Help with my 2017 rear tailgate lock

Hey,
I have a 2017 off road edition Tacoma 4X4
The rear tail gate Poplock started making a terrible grinding noise.
At 1st it was only when I locked my Truck, and when I unlocked it, it didnt happen.
Now its making the noise when I lock & unlock the truck.
I took off the tail gate rear panel and I see whats happening.
The Toy of Greenville is no help. I also paid for an extended warranty and the Service technicians said they still charge me $125 per hour to take a look. Then if its covered they would let me know. I told them to forget it and Ill fix it myself.
I spoke to the parts Dept and they said the only thing they have is an Actuator part and its $115.
Parts gave me this part 00016-34092-01 But I cant get it to pull up on google.

The part below is a photo from my actual Truck on the part thats having issues.

I am trying to figure out if I get the replacement part, how do I get the device to sinc up with my Key Fob. I am not a mechanic, but I can do some stuff.
I circled the part that I need, but the arrows are pointing to the bar that vibrates back and forth terrible to make the noise Im hearing. Is there a way to fix it without replacing the unit?
I dont know whats causing it to vibrate. All screws are tight, nothing is loose. I have a video but I cant get it to post on here of how it moves when its being locked & unlocked.

The Aluminum bar (arrows) moves back and forth like a full auto like Brrrrrrrrp.
Again, it still works but sounds like hell when I lock and unlock my truck But it does still work.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
Cj

 

The part is about $140 and pretty easy to install yourself:

https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Lo...kCLoRma0kh8X8_K8OImE5k1RZGKBKTIRoCskMQAvD_BwE

 

A new actuator doesn’t “sync up” with your fob. The actuator relies on a wired signal from the truck when you lock/unlock. Remove the old actuator and replace with the new and it will work the same.

Hopefully the issue lies with your actuator and not with any of the wiring. If its a wiring issue causing the unit to malfunction , the new actuator will do the same thing.

The noise you hear is the actuator opening and closing rapidly, instead of just going 1x up or 1x down.

 

What The Heck? (WTH)

Warranty work should not involve an inspection fee. Take a look at your warranty and see what you can find.

I wouldn't take the word of a Service Tech...elevate that question.

 

I’d buy this before I paid $100+

$43 DEF Power Tailgate Lock Replacement for Tundra Tacoma 2007-2019

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KXVLM1Q?ie=UTF8

Heck, I bet you could get away with almost any actuator.

 

I appreciate the replies.
I was going to call the dealership again as i paid for additional warranty that included alot, even the stereo for 10 yrs, 100k miles and i have 55k miles on it. I figured they would at least look up my name and see if my warranty covered tailgate issues or not.
I was pretty miffed cause i bought it off that lot. Had all service work done at the same loc.
Only thing is i bought my tires elsewhere.

 

Keep us posted. Im curious as to how this gets resolved, especially the extended warranty part.

 

In my opinion, this is an example of an extended warranty (glorified at time of sale) not being honored. Glad it’s only an actuator and not an engine failure due to “blah blah not covered blah blah mumbo jumbo”.

 

It would require a diagnostic fee(inspection fee). If it is found to be covered by warranty then they only charge time for the part and labor to work on the truck. Same as if you have no warranty they should tell you they charge a diagnostic fee. That way if it's not covered or you should choose to not have them fix it, they don't work for free. Just like you wouldn't do in whatever line of work your in . Have 1000 people come in and you do work for free just for them to go down the road and purchase it at another place or do it themselves after you figured the problem.

 

That's a horrible process...but it makes BUSINESS SENSE for them to charge a fee.

I would review what is covered under warranty/extended warranty so there is no surprise if it's not covered.

THESE ARE THE ITEMS NOT COVERED:
Accessory Drive Belts; Batteries; Body Panels; Brake Linings, Pads and Shoes, Rotors and Drums; Bumpers; Carpet; Chrome; Clutch Friction Disc and Pressure Plate; Dash Cover and Pad; Door Fabric; Door Trim; Filters; Fluids; Fuel Cell Air Compressor; Fuel Cell Boost Converter; Fuel Cell Electronic Control Unit; Fuel Cell Hydrogen Tanks; Fuel Cell Power Control Unit; Fuel Cell Stack; Fuel Cell Vehicle Battery Pack; Glass (including Windshields); Headliner; Heating Hoses, Lines and Tubes; Hoses; Hybrid Vehicle Battery Pack; Hybrid Vehicle Battery Plug Assembly; Hybrid Vehicle Relay Assembly; Hybrid Vehicle Supply Battery Assembly; Hydrogen Fueling Electronic Control Unit; Interior and Exterior Trim Moldings (including but not limited to: Ashtrays, Covers, Cup Holders, and Vents); Lamps, Light Assemblies/Housings, and Light Bulbs; Nuts, Bolts, Clips, Retainers, and Fasteners; Paint; Rust and Corrosion Damage; Seat Covers; Sheet Metals; Shiny Metals; Spark Plugs; Structural Framework and Welds; Tires; Vacuum Hoses, Lines and Tubes; Weather Stripping; Wheels and Rims; Windshield Wiper Blades (Rubber component); All interior and exterior cloth, leather, and stitching including convertible tops and/or vinyl tops including but not limited to: any vibration, deterioration, discoloration, disfigurement, warping, fading, staining, stretching, ripping, punctures, tearing, and/or scratches

ELECTRICAL
Alternator; Automatic-Off Headlamp Sensor, Timer and Switches; Automatic Shoulder Belt Motor and Switches; Automatic Temperature Control Unit; Battery to Ground Cable; Battery to Starter Cable; Blower Motor; Blower Motor Resistor; Charge Warning Relay; Clutch Starter Interlock Switch; Convertible Top Motor; Cruise Control Actuator/Servo; Cruise Control Sensors and Switches; Cruise Control Vacuum Motor; Defogger Relay; Distributor; Door Control Relay; Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge and Sending Unit; Engine Coolant Temperature Receiver Gauge and Sending Unit; Engine Cooling Fan Motor; Engine Tachometer; Fuel Gauge and Sending Unit; Fuel Receiver Gauge and Sending Unit; Guide Rail Limit Switch; Headlamp Washer; Headlight Control Relay; Horn; Horn (for theft deterrent); Ignition Coil; Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder and Key Set; Integration Relay; Lamp Failure Indicator Sensor; Lock Cylinder Set; Main Relay; Manually Operated Switches; Oil Pressure Receiver Gauge and Sending Unit; Power Antenna Motor and Cable; Power Door Lock Actuator; Power Mirror Defogger; Power Mirror Motor; Power Seat Motors; Power Sliding Door Motor; Power Window Motor/Regulator; Rear Shock Absorber Control Actuator; Retractable Headlamp Motor; Shoulder Belt Drive Motor; Smart Entry and Start System Switch, Sensor and Electronic Control Unit; Spark Plug Resistive Cord; Speedometer; Starter Motor; Starter Solenoid; Stop Light Switch; Sunroof Cables; Sunroof Motor; Taillight Control Relay; Turn Signal Flasher; Unlock Warning Buzzer; Windshield Washer Pump; Windshield Wiper Link Assembly; Wiper Control Relay; Wiper Motor; Wiring Harnesses

 

Exactly right, but this generation of entitled hatchet wounds will never understand this.

 

I can understand not working for free but to not even try to help, not even attempting to look up my name, my current warranty info, nothing was attempted.

O well not going to make it a bash the dealership

i just wanted to get help on fixing.

Thanks

 

I think something didn't get communicated correctly between the two parties. Either the customer didn't ask correctly, the service tech didn't explain correctly, or just a complete misunderstanding between the 2. Here is how the conversation should have went.

Customer: I'm have a problem with my rear tailgate lock make a noise when I try to operate it and you go into a little more detail of the problem.

Service tech: We would be able to look at that for you and find what is causing your issue. We do have a $125/hrs diagnostic fee to find what is the problem.

Customer: I do have an extended warranty and does that cover it.

Service tech: We will check out what is causing the noise and if it is determined to be covered under that policy. Then you will not be charged for anything other than the deductible if you have one.

Customer: What if the issue isn't covered by my extended warranty.

Service tech: If it's determined to not be covered under warranty then you will have 2 options.
Option 1: If you choose to let us repair it. Then you wouldn't be charged for the diagnostic fee and will only be charged for the parts and labor time spent on the truck(which mean you still basically pay for the fee but is determined by the book how many hrs get charged for the repair)
Option 2: If you decide you don't want us to repair the truck then you will be charged the diagnostic fee of $125/hrs that we worked on the truck.

Customer: Can you just not tell me if it would be covered under my warranty before any work is done.

Service tech: I'm sorry but until we tear it apart and look to see what it is causing the issue. We have no way to determine what will or will not be covered under your warranty.

With that being said they always or should always let the customer know that there is a diagnostic fee as soon as the customer starts asking what it will cost. If they had a magic crystal ball to tell them what the problem is ahead of time. They could easily tell what is covered or not covered under a warranty. Other than that it would be a guessing game and I'm sure you wouldn't be happy if the told you before looking at it, that it would be covered under warranty but then come to find out it wasn't and your on the hook for the repair job. Your name and warranty would only tell what [can] be covered but the diagnostic will tell them [whether] it will or will not be covered.