor. So I bought a new one for almost $300. Didn't fix any thing. Took it back again and the tech is saying it's probably the ecu now. The tech said he might have one at home and is bringing it to work tomorrow. Hopefully it fixes it. I didn't think it would be the wire also and probably the ecu.

 

I have the same problem. My trusted mechanic said it was the module/ECU. Just have to source a new one.

 

I just got one off eBay for $50! It was 75 or best offer. I'll let u guys know if my problem is fixed after new module is installed. Josh

 

Hi guys,
Yes, having the same problem or problems. I pulled the codes and it’s giving me 32 speed front sensor left, sometimes 44 open or short in deceleration sensor circuit but this one comes and goes, clear de codes and won’t see it in a while. And lastly, code 51 ABS pump locked. I did some testing like swapping the front speed sensors, you know left to right and right to left and nothing, still getting code 32. I went to get me a used one but good one (tested resistance with my multimeter and got 1700 ohms) from my local PYP and the same code 32 didn’t go away. I also, tested the pump by disconnecting de two wires plug from the ECU and applying direct +12V from the battery and the pump worked. So, I think the solution to my problem will be replacing the ABS ECU. What do you guys think about the repair service? There is a local shop here in LA that fixes those problems for $150. I was wondering if someone has gone this la route. Thank you.

 

Please see pictures below of the two wires plug. To test the pump you need to apply +12V to the top wire going to the pump motor

 

I’m trying this later.

 

I used this method above - a little bit of effort to bend (not break) the lines and I was able to get the ABS module (ECU) out, and back in. I snaked it out on the firewall side and then down. No need to mess with cruise control. Dealer said my module was bad. Sent it to https://modulemaster.com/ - $100 rebuild, 5 yr warranty. Unit looked clean and rebuilt when I received it. 1 week turnaround. Installed it and ABS light went off immediately. Works like a charm.

 

My ABS light has been on since 2007.

 

I have the same problem. My brakes have been horrible for years now. I hoping this will improve my braking, while also resolving the intermittent ABS light/ speed sensor codes. Trying to source a used ECU without breaking the bank. Wish me luck. Haha. I'll post an update if I succeed.

 

I would suggest beware of sourcing a used one without a warranty from a trusted source that will honor it. The used one could be bad too. I don't like to think about why I know this.

I did the same as SCTazmon posted above and had mine rebuilt. Different place though. I think mine was 'Module Repair Pros' IIRC. Easy, quick turn around and has been flawless since.

 

Why has it taken you years to do something about it? Get your shit together and fix your brakes- I can't believe that needs to be said.

 

Pulled this off during my frame swap. Free + shipping

 

I have a 2017 with the ABS and traction control light coming on after an accident. State Farm now wants to replace the ECU. I have been taking it to the dealership and they have not been able to fix the problem. Do you think me replacing the ECU will make this light stay off. It only comes on when it rains or snows.

 

I ad to do same thing for my 2000 tacoma. Tried to do piece by piece and still had to replace ACH. Got mine rebuilt.