AR-15 BS Thread

I've had good experiences with Win White box stuff in pistol calibers...

 

I have too. They have always gone bang, but damn if ain't some dirty ass ammo!

 

I been using Rem UMC mostly. Had bulk buy stuff around for a long time. Not doggin WWB, just not my thing. But I have stuck with NATO cals in most. 9mm and .45. I dont use much ball ammo in the .45’s. Mostly fancy hopped up HP’s (cc).

No disputing that dirt, haha.

 

I use channel locks to squeeze in my bolt catch pin. Works amazing! No marks on your receiver from hammering in that tight little spot.

 

I tried that and scratched the hell out of my receiver. The painter's tape along the receiver that @JimBeam recommended along with using a little electrical tape to hold the pin on the punch did the trick for me. Hold the pin on the end of the punch and wrap electrical tape around both of them with about 1/8" on the pin and the rest on the punch.

Edit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F219B7oQVuk

 

I use a pair of plier wrenches for starting the bolt release and gas block pins, they work great and are non marring.

 

For the time being, the Army is only going to be issuing the new 6.8mm weapons to combat units like Infantry, Scouts and Combat Engineers. The rest of us POGS will still be using the 5.56mm stuff for a while. I don't see the ammo price going lower too much.

https://www.armytimes.com/news/your...er-to-build-its-next-generation-squad-weapon/

For tools, get some roll pin punches (3/32 size for sure). They will look like a regular punch but will have a nipple at the tip. A brass or nylon hammer, safety glasses. I've also used Duct Tape to protect the lower when you install the magazine catch roll pin. They also sell a roll pin starter punch. Nice to have but not necessary.
If you're having difficulty, file a slight angle on the tip of the roll pin to help direct it in the hole easier.
I also took an old needle nose pliers and drilled a hole at the tip. It holds the pin for you when you start to tap it in.
Not so much for the lower but a nice tool to have. Soft jaw pliers.

$34 Stanley Proto J253G Proto 9-1/2" Soft Jaw Cannon Plug Pliers

https://www.amazon.com/Proto-Soft-C...eywords=Soft+Jaw+Pliers&qid=1650574802&sr=8-9


I'm at work right now but if anyone wants a picture of what I'm talking about, I can see if I can download something when I get off.

My second round in the military was Small Arms/Towed Artillery Repair - Armament Maintenance Supervisor.

 

Engineers are just slightly more retarded general contractors that uncle same let’s play withs C4 and blasting caps, many of who larp on the internet pretending to be EOD techs.

 

I applied painters tape to one side of the bolt catch section and squeezed it in with no marks. I started the pin as best as I could, and squeezed it the rest of the way in. I’ve had great success doing it this way building 6 or 7 lowers already. There is more than one way to skin a cat!

 

I used some Milwaukee pliers and just taped the jaws up with painters tape.

 

Off with the old, on with the new. Now there’s almost no shadow cast by the can.

 

I need to start thinking on which can to get for the 10.5" sbr.

 

LOL get in the back of the line

 

still rocking that old optimus too I see

 

Lots of good options out there, I’m partial to the Griffin Armament stuff.

Yup, it has the Gen 1 baffles for now, I want to shoot the Optimus and my other cans side by side and then I’ll send it in for the baffle upgrade. When it comes back it’ll pretty much be a pistol only can though.

 

I wanted to run the Resonator K on the 13.9 for the shortest length but the larger diameter contacts the handguard so I guess for now the Recce 5 will be on the 13.9 and the Resonator K will be on the 11.5”. I’m very excited to run some rounds through them tomorrow.

 

Yea I'm still rocking the gen one baffles too. Definitely deserves an upgrade but it's at the bottom of the nfa priority list.

 

https://youtu.be/XjpEpJS9LCs