DIY Hi-Lift and Tool Mounts

Hey OP and everyone following the thread! Thought I’d tackle this over the course of my work shift while also running two 5-axis Okumas

First off I found some scrap steel from an old metal shelf system


Next I cut out the pieces I needed, forgot to take pics during that process. After that I drew the layout of the holes, and took them over to my small drill press






Next I took the pieces over to the press brake to get a 90 degree bend in them. Starting to look like brackets now!




Now to get rid of the old paint...


And to top them off I found some rubber end plugs to stick on the bent part, I figured this would help prevent any rattle that might happen against the bed


Last thing I need to do is order the rest of the hardware, so the hard part (fab-work) is over. Think I might Plastidip the brackets black. Excited to have some mounts for a shovel and axe for camping!

 

Well, done.. You made that look esay

 

Went and bought all the hardware today, cost me like $6 total to do this project. Got the Quick Fists off my grandpa, I made a bracket to upgrade his fishing pole holders on his boat so he gave me the old ones. And the T-bolt channel things I scored off a friend of mine, as long as I make him some brackets too. Just gotta paint these bad boys and mount them up!

 

I did this with some Koplin Rhino Grips. I more or less followed the tutorial but I did not bend the bars. Instead I took an angle grinder to the bars and the bolts until they was snug against the bed and sprayed the heck out of it with Plasti-Dip. It's really solid.

 

Anyone else having issues with their t-slot nuts hitting the bolts that hold the rails in? These are the ones I got:

$12 LE KAPMOZ T Slot Nuts for Toyota Tacoma Bed Rails Cleats Bed Rack Rail Accessories for Tundra Pickup Truck Deck Bike Mount W/Stainless Button Socket Cap Screw (4 Packs)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TTHNWPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like I am going to have to remove a bolt, slide the nut past and then re-install the bolt until I get them in the right location. Unless anyone can think of an easier way?

 

Either grind down the bolts or use extra washers?

 

Take them to a belt sander and make the bottom part (well, if you look at it like a capital ‘T’ it would be the top) thinner till it fits down the track passed the screws.

Either that or take them to an endmill if you happen to be a competent machinist.

 

I think he means they fit the track, but the screws that hold the track to the bed protrude out and the ‘T’ piece won’t go passed those.

I don’t advise sanding or changing those screws FYI

 

Yup. Could even redneck it up with an angle grinder and flap disc, doesnt need to be perfect Much easier than trying to modify the rail IMO.

 

Nice work! Gotta love those old Bridgeport’s.

 

Thanks. I'll either try to find my belt sander tomorrow or maybe just hand file it and see if I can take enough material off that way.

 

Follow up question. Since the t-slot nut is galvanized, if I do file it down what would be the best way to treat it after to maintain corrosion resistance? Would just hitting it with a coating of Rustoleum be sufficient?

 

Probably, but who knows for sure? I’ve Rustoleum’d things and still got a bit of rust. Do you have a canopy or no? If you get them skimmed down enough you could plastidip them.

 

Read the whole thread and got inspired to make my own. Local hardware store was out of 1/8th so I went with 3/16th instead. Not bad for an angle grinder, propane torch, vice and a 3 lb hammer. Finished it up with some good ol spray can bed liner. Wanted to take more pictures but I was having too much fun bangin metal.

 

looks like a 60” would easily fit

probably same price as a 48”

 

here is a 60 ... fits fine.

 

you think it’s worth it to get a big metal base?
I’m guessing no
I hear people generally like the plastic one like what you have being lighter and easier to store

 

I got a big metal base because I had credit to a fab shop.

If you're buying something to be seldom used and sit in the truck - definitely get the plastic base.

 

If your farm jack isn't just jewelry one of these is worth it.

https://safejacks.com/collections/hi-lift-jack-accessories

 

A 60" would absolutely fit, I got the 48" a while back for free so it will do for now.