Blown Fuse

Hi everyone. I installed a

$50 Dometic HWK-DC Hardwiring Kit

Dometic hardwire kit in my Taco. The fuse near the battery is a 15 amp fuse. During my initial test, everything was fine. I connected a

$13 PALUMMA 24W/4.8A Dual USB Car Charger, 12V to USB Outlet with Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter LED/LCD Display Battery Low Voltage Warning (Black)

voltage meter to see if it was working. Once I plugged in my fridge however the fuse blew. I replaced the fuse and everything was working great after that. It's been about 2 weeks since then and I've used it multiple times with no issues. There have even been two nights where I left the fridge and voltage meter plugged in overnight. Everything was fine.

If I don't bring my fridge with me, I typically don't plug anything into the outlets.

When I went to plug in the voltage meter to take pictures for the "What have you done to your Tacoma today" thread today however my fuse blew again. The voltage meter turned right on when I plugged it in. When I went to twist it so the numbers were facing a different direction, the fuse blew and power was shut off to the unit.

What could be causing this? Do you guys think it's the voltage meter, the unit itself, or something wrong with my install? I hooked the positive to the battery and the ground to the side of the vehicle where another ground was.

EDIT:
Other things involving the electrical system I've installed are a Rexing V1P dash cam that is connected with a fuse tap to an always on power source in the fuse panel in the cab; the Anytime Backup Camera; replaced the bulbs inside with LEDs; added OEM bed lights; and the power tailgate lock.

 

The volt meter itself, not likely. The port you are plugging into and twisting more likely. Need to check the wires in that port. Make sure they are secured, tight, and insulated. How many amps does the fridge draw?

 

According to the website .65A at 120V. When the fuse was blown this time the fridge was not connected, just the meter. I checked the connections inside the unit for tightness and everything, they're all good. Searched the Q&A section on Amazon and a handful of people were complaining about the meter itself causing the fuses to blow.

One of the reviews said:
"This product has a big metal base at the bottom for the + connection in the outlet. It works fine in my truck, but when installed in the tractor, it shorts to the negative terminal on the side of outlet and blows the fuse every time. (I bought it for the tractor.) I've never seen a plug like this for a cigarette lighter type outlet with the tip so big. I'll have to add some type of insulation to the tip to be able to use it. Everything else I've bought that plugs into the tractor's 12V outlet works just fine"

 

Well, that's some good info to have to make a decision. Return it to Amazon and buy a diff manufacturer.

 

Looks like an appropriate gauge wire to the panel. Make sure the connection from the main battery to the wire connection is SOLID and well seated, otherwise amperage will spike (possibly blowing the fuse). Make sure fuse is COMPLETELY seated (I don't like the inline blade fuses myself because of this). As you allude to above, I'd pop it open and check the wires inside are soldered properly, nothing shorting, etc. Blue Sea makes a great panel if you decide to replace. The one without the voltmeter is like 40 bucks on Amazon, the '3 holer' that comes with the meter is about 80. Good luck!