Wiring up CaliRaised LED's w/ OEM Switch

Thanks for this info

 

anyone have a suggestion for what to tie red wire #2 into so that the switch illuminates with the other dash lights? Maybe the next closest switch?

 

I grabbed the illumination signal from one of the OEM switches' wire.

 

Rad. Thanks @outxider! I’m probably going to pick up some of the Cali Raised goodies this month while they’re on sale. A switch, the cubby mount panel, and some ditch light brackets. I’m not real into the pod light craze/look so I’m thinking a set of Hella ValueFit 500’s would be cool.

 

So I’m an idiot and I’m trying to figure out what this diagram is for with the fog light tap? My fog lights come on automatically when truck is turned on and the oem switch is the little branch thing coming from steering wheel I do have a 3rd gen so not for sure how much different my instrument panel would be to the diagramed one. Thanks

 

You can grab the illumination off any oem switch that lights up when you switch the parking lights on. Verify w multimeter.

 

Thanks

 

Thanks Big Dustin!!! This did the trick! Had me so frustrated the backlight was always on even with the key out and I had a feeling it was the constant blue wire from the battery... snipped off the blue and followed your layout and bam works as it should now!! I cant believe they would mixup the wiring and cause such confusion. I would never guess the red1 to the white wire! Thanks again

 

can anyone help me out over here? I have a slightly more complex situation with a LED light bar that requires two switches (one for white lights, and one for the amber). I too am experiencing the "always on" symbol on the cali raised switches. other than that, it all works as designed - including how the text on the switches only lights up when my dash lights are on. So... I want the picture/icon/symbol on the switch to only come on when the light is activated with the switch, but it is always on, even with car off. see my post and wiring diagram here, and THANK YOU in advance for the brain power on this issue! https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-to-this-taco-journey-from-day-1.669258/page-3#post-23732461

 

Black = Ground
Red next to black = Switch text LED (wire to panel illumination)
Red next to green = Icon LED triggered when switch depressed
Green = +12v (goes to relay to activate whatever)



Fun!

 

Noob question here.

I will have a CH4x4 switch, Baja designs 40” Onx6+ light bar, and Blue seas fuse block and circuit breaker soon.

Do I need to add a relay or do I connect per diagram I found on the internet?

 

What factory switch did you tap into with the red/yellow wire? I was thinking of doing the fog switch but it has 4 little dainty wires coming out of it. I also have a wired up dead switch I could tap into also, but I'm not sure if it's wired up at the other end.

 

I tapped into the bed light switch. It was close and yes that green wire was pretty thin as well. I ended up clipping it and soldering the three wires together again.

 

Hey all, I want to share my install on the Baja Designs S8, Baja Designs Dual Switch Harness & Cali Raised Dual Function Toyota OEM "Amber White" Switch. I pretty much suck at wiring, but this is what worked for my application. I wired it straight to the BD Harness and did an add-a-fuse for the back light illumination. Both the amber back light and LED lights work without the accessories being on, as I want to be able to turn the light on at any time. When you cut the 2 switches off of the harness, you are left with 4 wires. Throw away color matching as only the "Blacks" are attached to each other. I used some Male/Female insulated connectors that let me try every combination until I found what worked.
This is the layout before final switch installation. You can see that none of the color matching makes sense, but it works.
Switch back light is blue when accessories are turned on,and white when buttons are depressed. I used M8-1.25 hardware from Ace Hardware to screw the relay into the engine compartment threaded inserts. And zip tied the spaghetti. I will prolly be getting rid of the extra harness wire and moving the switch to the open spot under the head unit. For now, I am happy to have solved the riddle. I hope this helps.