Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I cut my steering stops off completely and when I cycled mine at droop, I clear the the secondary shock tab with the banjo bolt. Are they moved back like the shock tabs on the +4?

 

So what would be the cause of variance between my setup that allows the banjo bolt to contact the eyelet? Your implying the factory steering stop is trimmed too much?

No, you cut the steer stop off the LBJ adaptor during the installation as there is not contact pad on the LCA. I would classify that as a component of "the kit." Knowing what I know now I would have looked into leaving the factory steering stops like @906taco did but I feel that would be half assed without modifying the LCA to have some type of steering stop. My immediate inclination is you'll experience rust issues like you mentioned. I'm already experiencing gouging on the arms due to lack of steering stops so that's a mute concern.

I also ran the DK LCA arms and didn't have a complaint about turning radius so to your point, "damned if you do - damned if you don’t." As mentioned, there is no "perfect solution" as what works for one doesn't work for another. It's a game of trying to appease the majority. I believe that's why TC came out with their Expo Series arms with a steering stop, to limit this exact issue and offer a solution to the "overland" market. That's also why I mentioned it was my opinion. Simply because it probably wouldn't be a concern if I ran the JD slide rack so opinions differ.

 

Question is, has it been 100% confirmed there is no issues at all even with the slide rack? Gotta figure the majority of guys frequenting a full lock situation are the ones that wheel in tight areas like @EatSleepTacos. If Hes still having issues even after taking a bit of turning radius away it has me nervous because I play in lots of tight spots where full lock isn't uncommon. Is this happening with the +4 kits as well or is it just limited to the 2.25?

 

Maybe because your truck has seen more abuse than any other Tacoma in history? I’ve seen you drive and it’s frightening.

Remember your frame was so bent I made you one off custom upper arms to add back the camber you needed from a bent frame?!

Just saying... and I still love you

 

apparently my 100% differs from @81Trekker 100% so I don't believe I'm qualified to answer those questions.

 

I’ll cycle mine at droop today. I’ll have to pull my limit strap but I’m pretty sure I cleared mine.

 

I’ve never had an issue with stock brakes. If you want to be super duper safe add some delrin rack bushings and limit the slide rack with shaft collars

 

I prefer the term "spirited" but I digress and yes, I'm basically polishing a turd at this point so variances are bound to happen.

 

What surprised me was this most recent incident last weekend wasn't even anything particularly crazy, no different from what I was really doing the rest of the day, or even my past wheeling since I got the Tundra rack installed. The stars must have aligned just perfectly enough which is why I think knocking down that tab a bit will be the easiest solution. But yeah, the trails were definitely tight with plenty of full lock situations.

 

if your going to do that why not weld on a flat piece of stainless on the LCA

 

I look at it as one in the same I guess. Accomplishes the same task at least in my eyes. Not like it contacts a massive patch or anything

 

Locked, I’m strapped but I wasn’t conservative with the straps. Slide rack and +4. No steering stops, but I’m making contact with the spindle bracket onto the lower arm.

 

The passenger side lives a little closer but still clears.

Truck is dirty as hell, yes my cvs are seeping grease, I plan to redo the clamps this weekend for worm gear clamps that Harry uses now.

 

I really question how there could possibly be enough deflection to break off the banjo. Makes no sense at all. I expected to see much closer. @EatSleepTacos what kind of clearance do you have?

 

I’m not sure if my alignment has anything to do with it. I’m pushing the arm forward with alignment too. Rear pockets are outboard, fronts are inboard. I think I got it close to 4.5° of caster. I think my stink bug rear is hurting the ability to get a better caster number.

 

My passenger side outer cv boot leaks grease all over the place no matter what I do. I've tried a tonne of different clamps. I found that with wormgear clamps, the bolt head hits the lower shock bolt, only on the passenger side for some reason, so I can't use them there unfortunately.

I left the steering stops on. Yeah theres some gouges, but doesn't bug me... there are bigger gouges from rocks than anything else anyway.

 

I’ll snag a pic for you tomorrow.

 

Have you tried oem clamps and squeezing the ever living fuck out of it with breaker bars in the pliers? That’s what I did, no issues yet.

Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers

$34 Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SREPY?_encoding=UTF8

 

Mine were done with oem clamps. I redid one of them with a cv band clamp that you tension up and fold over. Still leaked.

 

I wonder if it’s possible you did what I did on accident one time. The inner clamps are different diameters when comparing the inner joint to the outer joint. I had the two clamps mixed up and no matter how hard I tried I couldn’t tighten up one enough to stop it from leaking. Once I realized that and used the correct clamps in their correct spots, no issues.