How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Look at how @Taco Camper did his fabric layout for the zippers/screens.

Get a few or more tubes of GEAR AID Seam Grip WP to go over all the seams. You'll need a good squeeze into where the zippers end down low.

Make the rain skirt wide enough and make sure you line it up well. I did 3" and wish I did 4"

The elastic cord isn't necessary IMO, I took mine off and it's the same amount of work to tuck everything in.

Let us know how the tubing works out, that is a good idea since lining up the keder rails is a giant pain. The corners will undoubtely have gaps in them, I can 3D print you some custom filler plates if you need.

 

Anyone come up with a design like a rain gutter for the front covers that go over the cab?

 

I did. Made them and used them for the winter in rainy WA.

Worked well, I made a second version with a better lip, and extended them to 6.5" inward from the outside of the extrusions.

DM me if you want a pair.

 

Update on the EPDM Rubber:

This was recommended by discountrubberdirect.com as being UV resistant and weather resistant.

I'm not super impressed over the last ~5mo of use. Overall it has helped keep 99% of the water out, until it failed. Where the ends meet it allows for water intrusion if sprayed with a hose or during heavy rain. Anywhere that clamps over it causes it to bow out and peel off, like where my latches are. Also where the roof bars mount, and the gas struts mount.

I used

$8 3M VHB 100x200mm~ (4" X8") Double Sided Foam Adhesive Sheet Tape 5952 Automotive Mounting Industrial Grade Very High Bond 5952 (1 Sheets 100x200mm)

3M VHB tape. I cleaned mine off with rubbing alcohol and used a roller. It stuck really nicely for a while, but began lifting off the rubber. It appears to have had trouble bonding with the rubber.




I also didn't completely like the aesthetics of the rubber flap. I decided to peel one side off and see if I could get the normal rubber bulb seal to work better.
After talking with @howied and others I grabbed the caulking gun and went to work. I lifted up the bulb seal and filled everything in that I could, and ran a sealing bead around the edge when it was done (like caulking a bathtub).





Here you can see how water gets in a different direction.
Looking at the center of the photos, you can see where the caps I made push the rubber seal down making a triangle for water to enter. I removed them and put a simple plug in the outside corner brackets instead of a cap that fills the gap.




So far, it's been working.

I am going to take the matress out again, and put a gopro and flashlight in to see if there's any water intrusion or not. Updates to follow.

 

I was going to try the offset bulb seal they make and put on on both the roof and base. It will create a double bulb seal and I'm hoping it also makes a better seal.

Edit:

I see it’s happening at the corners, my idea may not be any better for that.

 

Think the added stress from being wrapped around the corner and open/close of the wedge cause it to fail early? I wonder if you somehow create like a "flex joint" for it at the failure points, if it would last longer.

It doesn't look like it's failed any on the straight runs

 

I might have to go this route since the keder rail is sold out. One thing I don't like about this option is that you have to install the tent before bolting the 80/20 together.

 

Not true! I’ve actually found that if you press hard on a small portion of the tent canvas with the fuel line in there, you can pop it into the t slot. I am using a screen door spline roller to pop the edge of the tent into place. It’s hard work to get it in there, but I am finding it easier than pushing the fuel line/tent pocket in from the end of the extrusions.

Was actually just about to post an update here, so figure I’ll just add it after this comment.

 

Wow, when people say that sewing is the hardest part of this entire project, they sure do mean it! Finished up a brutal non stop weekend (literally, we slept 5 hours over the 2 days) of stitching with my mother. I have zero sewing experience, but she has years of it so I flew her into town and she brought her sewing machine. This was the only time that worked for her work schedule, so we had 2 days to try to get the entire thing done, and we came pretty close! We also added insulation and a headliner to the roof panel.

The tent features 3 double layer doors, with individual zippers to either open the whole door, or just the tent canvas to let in air while leaving the mesh closed to keep bugs out.

The highlight of the tent in my opinion, is the massive awning/rainfly that is completely removable and held up with just 2 spring rods. One continuous zipper runs along the entire top edge, and the awning provides tons of coverage over all 3 doors. My intent with this was to be able to have big vents in the windows while still getting complete coverage from the rain.

Overall, I am so dang stoked with how it is turning out! Still a few things to figure out or correct, but hopefully my first trip with this things is just around the corner!

 

I think you just sold me on the idea. Thanks.

 

Sweet Nirvana poster. What is the yellow flannel on the roof panel?

 

I got this off Amazon to use as keder rail

$104 RecPro RV Awning Trim | Black or White Color Options | Aluminum | 92" Length | Made in The USA (5 Trim Pieces, White)

https://www.amazon.com/RecPro-Awnin...&sprefix=keder+rail,aps,125&sr=8-2-spons&th=1

It looks a bit more kluncky and I haven't installed it yet but it should work. Kinda wish I went with the fuel line though as it looks cleaner and cheaper.

 

Get it here, cheaper and .99$ Shipping. https://rvstoredirect.com/products/...ll-finish-4923014?_pos=1&_sid=03226eb3b&_ss=r

 

Did you add any length to the fabric to account for take up when sewing? I think 1% is typical, but I'm not sure what everyone is using for this material.

 

I purchased mine here. They have raised their price slightly since I purchased but even after the $45 shipping it was still cheaper than anywhere else I could find at the time. also liked having longer lengths instead of the 4' lengths.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/232063473076 (Bare Aluminum)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/331953693736 (White powered coat)

 

We're on! The tolerance for the bolt-downs with the double bulb seal installed was small enough that we needed a couple hundred pounds pressure (one tall friend) to bolt down the topper. Needed to free up garage space to do the door stiffeners (VHB) and be able to do the side/rear struts since it'd be a pain doing it all a few inches off the ground.

Fabric shows up tomorrow to start sewing. I'm probably ~25 hours in labor-wise (research aside), and a lot of that was tinkering time that would be cut down on a second build. I'm still debating between grommets or keder rail for the tent, grommets would be a lot easier and save a little weight, but slightly less sealed

 

How about snaps?
https://www.sailrite.com/Snap-Faste...AY9tirbnoMQHRnzCnRK03jogsocQO2ysaApTUEALw_wcB

 

Took a quick weekend trip in the camper, used the newly added DIY 270 awning that @davzx created. The awning is a definite must have now. The amount of work nothing compared to the build of the camper itself.

 

Getting close. Have made the "tent" out of a tarp as a temporary while I decide if there is enough foot room just need to mount on it and seal the corners.

 

Anyone that’s done this care to help me out with the gas struts. I’m not doing exactly this style but I’m adding the doors to my existing rack. I need an idiot proof way to know how long of struts I need