I want a truck that Toyota never made

X-Runner parts are back from Toyota of Richardson Body Shop and painted. The panels and ground effects are not buffed yet. I am going back to have this done once I get everything installed on the truck.

 

Starting to put the freshly painted X-Runner front fenders on, along with the bed side X-Runner fenders. These don't have any square holes in the front fenders around the wheel well. They do have square holes in the bed side fenders (3 in front of the rear tire and 3 behind the rear tire) these are used in the mounting of the factory X-Runner ground effects. Front RH fender model number is 53811-04090. Front LH fender model number is 53812-04090. Rear RH bed side fender model number is 65500-04903. Rear LH bed side fender model number is 65600-04903.

 

Dang I have a super white reg cab and would love to have 4x4 bedsides and fenders with flares... Too bad shipping to hawaii would be crazy for those parts.

 

Front and rear X-Runner bumpers

 

Side ground effects

 

Looking good!

 

All that hard work finally comming together. Looks awesome . Like the color of xrunner rims .

 

Yeah, the whole truck is awesome but the wheels are Wicked Awesome.

Good, goddamn job sir

 

Are you not installing the rubber moulding?

 

Yes, I installed the rubber moulding on all the side ground effects. The body shop took off all the original rubber mouldings when they painted the ground effects but I bought all new rubber and added to the ground effects before installing them. I don't have any rubber moldings on the front or rear bump effects because there was no part numbers for them. I am not sure they came with rubber moulding on the bumper ground effects

 

The rear two bumpers definitely has rubber. I used an extra roll and cut to fit. I’m not sure if the newer version front uses it or not but the older xrunners definitely use it.

 

When trying to remove the factory antenna from the front fender, I ran into a problem. I bought 3 separate tools to try and remove the factory antenna nut but it would not turn. I had to finally drill the antenna mount and destroy it... just so I could get the fender off. After inspecting the antenna assembly... it looks like someone used red loctite to keep it from getting loose. So I decided to replace the factory antenna with a power antenna. I think this gives it a cleaner look and still lets me use the radio and get good reception. I used a Metra 44-PW530 European Style Fully Automatic AM/FM antenna. I had to buy a new Toyota ornament base mount (since I destroyed the other one)

$28 86392-04040 Antenna Ornament

86392-04040.

 

The Metra power antenna comes with its own grommet. I don't need this. So, I am cutting it off and using the factory grommet instead. Next ,I taped all the wires that are going into the cab together (blue, red and antenna wire). The only wire I didn't tape up was the ground wire (hanging down to the side). Next you will see the factory grommet, where I have cut the factory antenna wire so that I could remove the fender. Below that, you will see the factory lower mounting location with a 10mm screw in it.

 

Impressive! Looks great, thanks for sharing your build and insights!

 

When trying to mount the power antenna, I used the factory ornament on the outside of the fender and pushed the power antenna up through the fender to expose the threads. Then I used a silver spacers and the antenna nut provided with the Metra kit and tightened those down kinda firm but not super tight. Once the lower mount is complete. Then tighten the antenna nut all the way. The lower part of the power antenna has 2 mounting locations that are threaded in the bottom of the unit. I am only using one of these with a piece of metal strip with holes in it ... provided in the Metra kit. I have always heard this metal strip to be called "Plumber's Tape". I then bent it in a 90 degree angle to provide a base for the antenna to sit on and screw into the bottom of the power antenna and also use the factory mounting location on the inner fender with the factory 10mm bolt.

 

Then I removed the factory grommet and removed the factory blue tape that held the grommet to the antenna wire. Next you will see how I mounted the lower part of the antenna.. please note the open hole in the middle of the bottom of the antenna... this is a drain hole. Next, I pushed the factory grommet over the taped wires... keeping the ground wire to the side because it doesn't need to go into the cab. I decided to use a closed crimp on the ground wire and attach this to the factory 10mm bolt on the inner fender along with the bottom antenna mount... as seen in 2 pictures. I then pushed the other wires into the cab and pulled the factory grommet tight and sealed it to the inner fender. Next you will notice I attached the provided drain tube and cut it to a desired length. Then I tighten the antenna nut down and put on the fender liner and passenger X-Runner fender flare on.

 

The power antenna has 3 wires and the antenna cable. The antenna cable is the standard size and goes into most aftermarket radios with no problem but if you are using a factory Tacoma radio you will need a Metra antenna adapter (40-LX21) which switches the standard size Toyota’s square plug style. The black wire is the ground, which I grounded in the pictures to the antenna bottom mounting location using the factory 10mm bolt. The next wire is blue one, this is basically the wiring that makes the antenna go up or down. If the antenna sees 12 volts on this wire the antenna will go up and if there is no power on this wire… the antenna will go down. If you have an aftermarket radio with a solid blue wire (it should be an antenna wire) this wire sends out 12 volts when the AM/FM radio is turned on and if the radio is turned off or you switch to another source on the radio this wire has no power. If you have this solid blue wire, it makes it easier to wire the antenna. My Pioneer aftermarket radio doesn’t have the solid blue wire but it has a blue wire with a white strip... this wire is meant for the amp turn on. This means that it will have power when the radio is on and will not have power when the radio is turned off. For example, this means that the antenna with close automatically when the ignition is turned off but will stay up when you are listening to other sources on the radio. If you go through a car wash for example, you will have to turn the power button off on the radio to lower the antenna. The way I wired my power antenna is with the blue white amp wire but I put a toggle switch between the radio and the antenna so that I can have the antenna choice when to raise or lower the antenna. Most of the time I listen to my iPod/iPhone playlist and not the radio, so the antenna stays down but if I choice to listen to the radio… I just press in the toggle switch and the antenna now closes automatically with the truck being turned off or if I turn off the radio’s power button. The next wire is the red wire, this wire needs 12 volts all the times. Most people think of this as a wire directly to the battery, like the yellow wire off most aftermarket radio. Once the blue wire on the antenna has no power to it, the antenna uses the power in the red wire to lower the antenna. Example, when you shut off the ignition and the power antenna is up... you have no power in the blue wire… so the red wire powers the antenna motor to close. Think of it this way… when the red and blue wire both have 12 volts power the antenna goes up but when the red wire has power but the blue wire doesn’t then the antenna closes or goes down.

 

Ok this entire build as absolutely astonishingly beautiful, the care to detail is amazing. I know it's a super little part of the entire project but I love that you went with the power extending antenna, always thought they looked awesome.

 

I had to rivet the aluminum strip to the painted rocker ground effect using six 3/16 x 3/8 rivets. This aluminum strip gives structure to the rocker panel ground effect. The model number to this aluminum strip is 75865-04010 and is the same for both sides. So, 2 are required in total for this install.. one for the driver side and one for the passenger side.

 

Next, is to mount the ground effect moulding mounts. The short one with the curve goes to the front of the cab and the longer one goes to the back of the cab. For the right side 75861-04010 is the front mount and 75393-04010 is the rear mount. For the left side 75862-04010 is the front mount and 75394-04010 is the rear mount. Notice in the pictures that there are 3 pink compression tabs on the front moulding mount and 1 yellow compression tab on the front moulding mount. On the rear moulding mount there are 4 pink compression tabs and 1 yellow compression tab… these don’t come with the moulding mounts and you need to buy separately. Model number for the pink compression tabs is 75396-04010 and you need 7 per side. model number for the yellow compression tabs is 75395-04010. These compression tabs help hold the rocker panel ground effect into place, so put them on now.

Next, notice the red plastic compression tabs, these will go into the holes where I remove the small rubber covers from the bottom of the rocker panel in the next set of pictures (7 of them per side). These red compression tabs come with the moulding mounts. Gently guide the front moulding mount into place (using these tabs and holes) without pushing the tabs in all the way. What we need to do here is mark 2 points with a marker or tool. Once that is done, do the same with the rear moulding mount. Notice on the moulding mounts there are 2 holes with silver spacers in them on the front and also the 2 on the rear moulding mounts… these are the 4 points that we are marking on the bottom of the rocker of the cab. We are going to need to drill a hole in these locations for rivet nuts to help hold these moulding mounts into place.