DIY Frame Replacement

I have bought this Denso twice off Amazon. First one was about 2 years ago. Fit perfect in my truck that I rebuilt the front due to a bad F/E collision.

Second one, bought in January, the bottom passenger side bolt would not align. Truck has never been hit.

I think Denso may have either subcontracted this work out, or they have a machine that needs adjusting and they don't know it.

$168 Denso 221-3138 Radiator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096BA8Z6?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

 

They have the sleeves. I actually took those mounts loose to see if it was tweaked up there but it’s all straight as far as I can tell

 

Got it to fit, almost got my trans cooler installed.

 

Today I put in the evap can and the fuel tank, and let it idle for about 42 minutes. First time it’s run since last last April!

 

When I lifted the cab off, before I had a copy of the frame replacement leaflet, I forgot to pull the transfer shifter off (I did disconnect the transmission linkage) and the wires to the push button snapped. I spliced them together but the button no longer engages 4wd (4HI). Shifting into 4LO works, and the dash indicator lights both in N and 4LO.
I’m looking for a replacement shifter with harness, but is there something else I could check?

<edit> looks like one of the wires pulled out of the plug, might be getting a replacement from @BartMaster1234

 

How did you get the measurements / placement of the cab mounts? I'm in the process of swapping an ext. cab frame under my double cab so I gotta move the cab mounts

 

I was lucky in that I got a double cab frame. Some of the mounts were cut off, and I had to transfer mine from the old frame, but I didn’t have to relocate any of them. @joemauma might know.

 

wow.. that's pretty amazing.

 

Well I read in another thread that 4.56 fronts are unicorns, and apparently a lot of salvage yard diffs go by the door code, which is often wrong? I verified that my junkyard rear diff is 4.56 when I pulled it for the TrueTrac, so I put it on 4 jackstands and put it in 4LO with tape on the tires and the floor.
They don’t turn at the same rate. (I also tried reverse, hoping I was wrong)
So, looks like I’m pulling the front back out and splitting the case to count teeth.

 

Wish I’d have checked before, but it was low mileage, marked 2003 - 4.56 with a paint pen, and I heard splitting the case is a PITA, so I just replaced the seals and the mounts.
Was easy to install before I put the engine in, kinda dreading pulling it now.

<edit> it’s marked 04 - 4.56

 

was the diff off the same truck as the rear diff?

 

No

 

That label is a government regulated part on all vehicles. Meaning mistakes result in recalls, so it's very closely monitored at the manufacturing plants.

Only reason it would be wrong is if the door was replaced.

 

This is the thread that led me to check.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/swapping-gears-between-differentials.761675/

Then I did some searching and reading and it seems like regardless of the door code, you probably don’t have a 4.56 ratio 4WD unless you have aftermarket gears.

 

I’m talking about the sticker in the door jamb

 

Front diff back out

 

Tooth count: 41/9

very interesting. I verified the rear differential gearing when I had it apart. Also 4.56.

With all the wheels off the ground, in 4wd, chalk on sidewall and floor the wheels don’t turn at the same rate. Must be different under load, or maybe it’s because the front is open and the rear has a TrueTrac?

I guess my next question is can I reassemble this and run it, or does the disassembly mess up bearing preload or backlash or something else I don’t understand?

 

Just chiming in to say awesome work and thanks for sharing!

 

Progress report

 

Almost 16 months later, I drove it to the gas station. Got an alignment Friday then off to the DEQ for new tabs.