4" lift worth it?

Thinking of going to 4" lift. I currently on 3" of lift. Reason is my alignment bolts gusset flatten out. I know there's other ways to fix it. But been wanting to go little higher for better clearance but I heard I'm gonna lose clearance?? Is there a 4" lift that will give me more clearance? I don't want to go 6" because I have a new born and my wife hates it already when she has to go in and out and I also use my truck bed for work so 6" wouldn't work out for us.

 

If you're not a prerunner the only 4" lift I'm aware of is a drop bracket lift so you'll have to cut your crossmember and move it lower, reducing ground clearance but maintaining better CV angles. If you want more clearance just go up in tire size and cut off anything that the tires rub.

 

Nothing to add but in your part of the world, a 4" lift is called stock height.

 

Lifting the front of Toyota IFS, and really all IFS in general, is limited a lot by the geometry. Essentially, you have 6-6.5" of front travel off the shelf, and lifting only changes your ride height within the bounds of the front travel.

So with a made up example, if stock ride height sits at 2" of uptravel and 4.5" of downtravel for a total of 6.5" of travel, then lifting 4" will put you to 6" of uptravel and 0.5" of downtravel again with a total 6.5" of travel. With such little downtravel numbers, you'll end up with a lot of top out harshness. This is one of the reasons that there are only smaller lifts like 1-3" common for tacomas, 4runners and the like.

Another reason for not lifting a lot is that your LCAs will be angled down a lot and have a lot of in and out scrub on compression. Think about a clock where the center is your LCA pivot, and the number end is your wheel. With the hour hand pointed at 3 o'clock the tip of the hand is mostly moving up and down. With the hour hand pointed at 6 o'clock, the tip of the hand moves left and right. When you're stock, think about your control arm angle like 3'oclock, where the arm is clocked to an angle such that the wheel end moves up and down. When you lift, you're arm angle becomes more like 4-4:30. at 4'oclock, you the tip of the hand now moves both to the right and up. This movement outward from the pivot I call the scrub, as your tire has to scrub outward from the vehicle in order to also go up.

bigger tires will get you more underbelly clearance while not affecting the control arm geometry, so that is another route to go. I currently have about 3" of lift and 35x10.5s on my 4runner and I'd like to drop it down a bit because it sometimes feels unnecessarily high

 

Thank you everyone for the info. I'm just gonna stay with my set up 3" lift. My current set wich I didn't mention is 3.5 vertex RC w/reservoir with SPC upper control arm 295/70/17 Yokohama geolandar. I also have a heavy bumper with a winch so I most likely have 3" lift

 

I decided to just purchase these to fix my alignment problem.

 

This is my rig

 

anymore pics??? Love to see more!

 

Add a 1" body lift. Done.

 

Is that sliders on your truck?
I like the height your truck is at now.

 

That might be a little higher just because I park and climb the curb

 

Yes but it's not welded on the body

 

4”?

no

33, 35, 37, 40” tire all lifts you more than stock 31”

airing down probably loses 1”

 

So just got a quote for welding my total chaos tabs for 800+. And a 4" lift is 1000 now I'm thinking just go with the 4" lift kit. Thinking if I'm gonna spend that much mine as well go with the kit

 

how does the 4" kit solve the folded over cam tabs? Need those cam tabs in place regardless of what is attaching there

 

I'm pretty sure where the drop bracket connects to the existing LCA pivots interfaces on the stock cam tabs. isn't what those square washers are for?