Let’s see some subwoofer setups!

Yeah, I’m THAT guy! Rob is great dude and pretty easy to work with.

 

When I installed my UCAs, it took me like 2 hours on the first side and like 30 minutes on the second. When I installed my first CV axle, it took me what seemed like forever to get the first one out of the diff. All of them since then have popped out with ease. Pretty sure my first brake job was several hours and I have that down to around 15 minutes.

I'm sure it wouldn't take you as long to do another blow through now that you know what you are doing!

 

Never had an 18" subwoofer before, so I went ahead and ordered the Skar sdr 18" sub/box bundle, it was $297 and change. It was delivered on Saturday, so far so good!

 

Finally got time to build my box this weekend with help from a close friend. Sundown SD-4 12” on an Audio Control 5 channel. Still needs some tuning but overall I’m very happy with it

 

while the weather was nice last weekend started building the passenger-side box i'll be needing. not entirely happy with how it's turning out with literally everything in the way(cheated hard with a 45 degree chamfer, and dremelled some recesses where needed), left the front off for the time being, i'm going back and forth whether i want to inset the drivers, which would add another 5/8" backer behind the front face and take up even more internal space, or just mount them on the face and deal with any excursion issues if they arise. also debating building a brace for the middle.

with all the airspace reductions, i'm starting to consider installing an aperiodic vent, aka 'leaky box' to make up for it all, though i might just build it and hope for cabin gain to correct for the loss of airspace.

likely could've gone bigger if i was going to run 2- 8" instead of 2- 10", but i'm stubborn... going with an SB Acoustics SW26DAC76-4, and a CSS APR10 passive radiator. it at least modeled really pretty. nearly flat down to 25hz.

 

I'm having a hard time picturing what you are doing. Why all the space reduction inside the box? What are the cutout shapes supporting and/or avoiding?

 

Here's my little setup
It has 4 dd 9515s

 

I did something similar in 2000 with my 1992 sr5 extended cab. But I did four 15 inch JBL gtx subwoofers and a ppi pc2150 amp. Those things were monsters. Only ran it for a week until I pulled them out for a pair of infinity beta 10s and some xtant amps.

 

That’s nothing! I have a Sundown audio 12” in a .8cuft box.

Kidding! Man, that’s sweet! Bet it gives great back massages on long trips.

 

i'm attempting to install the box on the passenger side 2/3 of the back of the cab, where more obstructions are.

the cutout/shapes is to avoid everything on the passenger side. the 2 'slots' are for the child restraint hooks that i'm not willing to alter for numerous reasons, and the angled portion is the required clearance around the rear power window motor.

i only had 1 warm day to work on it so far, so haven't gotten further-- when it warms up on a weekend again, i'll take some pictures in the truck to better show the clearance limitations.

 

Would you mind sharing the thinking behind a preference for the passenger side rather than the driver side? Because you want the driver side for storage? Some other reason?

 

it really just comes down to how toyota divided the seatback. the 1/3 side just simply isn't a large enough box for what i want. ideally, i'd love to use the 1/3 side so i had more space for storage, but i need to be as close to 1cu ft box as possible, and my modeling from others box sizes indicated that i couldn't surpass about 0.5cuft on the 1/3 side.

i did consider going 2/3's across the back starting at the drivers side, but i wouldn't be able to integrate the factory storage cubbies into that design. whereas by shifting towards the passenger side, i'm consuming only 1 storage cubby, which makes for a 100% reversible setup--i do plan to keep this truck until the frame rots out, but surprises happen, and previous builds have taught me it's always better to be able to plan to revert to stock than leave a bunch of oddball custom gear installed when going to sell/trade.

but i'm also insistent on doing a weird and wild active/passive setup. i've always wanted to do one, just lacked the space. this trucks mostly got space, so i'm bending it to my will.

 

Oh, s, sorry, I had my driver and passenger sides confused.

you really want a full foot? No mr Marv or JL stealthbox for you?

I think that part you are doing up high is maybe wasted effort. Not a lot of space gained but lots of extra work.

 

i like to run, um, more 'unique' setups

i don't care for jl. nothing against them, just don't care for them.

mr marv seems busy enough for my specific needs in a very-custom box. i don't know how much mr marv charges, but i looked up the 3/4" baltic birch plywood i'd require-- currently $160/sheet. no matter what, i'd need at least 2/3's of a sheet of that stuff, and if my labor rate is any similar, it'd be close to a $600 wood box. he does nice work, but i'm not even convinced that i'm keeping this setup for any length of time. the entire thing is an experiment. i've had this MDF laying around for over 2 decades for a custom sub box i was going to build in 2006, and 5 cars ago... it survived 1 house moving, so i'm using it somewhere

 

some pictures in the truck, and the clearances i worked around.

the window motor is centered between the child seat attachment points, so there appears to be gaps on either side of the motor, but were intentionally left open to allow an unobstructed vertical channel for any strap that'll drop down from the top of the seat to the attachment point, if i were to ever use those points:








it's a tight fit, but i'm confident that it's the absolute largest box i can fit in the space and around the obstacles unless i were to fiberglass a box into position.

 

That makes WAY more sense! I don't have the power rear window, so no motor to contend with. I appreciate the follow up.

Oh yea, looks good!

 

Custom sealed box in my 2021 TRDOR for a pioneer shallow mount 12", done by a buddy of mine in Pocatello Idaho( T-Dubs Customs) Paired with a DS18 monoblock 1600w amp mounted in the driver side cubby.
Kept the storage boxes, with minimal trimming of the lower edge. This is the shallowest 12" sub on the market, mounting depth is only 3.5", and rated for .5-1.0 in³. Removed the seat back plastic for fitment, but will be putting it back on as it fits fine with it.

 

What’s up y’all - looking to upgrade my little all-in-one 8” sub that I installed under my front seat a while ago.

What’s the best drop in sub setup I can get for less than $500? I’m seeing these on Amazon, are they worth anything?

Compatible with 2005-UP Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Truck Kicker Bundle Comp C10 Dual 10" Rhino Coated Sub Box Enclosure & Harmony HA-A800.1 Amp

$420 Harmony Audio Compatible with 2005-UP Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Truck Kicker Bundle Comp C10 Dual 10" Rhino Coated Sub Box Enclosure & Harmony HA-A800.1 Amp

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CNLGF22?_encoding=UTF8

Kicker Bundle Compatible with 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Truck 43CWR102 CompR CWR Dual 10" Loaded Sub Box Enclosure

$320 American Sound Connection Kicker Bundle Compatible with 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Truck 43CWR102 CompR CWR Dual 10" Loaded Sub Box Enclosure

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GSFITSK

 

what's your music style?
any specific reason for kicker?
what doesn't work for you with the current shallow-8 setup? which version do you currently have?
how did you arrive at the dual-10 setup?

personally, i don't like pre-packaged deals. too easy for them to promise ease of purchasing while sneaking in discount hardware for inflated profits.

the first link, that amp is way overpowering those subs, assuming a final 2-ohm load. it's rated 600w rms, while the subs are 150w rms. harmony also recommends a 1/0 wiring kit with 100A fuse. that wiring kit is only 4ga.

most of those 'under seat' subs are pretty abysmal in terms of output. i ran a sound stream usb10p last truck install. it was maybe a 1/4 of what 1 typical 10" sub with a proper box could ever do, despite the 400w rms rating. i was underwhelmed, but expected, but had wanted to try something different.

if you're only looking for a little more punch, i would recommend going with just 1 10". it will hit much harder than the underseat sub with the proper box. the cost savings in the box and double-subs reductions would allow you to get a better sub and amp. especially if your budget is only $500.

supercrewsound is $160 for a single box, tacomatunes is the same price:
https://www.supercrewsound.com/05tacomadblsingle.html

in keeping with the kicker brand, i'd suggest the compvr for the higher power rating. ran a set for years with no issues. $135:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-108669-Kicker-CompR-CWR102.html

my preference though would be this nvx sub, at $90. for it's specs, and the aluminum shorting ring that reduces inductance, and it's slightly longer throw:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-105457-NVX-VSW104v2-VSW104-v2.html

i would wire either for a 2-ohm load, single coil on the kicker, or paralleled coils on the nvx.

as for an amp, my first recommendation would be the alpine mrv-m500, $190, but it's out of stock. it's an older design, but mostly bulletproof. though it lacks a subsonic filter:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-177731-Rockford-Fosgate-R2-500X1.html

2nd amp option is this nvx nda102, at $130. it's got nicer overall specs in trade for a lesser brand stamped on it:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-181081-NVX-NDA102.html

as for wiring, i use and recommend knukonceptz. they're consistent and descriptive in wire sizing, wire types used, and don't sell under-sized crap. many other discount kits will sell a '4ga' kit that is either aluminum wire, which has it's own issues, and/or will sell that '4ga' kit with wire that is really better officially rated at 8ga power levels, just with thicker insulation to appear 4ga.

the alpine only needs a 4ga kit, the nvx really needs a 1/0 kit.
4ga, $60, complete kit:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a.../complete-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit/


0ga, $124, doesn't include rca's, or speaker wire, $137 total with below links:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a...kits/sp/kolossus-fleks-0-gauge-power-amp-kit/

rca's, $4:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a...pair-2-channel-ofc-rca-cable-5-meter-16-feet/

speaker wire, $9, assuming 10' needed, $.90/ft:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a...ire/sp/kord-ultra-flex-10-gauge-speaker-wire/



tldr:
supercrew/tacomatunes box 1-10" sub box: $160.
sub, nvx: $90, kicker: $135
amp, alpine: $190, nvx: $130
wiring, 4ga: $60, 0ga: $137

the box, nvx amp and nvx sub, and wiring comes to $517+shippings. swapping the amp to the alpine(assuming you can find one for that price) and it's lower cost wiring harness comes in right at $500+shipping.

i wouldn't skimp on the wiring, and only try to buy amps that have power outputs that are CEA compliant, otherwise they like to over-state wattage ratings to artificially boost sales.

but the other components, you might be able to watch ebay for similar components, or skim the for-sale sections here for someone selling their truck and a similar setup. my alpine 5-channel amps all came off ebay or similar for a drastic reduction in initial costs. i just tested them once they came in to make sure everything worked as expected. there's just no warranty/service/support if something goes wrong with this method. YMMV.

 

x2 on a single behind the rear seat 10" sub. That's what I'm planning on doing.

I picked up a Kenwood KAC-511 to power it. I just haven't built the box or picked the sub yet.

I'm mainly looking at shallow mount for obvious reasons, but I think you could probably get away with a shallower standard mount.

I keep telling myself to just spend the money on this kicker: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648CT102/Kicker-48CWRT102.html?tp=111, but I have a hard time spending that much on a sub.

The Alpine Type S is what I had in my last vehicle with a sub and loved it! -though I was not concerned with shallow mounting.

This JBL looks like a good option, but can't handle the power that my amp supposedly puts out: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL1000/JBL-Club-WS1000.html?tp=111

I'm really leaning toward this Polk: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB1042S/Polk-Audio-DB-1042-SVC.html?tp=111
-Shallow mount
-Rated to handle what my amp can throw at it
-I generally regard Polk as a good brand
-Marine rated, not that it maters in a truck....maybe yours though....next time you ford Coppingers Creek
-Cheap. Walmart has the same sub for around $70.