Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

I believe front lockers utilize a bushing which is why it may be resolved with one.

 

Forgot to post in here when i slapped my 35's on a couple of months ago. I finally have the whole thing dialed in and don't rub anywhere on or off road. Im running 16X8 -12 4 inches of backspacing wheels. 315 75 16 tires. Ive got the caster maxed out on the LCA. Ive got the SPC arms set to +4. This gave me a good amount of clearance at the cab mount and with this alone it was good for street driving. I took it to the alignment shop and told them to just set toe and camber and they got it spot on. If your just street driving you should be good to go with no extra modifications. But going off road its a different ball game that takes some extra massaging. First i did a more aggressive CMC and angled the cab mount further back. helped with getting it away from the cab mount. This is actually needed for on road as well my bad lol. But the i also to about 2.25 inches off the flare. Lastly i cycled the suspension and found where it was rubbing and beat that part in with a hammer on the fire wall. Took it off road and full flexed and after the first couple of ruts what was left self clearance and now 0 rub! SPC really the only way if your not wanting to cut the whole sub frame or cut and tub fenders for other arms.

CMC Redo







Driver before and after alignment adjustments.






Passenger Before and after













Fenders cut




flex testing





No rub even turning in rut! Suspension full flexed!!

 

I had my lowers maxed out before the alignment and I get my truck back to my cam straight up, what the crap

 

I'm I a similar boat - "I'll take the extra caster - please get the camber as good as possible and set the toe" - and it comes back with the bottoms shoved forward. From a 4x4 shop nonetheless. I'd love 2 hours with an alignment rack. Switching back to my garage alignment that drove pretty damn well. I wanted to get a true alignment just to see. Unfortunately I had some other work done so the 'before' measurements were after that work. I think I'm going to re-do the DIY alignment and maybe take it somewhere simply to get the numbers ... and make adjustments from that point. Or finally just cut out the fender metal and tub it slightly and be done with it. FWIW mine rubs the fender well when reversing while turning out of my driveway and while off-roading with a moderate turn while flexing. It's a great mall crawler ... but the rubbing while wheeling is getting old.

 

Where do you guys go to get these alignments? Went to a true 4x4 shop this morning who told me I can’t just max out the LCAs and still be in alignment, even with SPCs

 

Yeah truly you can't fit true 35s with zero rubbing unless you tub or space the bump. My 35s skim my hammered firewall under bushing deflection, but they really rub along the whole inner fenderwell. That is at full full bump, where my shock is bottomed out and the Uca is also bottomed out on the inner fenderwell.

 

Yeah it's kind've a joke most places, unless you personally know someone at a shop. I just do tape measure alignments and call it good since I don't want to deal with any shops, especially here in Seattle where anything other than a Tesla is overwhelming to them. Also am constantly bumping mine slightly out of alignment and replacing inner tie rods once a month, so I would be a frequent flyer if I cared about perfect numbers.

 

That guy doesn't make sense. Yea it won't be to Toyota's factory numbers, but that's the whole point of the spc's.

 

I work with Network Alignment in Phoenix and they listen. I had to slightly reduce the caster on the driver side at the LCA to get things where I wanted but I don’t rub at full stuff and lock on 35x10.5R17’s. I made room with just a big hammer and I’m not limiting up-travel with bump spacers. The firewall is very thin and easy to move for sure. It’s doable but takes effort.

 

Hey guys, thought I’d get yalls input before I started bashing my firewall in with a BFH.

Some background- Right now I’m rubbing in reverse while turning and when I’m leaving my neighborhood (slight flex while turning). Haven’t even gone offroad yet to really test it, but if I’m rubbing onroad can’t imagine what it’ll be like in the dirt.

I had the shop who installed all my gussets adjust my SPCs to push the wheel all the way forward, and it looks like they put it on setting G? Here’s a pic


And this is the alignment they set my truck to-


From my research in this forum, SPC position E is ideal with front cam tabs maxed outwards and rear tabs inwards. With my SPC position on G and none of my cam tabs maxed, it seems like my alignment could really be improved. am I tripping? I will probably need to hammer the firewall anyway, but I want to dial in the alignment before doing so.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

Set LCAs all the way forward. Adjust upper ball joint until caster and camber is around 3-4 degrees, setting D for me. Fine adjust at the bottom but if you have to do too much in the bottom, add more caster at the upper until it’s where need it. Pull coilover and cycle and lock to lock. Hammer and cut as needed.

 

We need to see the lower cams. Upper adjustment isn’t that significant.

 

Let's start a thread for fitting 37s

 

How do the 12.5’s fit on the 7.0” wheel?

 

Tightly

 

Nature's beadlock

 

What pressures? What’s the front look like?

 

Hand mounted some 16 wide swampers on 7.5 wide wheels before, now any regular handmount is easy

 

28 psi the 4 runner wheels are 7.5 wide

 

7.5, right, forgot. How much more cutting than the 35x10.5’s?