Home Improvement Today?

We have all four of ours on solar with the motion lights. I like that they light up when I walk by at night so I don't need a flashlight on the dark side of our house.

 

Did you try a shop vac with the string? Sometimes that will do it for you.

 

Did this happen with just the zinsser or did you top coat it afterwards?

 

I have just "finished" the Zinnser primer coat. I was going through and looking at the window sills and saw that the paint was pulling back and or split. I'll get some pictures. After starting to pick at it the paint just pealed back like a latex coating back down to the first coat of primer I think the brick ever saw, you know the Pink Lead kind.

 

i doubt theyre "useless" just need to see what works best for you. Just buy one and if you dont like it return it. I bet you can set the timer to have the light on/ off whenever you want or have it have a motion detector activated.

 

We're referring to a brick wall
Primer has failed to bond to surface
Some finish coat has failed to bond to primer
Oil base not Shellac base (https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...s/oil-base-primer/cover-stain-oil-base-primer)
Correct

Technical Data Sheet Oil Base Primer
https://www.rustoleum.com/-/media/D...VS-03_Cover-Stain_Oil-Based_Primer_TDS_1.ashx

The brick would absorb some moisture from washing and would need to dry well before any painting. A porous surface like brick can be dry on surface but still holding moisture below. So this could be adding to the problem. However the primer also needs to dry well (recoat using Zinner in 30-60 minutes) not a finish coat. Oil base primer should dry 24 hours minimum before applying a finish coat. With a Shellac base primer these times are less.

I'll watch for your pictures.
And try to help as much as possible.
I understand your frustration after all the hard work things don't go to plan.

 

@Toyko Joe

Just a thought, Are you using water-based paint on top of the oil Zinsser primer? When I painted my the exterior of my house I used Drylok (textured version) on the lower portion of the slab/stucco followed up with Sherwin Williams Duration exterior flat with excellent results.

https://www.drylok.com/products/drylok-original-masonry-waterproofer

 

Primer bonded to existing paint, then existing paint failed to bond with original Pink Lead primer. Pealing ensued and exposed Pink Lead Primer.
Correct assumption on the product.
That data sheet says not to use TSP as a cleaner... I don't recall seeing that ever on the Zinsser products.

Interior walls, Zinsser is supposed to be good for all types of topcoats. I will most likely use Drylok on the basement area.

 

@Not a golfer
This is the main point of failure.

 

I did not.
Good idea dough. May still try. Loafing now.

 

I know you triple washed…but Is it possible that there is still tsp residue in those areas? If possible TSP can and is often used to degloss and or remove flaking paint. When used for those purposes, it looks just like the picture you provided. If not moisture could have remained in brick. Also is the brick an exterior wall? What was temp when painting? If brick was cold it could account for failure of primer as well. I don’t normally use Zinser. Kilz is my go to. So these are just thoughts…

 

The building is a double wall brick building, and this is an interior wall on the north side. I do think that the TSP and moisture in the bricks were contributing factors, hard to say which one actually caused the issue. I bought some KILZ and I will use the sprayer for application, hopefully it all works out. I am way behind on this project as I keep running into stupid stuff that is slowing everything down. After I had the MiniSplit put in, the unit proceeded to drip condensate all over the entire wall and wood floors. After calling the company back, I discovered that the the installers did not put the unit at the correct height, nor did they re-insulate the refrigerant lines. So bare copper was very cold and causing condensation to just freely drip down the wall onto the floor and now my floors are swollen and I can't keep the building at appropriate temperature or relative humidity.


Needless to say but

 

Prep the area well before applying the Kilz (I like Kilz products). I agree with Pointeman, temperature (humidity/mentioned above) can play a part. Brick wall won't be insulated and can transfer that outside temp. I've had it happen while working in winter on a older home's interior (1950s). Outside interior walls, lack of insulation, cold temp transfer and I had problems (heat can also cause problems).

Keep us posted and we'll (myself and other TW members) try to help more if needed.

I've been in total frustration while doing projects and I feel your pain.

We need to take Murphy off the payroll.

Cause THAT GUY always causes problems!!!!!!!

 

Customer - "can you come over and replace a couple of punky pieces of clapboard (cedar)?"

Me - Sure

Today's reality. This is the daylight basement corner of a 2 story colonial. I have a feeling the rot is all under the corner trim boards.

 

looks like the deck was shooting water behind that corner holy f what a mess lol

Is there any damage above the deck

 

That's what I'm thinking as well. I can't get a ladder up there as there is a window on the non deck side (it's narrow) and there's no room on the corner due to the deck railing. I don't have staging or equipment to get any higher. I thought it was all going to be limited close to the ground. I'm going to chat with the homeowner tomorrow morning. He may need a bigger crew to tackle the rest if he chooses to address it.

 

If you end up trimming it out after the other crew does their thing you’ll prolly want to put some sort of kick out flashing between band board flashing and the corner trim to redirect all that water (as I’m sure you’re aware)

 

Funny thing is...the vapor barrier seems intact...water seems to be getting in behind. I'm also wondering if water is getting in higher up as it feels punky on the right side above deck. That's the area that's hard for me to get to. I'm using good ole tar paper for the repaired section. Who knows.... that OSB shit is like a sponge.

 

Fortunately the sill plate is PT, so no rot.

 

A breathable housewrap might be a better option for downstream of that water intrusion so it can dry to the outside…but with that much water currently getting in there I doubt it would make a difference lol

What’s the roof/overhang situation there