Atl-atl's TRD Off Road Access Cab documentation thread

Only issue is when loaded up with the rack and bikes, there is so much weight the swing shifts a little, sometime causing the pin to pop up and the latch to get extremely tight. To the point where Ive needed a wrench to loosen it. After a few long trips offroad I got it adjusted to the point where it works now. I would make a few tweaks (like a locking pin, not just a spring loaded pin, for the swing) if I were doing it over but thats no fault of Coastal. That being said, Ive gone on many extended offroad trips loaded up, driving fast, washboards, rocks etc. and have never had any problems.

 

I built the same Coastal Bumper w/one swing out. Im having a problem with that spring pin and latch as well. Ive had to put a velcro strap around the latch to keep it from un hooking through bumps. Was hopping you had a trick, looks like your latches are different than the one i got w/ the kit.

I dig Your rig and cool to see the progress and changes.

 

Missed this reply somehow, sorry about that. The only solution I found was trial and error finding exactly the right tension on the "u bolt" for the latch. Its really effin tight but it hasnt loosened in quite some time. Also, thanks for the compliments, lots of recent changes, cant remember to update this thread for some reason.

 

What can I say, this thread hasnt followed a real life timeline. Since my last update I bought a new house, got married, bought back my old K5 Blazer that I sold a couple years ago, changed a bunch of stuff on the Tacoma and did a bunch of other random shit. Im now running RRW RR6-H -25mm wheels because my Method MR314s in 0mm offset were causing the 315s to rub on the bodies of my 12" rear shock conversion. Also started working on a JDFab subframe with @snowsk8air2 today (he's doing most of the work). Should be done tomorrow as well as a swap from 650 to 700lb springs and a rebuild/revalve of my Kings. Hopefully the 315s wont rub anymore so I can start making up reasons to go 37s soon.

 

Today @snowsk8air2 @Sixthelement and I finished the spring swap, revalve and JDFab subframe/UCA double sheer install. Still working out the final ride height settings and the alignment is happening Tuesday but for now the results are promising, I can actually turn lock to lock with NO rubbing! TONS of room behind the tires from the additional wheelbase provided by the subframe. With a little extra massaging there will definitely be room for 37s. Need to send the skid plate to powder coat but its basically done otherwise. Also Im quite excited to hit the (off)road and not knock my shit out of alignment for once. More pics in the coming days.

 

Rewind two weeks, I got the truck aligned and immediately went out for a 70 mile offroad adventure to one of my favorite camping spots, Sheep Bridge AZ. Its a really rough 70 miles but the suspension did great, very minimal rubbing, mostly on the wheel well liner that is still left. (I also developed a new rattle but havent tracked it down yet) Some of it had to be removed along the way Unfortunately my caster is still super high, 8 degrees, since I dont have the correct UCAs to match the subframe. Doesn't effect anything other than making the steering wheel more difficult to turn. Because of this I had not yet drilled the holes for the alignment tabs to be bolted into place and the result is that my alignment was knocked out of whack...again




You can see where the cam tabs have moved and scratched off the paint.



Then I got my skids back from the powdercoater but didn't even have time to install them before heading out on another trip! If you haven't been to MotoSonora brewing in Tucson its rad, moto/racecar themed and also in the same building as Sonoran Rovers (If you're into British overland rigs)



Back to Sonoita/Patagonia AZ for another of our favorite camp spots. This one will remain a secret though. Listen closely and you can hear the babbling brook thats spring fed and runs nearly year round, in Southern Arizona!

 

You’ve been busy haha.

 

Yup

 

Finally got around to changing the oil myself for the first time. Swapped in the Toyota aluminum filter housing,

$35 Fumoto F133 Fumoto F-133: STANDARD VALVE WITH 12MM-1.25 THREADS WITH LEVER CLIP Gold

Fumoto F133 and 6 quarts of Mobil1. Also this meant I could finally install my lower JDFab subframe skid! If I get a drain hose for the Fumoto Ill be able to change the oil without removing any skids which is rad. Now I just need a mid-skid and gas tank skid.

 

I run a short tube on my valve as well, removing the skid isn't difficult, but not fun.

 

What do you use for the tube? Its an odd hole to try to stick a hose in that wont leak.

 

My valve has a short nipple on it. This allows me to put a short 3/8 hose on it.

 

Damn, wish mine had a nipple.

 

Overdue for some updates here. @snowsk8air2 welded up some JDFab spindle gussets and double sheer steering for me. Also installed the JDFab UCAs that match the subframe so I can finally get this thing aligned correctly. Also checked some other misc. things off the list in anticipation of a July 4th week trip to Colorado.



New sticker for good measure

 

Also finally finished a project Ive been wanting to get done for like 2 years. I got this huge cutting board for free a while back and have always wanted to turn it into a fold down table for my tire swing. Im not super happy with the cable tie situation but its stainless rubber coated and for now it works. Used a piano hinge to mount it to the swing and made my own spring loaded latch pin out of a rando bolt and spring I had laying around to hold it closed.



Happens to be exactly the right size to fit in between the tailgate and swing latch.


Clears the tailgate with plenty of room.


Pretty proud of this one.

 

Got a few misc. updates. Sewed some curtains for the back window of the GoFast. Drilled holes in the panel supports and snuck cheap Home Depot curtain rods in with just enough room to clear the gas struts.

 

Then I did the airbox cowl snorkel mod thingy using Spectre parts. Managed to make it work around my Viair compressor with a slight reworking of the mount. Used a sagittal saw to trim the fins inside the airbox, deleted the scoop from the fender well and the round tube from inside the airbox. Used a 4" rubber pipe cap to seal off the old hole which also works perfectly to seal the hole in the fender. Went on a 1000 mile trip through the mountains in Colorado with numerous downpours on the highway, river crossings offroad, muddy trails etc. and had zero issues. No noticeable power loss and we were as high as 12,000 above sea level. Also didnt notice any increase in noise or HVAC issues.

 

Also added a K&N intake tube that deletes the stock resonator box thingy. Ditched the stock engine cover and misc. brackets that bolt to the intake manifold as well. Not really concerned about it adding power its just easier to access things in the engine bay and actually seeing the engine looks better in my opinion.

Before


Throttle body is super clean for 90,000 extremely dusty Arizona miles.


After a little cleanup, old parts removed and new parts installed.

 

Haven't updated this thread in quite a while. Sold the GFC since my Blazer is up and running as the winter camping rig. Other things will be happening with the Tacoma starting with going a little wild on Black Friday. Back to a tan soft topper. I really like the way the truck looks like this, prob keep it for a while.

Met a fellow GFC and Blazer owner at the GFC event in Palm Springs a couple weeks ago.


Sold the GFC the next morning, at the GFC event, the GFC guys even helped us move the camper onto the other guys truck! Cool buncha folks.


Morimoto XBs installed




Switchpros 9100 + Powertrays installed

 

Update time!!

Finally made the jump to 37s. 37x12.5x17 BFG ATs C load up from 315/70/17 BFG ATs also C load. Whats crazy is the claimed tire weight from BFG is the same. Actual tread width of these measures an inch narrower than the 315s so that probably has a lot to do with it. So far only driving on the street they dont rub which is rad, even hitting bumps while turning, large speed bumps at speed etc. Thanks mostly to my JDFab subframe and cab mount relocation. Ive got Solo motorsports LCAs that push the front axles another inch forward waiting in the wings if I need them once I go offroad and see how they rub. They also havent seemed to affect fuel mileage or power any noticeable amount. I still need to find the time to install my 5.29 diffs.




I also did a bunch of maintenance/mods Ive been putting off for quite a while. Changed the oil, rewired my GPS override switch into my Switchpros and also wired in a new anytime front/rear camera switch that is the correct size for my panel. I also got the bed light switch from a double cab truck to fill the hole in my panel. I have been researching adding that light and figured Id buy the switch at least so I dont have a hole anymore. To my amazement there is a plug that matches the switch. My 2018 access cab TRD Offroad never had a switch in that spot or the bed light. The wiring is actually functional which is cool, at least for the switch to be back lit. Ill have to swap in the double cab 3rd brake light and see if it works. Based on some threads here I was under the impression it wouldnt so Ill be really happy if it does.