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Aluminum oil filter housing downsides?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by ka3ak, May 13, 2022.

  1. May 14, 2022 at 10:26 AM
    #21
    Buck Henry

    Buck Henry Well-Known Member

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    There appears to be a prevailing myth out there that anything related to the engine made from plastic is a disaster waiting to happen. It's just not true! Hell, I bet half the parts on my BMW's coolant system were made of plastic and it was rock solid when I sold that car with well over 100K on the clock.

    Oh, I forgot about the "peace of mind" crowd around here, they must be the one's buying these metal housings.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2022
  2. May 14, 2022 at 11:08 AM
    #22
    dezert.taco

    dezert.taco Well-Known Member

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    Oh okay, unless one has lost all motor sensory feelings in their hand/arm, the likely hood of overtightening beyond meeting the flush point is very unlikely unless you're tightening with 3-foot breaker bar. To cause damage to the threads would require more force than most people will ever apply..."but they're aluminum... its metal on metal...". I'm sure you plus a lot of others are aware of other metal to metal threads on engines/vehicles overall an doesn't seem to be an issue.
     
    ka3ak[OP] likes this.
  3. May 14, 2022 at 12:08 PM
    #23
    Speedfreak

    Speedfreak Member in poor standing

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    I am a Commercial Transport Mechanic. And work with a large group of other mechanics. I could fill a thread of things that have been overtightened by professionals...


    feel is different from one person to the next... I am 6'1" 300lbs.. my feel on the end of a 24" breaker bar is quite a bit different from a 5'4" 150lbs person. This is why there is the great equalizer... a torque wrench, that will tell that person using it, when the appropriate torque is met... no guess work.. and just for context, I know I could break one of these filter housing with breaker bar if I put my weight into it...
     
  4. May 14, 2022 at 2:00 PM
    #24
    kahanabob

    kahanabob Well-Known Member

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    i turn it until it stops turning by hand then using just a ratchet wrench. my issue is the last 1 to 1 1/2 turns with a ratchet are tight, i can't just hand tighten it to a stop point then like a 1/4 turn finishes it. from day 1 of DIY my oil it has always been like that , not like the canister ones on the 2nd gen, hand tighten then another 1/4 turn with tool..
     
  5. May 14, 2022 at 2:18 PM
    #25
    Chuy

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    Our 07 ES350 came with an alum housing. At 260K, it is holding up well. Our 18 RX350 (same 3.5 engine) came with a plastic composite housing (it also has plastic valve covers). The first mod on the RX was to swap to the alum housing. It may be good to 100K, I just don't trust plastic to last past 200K. I do like a poster’s idea of swapping housings every oil change.
     
  6. May 14, 2022 at 2:39 PM
    #26
    jdjones

    jdjones Well-Known Member

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    That leaking-plastic-bypass-coolant-pipe-in-the-back-of-the-engine issue is a little worrisome.
     
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  7. May 14, 2022 at 2:40 PM
    #27
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    i would buy the baxter relocation kit before i buy the aluminum adapter. the design is what annoys me, not the material.

    but if composite is so bad, who's replacing their beds with aluminum versions?
     
  8. May 14, 2022 at 3:04 PM
    #28
    Speedfreak

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    These housing, and I am assuming you have the V6, are not the same as the older style pre-assembled cartridge filters. They are not crushing a seal between the mount flange and oil filter. So using those specs to tightening the filter housing will lead to an over or under torqued housing. I would say by your description, over. You may experience issues down the road if you continue with this practice.
     
    kahanabob[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. May 14, 2022 at 3:16 PM
    #29
    TacoTime55

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    Best response I've read so far: to do interval swap, in my opinion--checking for leaks every time!

    I'm confident that I can mate the aluminum housing into the engine without damaging the threads "on both sides".
     
    soundman98 likes this.
  10. May 14, 2022 at 3:44 PM
    #30
    OriginalMan

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    I broke the ear off of my composite. solely due to my dumbass thinking I was loosening but was tightening. Composite is perfectly fine, torque half way then when hot torque fully to 25nm.
     
  11. May 14, 2022 at 4:10 PM
    #31
    Taco_mike73

    Taco_mike73 Well-Known Member

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    There is nothing wrong really with either I believe the issue is over tightening it. When I changed my oil at 5,000 all was well. Everything came off and I pretty much just hand tighten the plastic cap.
    Then at 15,000 miles after the dealership changed it the cap was so dam hard to get off. I thought I'd break it. Even the techs at the dealership don't always do it properly.
    I have an aluminum on hand but plan to use the plastic one as long as it isn't broken or has a leak.
     
  12. May 14, 2022 at 4:38 PM
    #32
    kahanabob

    kahanabob Well-Known Member

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    what is nm?, i know pound foot and pound inch.
     
  13. May 14, 2022 at 5:03 PM
    #33
    Vlady

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  14. May 14, 2022 at 5:28 PM
    #34
    mutely

    mutely Well-Known Member

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    The composite housing are fine, actually better IMO if treated correctly. My diesel 1ton has composite housings for oil filter and both fuel filters, all 3 have been absolutely perfect for well over 200K. And that gets changes way more often than the Tacoma.
    I’ve never understood either filter mod on the Tacoma, the metal housing or converting to a spin on filter, I much prefer to change a real element filter than the old spin on crap. The problems come from moronic (home) mechanics, not the part.
     
    JJ Diablo and ka3ak[OP] like this.
  15. May 14, 2022 at 7:00 PM
    #35
    kahanabob

    kahanabob Well-Known Member

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    so i googled it and that transfers to 18Ft Lbs, correct? that's what we toque the bottom cover to?
     
  16. May 14, 2022 at 7:12 PM
    #36
    Soul Surfer

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    Sounds correct, I’m pretty sure that’s the spec that’s listed in the filter/housing instal directions that’s on the cover of the OEM Filter Box.
     
  17. May 14, 2022 at 7:24 PM
    #37
    Soul Surfer

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    Edit:

    I was referring to the filter housing.

    I just snug that small drain cover on the bottom after replacing the small O-ring.
     
  18. May 14, 2022 at 7:24 PM
    #38
    Taco_mike73

    Taco_mike73 Well-Known Member

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    That is correct for filter cap.
    The little metal cover over the filter drain I believe is 9ft Lbs.
    I think 20 is as low as my torque wrench goes. Both are possible to achieve pretty much with your bare hands.
    Really those should be in inch pounds.
     
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  19. May 14, 2022 at 7:32 PM
    #39
    ChrisIz

    ChrisIz Well-Known Member

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    Had to deal with the plastic housing earlier today on a family member's RAV4, the dealership over tightened the drain plug and oil filter housing. The plug came out fine after warming the engine up to temperature, now the housing was a bear to remove. I tried using a breaker with the motivx tool and it would not budge, ended up using my impact wrench with the tool to loosen it. Ended up ruining the housing due to an idiot tech at the dealer, luckily I had the aluminum replacement (I intended to use it for my Tacoma) on my shelf.
     
  20. May 15, 2022 at 5:07 AM
    #40
    TacoTime55

    TacoTime55 TT59

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    I am upset for you having to deal with a technician's shortcut--using the wrong tool and over-torqued the housing unit.

    One member in this thread is alternating housing units in between oil changes, (Composite/Aluminum) which I will be doing on my next oil change at 13K miles.
     
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