Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

One could say I’m fairly proficient and taking things apart. It’s the putting it back together part that I struggle with.

 

Whoops I missed the screwdriver on top of the engine.

 

Hells ya. Oh man, +4? Wow, yea. I can see it.

Were swapping springs tomorrow. Cant seem to get the 18" to work right it seems. So, gonna swap in the 16"

 

I'm also a believer in the mantra, "if brute force isn't working for you, you're not using a big enough hammer."

 

Yep 4+ kit, I love the stance, can't wait to get the glass on.

Which springs do you have? Mines riding a little tall atm, we set the truck to level but I think I'm to lower it down some up front. @EatSleepTacos , how much preload are you running on your 18x500s? So far it I'm riding too stiff on the street for my liking, and there's little to no body-roll. Could be because I have no weight and there's at least one good inch of preload on the springs. I'll snag a pic when I get the chance.

 

This is the only pic I’ve got handy.

 

Actually here we go, found these.

 

I put 1” of preload in your springs, with zero preload it sat where I like it. Once you put a bumper and winch on the front it will bring it back down

 

what spring rate did you end up going with?

 

The 18” 600 are on. With about 1.5” of pre load to install them. Once we measured yesterday.
So swapping to the 16” 650 to have more adjustment since we can’t lower the front anymore.

 

Didn’t you say you had no preload in the springs a few days ago?

 

That’s what I thought. But after all the discussion. Was re doing limit straps yesterday and realized. The springs under tension at full length and measured
So I was wrong.

 

Yeah he did and I never chimed in on it. There’s no additional preload added after install is what he meant to say. Truck looks good and sits at a nice ride height I think, but not the proper ride height by any means.

 

Ah okay thanks, I’m running slightly less. Need to add my bumper to see where I’ll end up. I wanna get my IFS flexy like yours.

Yessir. I’m just planning on the aluminum bumper, so I’ll probably lower it to half an inch. I’m taking ride quality with a grain of salt right now since the system is brand new and there’s so much feedback coming from the rear. That and since these coilovers were meant for a first gen, no clue what valving is in them. I’m looking forward to dialing it in.

18x500lbs.

 

Is there a decent welder for a beginner just learning to weld? I wanna strengthen up some points on a bolt-on coilover conversion kit for the jeep. I'm sure prices vary wildly. Hopefully around $600? $1k max?

 

The titanium and Vulcan welders from harbor freight are a great bang for the buck for a hobbyist. I had the 120v titanium and then upgraded to the dual voltage Vulcan. It’s fit my needs well. I know quite a few people with them and everyone says the same.

 

Well today was a good day.
We swapped the springs to the 16x650 and it is sitting oh so much better. Messed around with the limit straps and different lengths. Have a good setup now. Did have to get new bolts for the steering as one got some mangled threads. But easy enough to do.

 

Got the passenger side inner fender cut out, removed the OE power steering pump, and welding in the shock hoop today.

Not mad about the progress.

 

can’t comment on the HF welders but just be aware of if you need a 110 or 220 welder. Most 110’s top out around 140 range and cheaper 220’s are 180 range. Welding 1/4” with a 140 is doable but don’t be expecting to do beautiful single passes with a lot of them. So if your looking at a lot of sheet metal or 1/8-3/16 thick stuff than a 110 volt welder will get you by fine. I started with a lincoln 140amp welder from Home Depot and worked my way up to the 180 Lincoln after a year or two than finally switched out for a few different millers. Been pretty happy with my Millermatic 255 that I just got last year, but that machine is pretty pricey.