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Need ideas for paint over chrome.

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Ruminator, Apr 11, 2022.

  1. Apr 11, 2022 at 1:59 PM
    #1
    Ruminator

    Ruminator [OP] Chairman of the Bored

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    Alright doll-face, c'mon and bore me!
    In my de-chroming of the exterior, I removed some oem chrome step bars and replaced them with similar black aftermarket bars. Those aftermarket bars have not held up well. They have some major rust going on at the ends.

    I still have the chrome bars, look like this, except in chrome of course:

    upload_2022-4-11_15-53-56.jpg

    Talked to the local powder-coater. They say they can rough up the chrome with sandblasting and then powder-coat black. On the one hand, this might be a good way to go as it would keep the base zinc coat to prevent rust. On the other hand, I fear that every little stone peck is going to show up as a shiny spot.

    I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better to have them sandblasted, then sprayed with bed liner.

    Anyone have any experience with this?
     
  2. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:05 PM
    #2
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    Have you priced new black step bars? Sell your OEM’s.
     
  3. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:06 PM
    #3
    DTaco18

    DTaco18 Well-Known Member

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    Buy used OEM black steps. They are aluminum and will hold up best.
     
    Aqualoon likes this.
  4. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:12 PM
    #4
    Borracho Loco

    Borracho Loco My truck identifies as a Prius.

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    Oh look, another mod....
    I'm going to try to bring chrome back. I miss the days of 15" Alcoa chrome wheels, chromed out nerf bars, chromed bed rails and the triple chromed bed-light bars; with the round KC lights (and matching yellow smiling covers!).

    I even miss the chrome grill guards, chrome grills and chrome ROCKER panels.

    #LongLive1992
     
    5nahalf likes this.
  5. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:14 PM
    #5
    CPS-65

    CPS-65 I’m good for some, but I’m not for everyone.

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    Either chemically etch with a diluted acid, prime and liner it, or a light blast to promote adhesion, prime and bed line. With either process you will have to be ready prime immediately to stop any flash rusting. If you acid etch, you will have to neutralize the acid, ammonia would be good, then wipe it down with acetone, make sure it's dry, then prime. If you blast, wipe it down with acetone or a wax/grease remover for paint, and then prime. Whatever you wipe them down with, make sure it dries quickly and leaves no residue. Brake cleaner would work. Check with your bedliner guy about the primer coat. I think most liners need a primer or paint coat and not bear metal.
     
    Ruminator[OP] likes this.
  6. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:16 PM
    #6
    Ruminator

    Ruminator [OP] Chairman of the Bored

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    Alright doll-face, c'mon and bore me!
    Aluminum? Holy cow, I did not know that. I'll have to get part #s and prices for the local dealer.

    Getting rid of the old sets is going to be a problem. Not a lot of demand around here. Another reason I wanted to re-use the chromed parts.
     
  7. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:19 PM
    #7
    Ruminator

    Ruminator [OP] Chairman of the Bored

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    Alright doll-face, c'mon and bore me!
    So that's how it's done. What type of acid for etching?
     
  8. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:26 PM
    #8
    Ruminator

    Ruminator [OP] Chairman of the Bored

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    Alright doll-face, c'mon and bore me!
    Can I interest you in some chrome step bars? :D
     
  9. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:37 PM
    #9
    CPS-65

    CPS-65 I’m good for some, but I’m not for everyone.

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    You can use Muratic Acid (Hydrocloric Acid) which is available at HD, Lowes, et. al. Typically, what they sell is a 29 or a 14.5% dilution in the pool supply area. You can use that without further dilution. It should bubble a bit, but may continue to look shiny as it does not take off the Nickle below. You can stop the reaction with some ammonia. The steel will now be prone to flash rusting. If you go this route, you need to be careful. Hydrochloric acid, even in this concentration will burn your skin and your sinus/throat if you inhale the fumes. Use precautions; proper gloves, goggles, mask, etc. It will also affect anything the fumes come in contact with so, it's important to handle it carefully and be wary of fume contact. Don't buy a higher concentration from a chemical supply, this is strong enough and the more concentrated it is the more dangerous it is to handle. It might be best to do it outdoors in a storage or utility area and when there is no breeze to carry it. Neutralize it, and be prepared to prep and prime. IF those steps have plastic pads, remove them before proceeding. Acid is a great cleaner/stripper, but you have to be careful with it.
     
    Ruminator[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  10. Apr 11, 2022 at 2:42 PM
    #10
    Ruminator

    Ruminator [OP] Chairman of the Bored

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    Alright doll-face, c'mon and bore me!
    Super. I'll keep this option open. Thanks much!
     
  11. Apr 11, 2022 at 4:23 PM
    #11
    71tattooguy

    71tattooguy Well-Known Member

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    Sandblast epoxy primer and paint done
     
    Ruminator[OP] likes this.
  12. Apr 14, 2022 at 10:07 AM
    #12
    Ruminator

    Ruminator [OP] Chairman of the Bored

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    Alright doll-face, c'mon and bore me!
    A followup: Found a pair of black aluminum bars at a local dealership on the bruised-and-reduced table (eBay, actually) for relatively cheap.
     
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    #12

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