Alignment Setup

Truck:
2022 Double Cab Long Bed @700 miles.

Suspension:
SPC Adjustable Arms
Full ADS set up at 650 lbs @ 2" Lift
Icon RXT Leaf

Wheel/Tires
Method 17 x 8.5 703's
285/70/17 K02's

Mods:
ECGS Needle Bearing
Carrier Bearing Drop Kit

My truck has been to a very reputable Alignment/tire shop twice now, and i'm still having the same symptoms:
1.) Truck is pulling to the right, hard to explain on internet, but if you let go of the wheel, it'll change lanes on the freeway in about 5 seconds.

2.) I've got a viberation on the freeway approx 70-75mph, I don't feel it at all in the steering wheel. I had a metal pen in my cup holder, and you can hear it bouncing.

What I've Tried:

1.)Tried the same spot of freeway with and without the carrier bearing drop kit, that doesn't change anything.

2.) The truck left the tire shop at 45 psi in the k02's, i tried lowering it down to 36 , which also didnt help.

3.) Both times the tires were balanced the shop said they did a "road force" balance.

Attached is my alignment spec sheet from my latest alignment, can anyone give me any ideas why the truck is still pulling right and viberating?

Thanks!

 

Your Camber is set positive \----/. Ask them to get it to 0 degrees. The vibration you feel at 70-75 ph? If it's very slight it may be just the more aggressive tires. the stock tires ride smooth like glass but everything else will be less. Do the roads you drive on have a "Crown"? (Most roads do)

 

The vibration is pretty rough, enough to make things jump in cup holder, zippers on back pack make quite a bit of noise, my 2 year old sons fat cheeks to jiggle uncontrollably in his car seat haha.

yes our roads are crowned, on the way home, I drove on the wrong side of the road and my truck still pulled right.

 

Your alignment is good at the very worst you may get a slight drift right on a crowned road ideally you want caster .5 lower on the right than left to compensate for crown but .3 is good----vibration & pull usually equals a bad tire, I would cross the front tires & drive it see what happens I will bet it pulls left.

 

Great idea, I now remember reading that suggestion in another thread awhile ago. Ill do that in the morning. Thank you

 

From the link in my sig.

"Cross-Camber and Cross-Caster

Most street car alignments call for the front camber and caster settings to be adjusted to slightly different specifications on the right side of the vehicle compared to the left side. These slight side-to-side differences are called cross-camber and cross-caster.

For vehicles set up to drive on the "right" side of the road, the right side is aligned with a little more negative camber (about 1/4-degree) and a little more positive caster (again, about 1/4-degree) to help the vehicle resist the influence of crowned roads that would cause it to drift "downhill" to the right gutter. Since most roads are crowned, cross-camber and cross-caster are helpful the majority of the time, however they will cause a vehicle to drift to the left on a perfectly flat road or a road that leans to the left."

 

Swapped the front two tires, still pulling to the right unfortunately.

 

To me it looks like your alignment is off, all your current specs listed will cause a drift/pull to the right.
It's close but since you have larger and more importantly wider tires it will have a greater effect then normal.

Set your Camber to -.2 on each side, they should be the same.
Set your Caster to +2.5 or greater on each side, they should be the same, I never mess around with adjusting for crowns. Get them the same at first.
Set Toe to -.02 on each side, they should be the same, you are looking for toe-in not toe-out, IMHO toe-out seems to grab crowned roads more then toe-in.

If you can feel the vibration in your seat and cup holders it is a rear tire, if you can feel it in the steering wheel, it is in the front.
Sometimes tires balance but are out of round, swap front to rear and see what happens. New tires, you may have a bad one.
Also, verify your tire pressures are all the same, this should be standard 1st check of every alignment...

 

I have read people struggling with balancing K02, but I have no experience and this post is based off pure hearsay

 

At this point i'm more bugged by the viberation then the pull, I think at this point i'm just feeling the crown of the road...

Today:
i've swapped the front two tires left to right. Nothing
Swapped the rear tires, left to right. Nothing
My tire pressures are all the exact same.

It does sound like a rear tire situation as you have described.. I feel nothing in my steering wheel. Sounds like my next step is to move my rears to the front, and see if i feel it in my steering wheel?

Whats after that?

 

This might require a process of elimination. If you still have the old wheels and tires I’d start by reinstalling them.

 

Yep, could be a defective tire with a "hop" in it. Did you also check to see if all the weights they installed are still there, on all tires?

I disagree with setting caster the same on both sides. Caster for me (1st gen) is 2.5 left and 3.0 right. Tracks nice and straight, no wandering.

I would swap your back tires to the front and test again.

 

There are so many mistakes a tech can make before it gets to the point of applying weights, it's hard to say...
I noticed, one of the more unique things you have going on is, the Beadgrip rim and tires with a tough bead section. LTs can be a challenge to mount correctly; add a bead seat designed to grip and things get tricky. Probably makes rapid seat sealing difficult as well.

 

Like you and I both said, move the rear tires to the front. If it's not better after that, go back to the shop and have the alignment tech take a spin with you. Go from there.

 

Thank you everyone, this forum is awesome, i really appreciate the input.. I'll swap front to back when I get off work in the morning.

 

Just got stuff on and my alignment last 2 weeks, and it also drifts to the right. No vibrations, ECGS, or drop kit. Specs are similar to mine:

2" lift with Bilstein 6112/5160. SPC UCA. Icon RXT. 17x8 -10. Falken Wildpeaks 265/70. 35 PSI.

Going to try switching tires and/or go visit a different alignment shop.

 

Swap front to rear and see if the vibration moves.
Have your alignment tech ride with you to see what is going on with the pull.

Also, I stated a little bit of toe-in. Why? I am in Denver area and every road here over 6 months has ruts, asphalt is worse then concrete, you can have studs years round. I've been string-aligning (plus camber/castor gauges) for 15+ years and on all my vehicles and I have found that a little bit (1/32" each side) of front toe-in keeps me from trammeling from side to side in the ruts on the freeway. I don't fret caster offsets for crowns because the roads here blow, I 'd just be chasing my tail. YMWV!

 

iNfectious, your rear tow is wack, your axle is pointing to the left. Left rear is pointing out (+0.24*), right is pointed in (-0.22*).

 

We’re in this together brother!! Haha let me know what fixes yours!

 

Your alignment looks good don't worry about the rear .22* is about 3/32" & as long as 1 is negative & the other is positive by about the same amount all that will happen is a slight dog track & at 3/32" you probably can't even see it & definitely wont feel it, I have aligned a suburban after an accident with a diamonded frame that was off over 3" & I could still make it go straight it just used more of the lane than it should & looked real funny driving down the road from behind. If you are worried about it loosen your rear u-bolts & ratchet strap the right forward & or left back & retighten.