Home Improvement Today?

must be my wifes sister...my wife could break stuff i didnt think would break.

 

After 41 years+ I just got to vent once in awhile...then laugh...then have a beer!

 

Thanks, I'll try that!

 

Could be allen or crosstip screw in there

 

Yeah, I am going to have to lay on my back in the tub with a flashlight to see what kind of screw it is. Mañana!

 

If its loose just turn nozzle/spout up

 

Re-did this closet as a way to trial Old Masters dark walnut stain before committing to doing the front door with it. The stain did come out exactly as intended, but after looking at it now realize this is a total early 90's style that is probably too dark. Someday this will get redone in a medium birch to get more modern looking and the search continues for a stain for the front door, now in 'very weathered condition ' golden oak stain which was very happening in 1985.

Any suggestions from experience for a good stain color (lighter than this) on a red oak front door that looks more modern (more of a medium shade gray I guess) are appreciated. I like the Old Masters stains and should go get some color options.

 

Minwax Mission Oak is my go to but I don't know if it is modern , it has a nice balance of undertones. Not too red or yellow.

Some other options here. I would say Mission Oak is between golden oak and dark walnut.

I have also used simply white on poplar a few times and liked the results.

 

I like Minwax red mahogany, but it's not the color you're looking for.

 

Thanks I'll look for Minwax stains, my HD doesn't carry it so it is new to me. I just drove 40 mi. to nearest Lowes to get Minwax wipe on poly, which turned out to give an ideal seal coat on this shelf after reading lots of reviews.

 

I have mixed Minwax stains to get the desired tone

 

How much stain can be mixed together without having issues?

I was told by the local hardware store that I couldn't mixed to much stain together.

 

I used to do floors back in the old days and minwax was our go to for stains. We would also mix a couple depending on what we were looking for, but it was always within the same color scheme (and noted of how much of each for the customer!!). It's never desired to do that, but the customer gets what they want. lol.
My home upgrade today is a kubota diesel generator being delivered 11kw. Will post pics when it's delivered.

 

You're fine to mix at will within the same brand. Obviously you can't mix oil with water based stains. My neighbor restores/repairs old furniture and mixes Minwax as needed to match.

 

Unfortunately, this still needs to be said. (not directed at anyone here....just memories). I've had a few questions on that by people before. hahahah

 

We are talking STAIN only. Not the other all in one type finishes.

You know, at this point you should ask Miniwax directly.

https://www.minwax.com/en/how-to-finish-wood/wood-stain/tips-pitfalls-wood-stain-matching-article

Minwax OIL STAIN - I mixed and mix at whatever ratio gives the desired tone.

 

Hey look this time it only took me a month to do another update Welp, today was the day I drank a bunch of caffeine and gathered the courage to cut my floor. For those of you that aren't following along, the ends of my wood floor boards are uneven, so when I went to install my nosing (I've got a minor sunken living room) I had gaps galore.

First I measured from the edge of my riser back 1 13/16" onto the boards (that's *roughly* the measurement of my nosing from the back of the nosing to the lip where the bull nose starts). Then I snapped a chalk line and lined up my track saw:


I set the saw to slightly over 3/4" so I just barely score the subfloor underneath:


Then I drank some more caffeine, worked out, called my mom, ate lunch, walked the dog, etc. etc. every excuse I could find until I got enough courage to run that shit across my floor:


Now obviously the saw can't get fully end to end. So I flipped the track around, squared it with the cut I just made, and used it as a straight edge to cut the rest with a multi tool. It worked about 7/10 on a perfection scale. I sat on the track so it wouldn't move, but nonetheless there will be just the slightest gap (1/16"-1/32") luckily in the far end where not a lot of people will be. The closer end was nice and flush and should be tight.




From there I took my router and micro adjusted my 1/4" groove bit (matches the dimensions of the groove on my nosing) until it was the exact depth of the nosing groove. This would make a book-matched groove between the freshly cut boards and the nosing. I tested it on about 10 different spare boards before cutting. My faith in this cheap ass Amazon bit was pretty slim, if you couldn't tell.




Then I took some 1/4" spline and wedged it into my new groove to convert it into a tongue -- this is just a mock up. I have enough to fill the entire groove end-to-end if you read my previous updates:


Finally, the moment of truth showed me that we are DEAD ON! I couldn't believe it


Now my blood pressure is finally coming down a bit. I don't have any loose finish nails on hand, so I'll do the final install tomorrow. I wanted to pre-drill my nail holes in the nosing instead of using my electric finish nailer to avoid splitting. Thanks again to everyone that followed me through this shit show. I'll show some finished product tomorrow hopefully!

 

New plastic handle and rubber wheels for my Hayward aquanaut 400 pool vacuum. $100 and a few minutes of my time, exciting stuff.

 

Hell yeah man. That looks damn good.

Finish carpentry isn't "hard" per se but any mistakes get very costly, very quickly. Measure thrice, cut once with a steady hand. lol

 

That looks great Kyle!