2nd Gen Tips, Mods & More

Thanks for this

 

Anyone got any ideas what this noise would mean? Sounds like my front axel doesn't like me after this trip, did it a few times on the road between trails and a few times on my last trail. It felt like the axel was seizing up and sort of bumping/skidding forward with wheels locked for a second when on the road and just the awful noise and vibration on the trail.

https://youtu.be/dcvv3QgZvrQ

 

Subd

 

Very helpful thread! Thanks

 

My favorite mod of all. My 05 didn't have a passenger side grab handle. I pulled the headliner down a bit and found the weldnuts are behind the headliner from the factory. Aligned and drilled the hold and bolted this handle in. I'm surprised how much it's used by my right seat rider. I also replaced the two rear plastic handles with these handles so the tall back seat riders wouldn't hit their head on them.

 

Not so much a Mod, but back when I got this, I made some custom bedside decals

 

Bed Light Install 2.5 Gen. For $19

For a couple days I kept thinking about installing some bed light on my Tacoma. I wasn't really happy with any options at the typical auto parts stores. Most either mount with 3M tape, require multiple screw holes in the bed, or are bulky and I could see myself breaking them at some point loading/unloading. I searched up a few flush mount LED options and decided to go with a red color LED to keep bugs away if i chose to use the lights during outings. I settled for a reputable brand "Oznium"

$10 Oznium Brightest Light Bolt - Flush Mount 12V LED Light for Bumper, Grille, Cars Interior, Dash, Ambient Lighting, Motorcycle w/Sleek Aluminum Housing & Screw Nut (11 mm Black, Red LED)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ADHUSRY?th=1 . $10 each light seemed budget friendly .




Well CURVEBALL before I pulled the the trigger and checked out on AMAZON I took a trip to WALMART to buy a couple splice connectors. While in the automotive aisle I found these PostionPodz and while I recognized they wouldn't sit as flush as the OZNIUM lights it would still be out of the way so the impulse buy happened and I settled for amber colored LED's lol (Amber still helps minimize bugs)




I chose this grommet hole to install these so they would be tucked away and the hole already exists I only had to drill it slightly bigger. I removed the beds storage compartments for easier access and I used a 3/8 bit but it was a little too small so I just wallered the hole slightly bigger with the 3/8 bit.



Clearance was fine on the back side I tightened it up by hand and used the battery pack that came with the package to test how well it lit up. After paying closer attention I noticed the two LED's were visible and that having them horizontal lit the bed up more than if they were vertical so I lined them up and tightened it down with a crescent wrench.








I decided I didn't want a switch of any kind to deal with and that it would be fine to wire them so they would turn on when I opened the driver door at night. I chained the two grounds together and ran the wire along the harness that enters the truck under the drivers seat. I sliced a little hole in the rubber grommet and pushed it on through.



I Pulled off the plastic trim at the bottom of the doorway and pulled the wire from under the carpet.



I pulled the doors weather strip off the sill and popped the B-pillars lower plastic trim out to reveal the door switch harness.



I removed a small amount of loom from the harness and spliced in my ground wire.





After that i chained the LED's positive leads and spliced into the green wire that go to my license plate lights.



I tidied up the wiring and connections and took pictures for Yall to see.









My personal opinion I would've likely been happier with the Oznium lights for being Red and being a flusher mount but I still really enjoy this MOD and I don't regret settling. Plus I now have an extra Light as well to MOD something else(maybe center console or under hood light).

 

2.5 Gen DIY Puddle Light install $19



the doors are slightly open in these pics just enough to trip the door switch but stay latched


this took me about 1.5hrs on the driver side (chasing electrical and figuring placement whatnot ) but maybe 15 minutes on the passenger side once i knew what i wanted to do.
needed:
-Flathead
-Phillips head
-T25 torx
-10mm socket/ratchet
-drill
-I'm unsure of the drill bit size all i had was a 3/8 and i made it work
-about 40ft of wire (i used 16 gauge)
-crimpers, cutters. splices etc. for wiring

I picked up these position podz at Walmart in order to install as puddle lights. I definitely wanted to use amber in order to get the best visibility while not attracting to many bugs in-case I want to run these as an area light during outings.




I chose these simply because they were readily available to me. I do like these lights I’ve used them for bed lights as well.
bed light install link: https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/27254089/
but I do recommend if you want a more flush look to use these oznium’s instead there is a few colors to choose.

$10 Oznium BRIGHTEST Light Bolt - Flush Mount 12V LED Light for Bumper, Grille, Cars Interior, Dash, Ambient Lighting, Motorcycle w/SLEEK Aluminum Housing & Screw Nut (11 mm Black, Cool White LED)

https://www.amazon.com/BRIGHTEST-Light-Bolt-Interior-Motorcycle/dp/B01ADHUXGU?crid=1KO4Y1ZJRHQCH&keywords=oznium+flush+mount+led&qid=1652352013&sprefix=ozonium+f%2Caps%2C860&sr=8-5&th=1



I decided to install the podz on my mirrors this would give me a larger spread of light, and i can eventually wire them to blink as a lane change indicator later on since they are visible 360 . If you solely want only puddle lights it may make more sense to use the flush mount oznium's and install them at the bottom of your plastic door panel.

I disassembled the door panel by removing the screws under the covers located at the door pull and the door open handle.



remove the small round clip located near the door panels front jam by pushing the center in then pulling it out. also pry up your door switch cluster starting from the front and remove the harness that is wired into it.




some how I forgot to take a photo but remove the black triangle trim piece that covers your mirror bolts by simply pulling out. now you can pry the door panel off starting at the front and working around the bottom to the back. Once all clips are loose lift up and out to remove the panel.



now unplug the harness that goes to your mirror and remove the (3)10mm nuts that are holding the mirror to the door. as you remove the mirror there is a small clip that helps retain the mirror from falling carefully maneuver it free.




remove the small piece of tape where the wire enters the mirror (may be different colors). then remove the small Phillips head screw adjacent to the wire.




remove the small cap at the bottom at the mirror where the assembly pivots. then remove the three T25 bolts.




now press on the top of the mirror its self to make room in order to reach a flat head behind the bottom of the mirror. there is a white bracket you will pry away to separate the mirror from. it was hard to get a photo but to left you can see Ive already separated the bracket and to the right you can see the flat head in position the pry. after this you can remove the mirror by pulling the bottom then down and out. now you can separate the mirror assembly as shown. (i took some of these photos out of order so excuse the fact that the led is already installed lol)



I used this reference line at the bottom of the mirror in order to install uniformly. the spot worked well the led bolt does not interfere with my mirror adjustment. i placed the washer on the assembly to get a center drill reference so that i ensure the washer had room to sit flat in the inside.



I'm not certain the bit size you need all i had was a 3/8 bit which was slightly too small... I just wallered the hole bigger till the bolt fit lol after installing the LED I Ran the wire up this channel in the assembly and down the tube following the stock harness back out. I reassembled and remounted the mirror.



i could not find a always hot power source that was powerful enough to fully illuminate the light so i decided to run both leads into the cab. I disconnected the speaker harness and removed the (4) screws holding the speaker on to give myself some working room. i reached in and pulled the rubber loom grommet into the door i then reached into the door jam and also pulled the rubber loom grommet out into the jam.





I pulled off the bottom door jam trim, then removed the black foot rest by pulling back. i then unscrewed the black plastic nut and removed the the kick panel trim by pulling back toward the rear of the truck.





ensuring I ran the leads so that they would not get near the window as it raised and lowered, I wired into the LED lights with my 16 gauge. I don't have any fishing tools so I simply used two zipties that i taped up and sharp areas so i didn't tear the rubber loom while pulling through. i taped the leads to it and fished them through.



I reinstalled the loom and I popped the B pillars bottom door trim off by just pulling away from the pillar to reveal the driver door switch and spliced in my ground.



for the power lead I used an existing t tap from a previous owner . the blue wire (not the blue/yellow) near the interior fuse box is always hot .this way i could step out of the vehicle, puddle light lit, without needing the key in the ignition.



rather than chase more electrical i ran a lead to the passenger side, I removed the A pillar trim from the driver and passenger sides by loosening the screws behind the caps on the grab handle I ran my passenger lead up the pillar tucked on top of the head liner across the front window.



i simply repeated the install and grounding process on the passenger side and re assembled everything.

they give great visibility and i feel they will help safety wise for any roadside stuff

 

That's a really great writeup! Nice, I'm going to copy most of it. Thank you!

I installed stereos, alarms, and other electronics for over 30 years and I wanted you to know I've never had a T Tap install fail but in the beginning when I used Scotch Locks those failed often - eventually. I recommend you get rid of the Scotch Locks. It'd be a shame to do such a great install just for it to give you issues down the road and it'll probably happen when it's the least convenient.

 

yea i definitely wanted the T taps more it really came down to availability and impatience lol I ran around town to 4 autos stores and one hardware store (I’m stuck in a smaller town right now) and no one had any T-taps available. Getting orders shipped to me takes twice as long so I just settled. I appreciate the good advice!

 

There are also VLED puddle and pods that can be used. A bit more $$ though

UNIVERSAL LED PUDDLE LIGHT (vleds.com)

Pod Lights - Shop Products (vleds.com)

 

Vleds universal puddle light too big for 12-15 mirrors . Ended up using for engine compartment lights

 

Has anyone installed a push start system in their second gen? Tried to search, no luck. I know there's some options out there, just wondering if its been done and any pro's and con's or issues experienced. TIA.

 

Well done! Sorry if I missed it but are they in sync with the interior lights? Fading in and out?

 

When you get ready to do this, let me know! I want in. I'll supply the LEDs, I have a box full of those exact ones.

 

Nice! Will do.

 

Does anyone have a mod or ideas for a mod to replace the temp. reader on the overhead console? I’m looking for just an upgraded look.

 

The triangular plastic piece is called the sail and the 3 white clips need to be removed from the door and put back on the sail to reinstall it otherwise the sail will push the clips into the door and they’ll be lost since that spot is inaccessible. Ask me how I know. Another member generously replaced the ones I’d learned that lesson on.