Garage Shop: Tools

I know you posted this years ago but curious as to why the Makita Impact was so high praised? What did you like so much about it?

 

I know you didn't address to me but thought I could reply as well.

I used DeWalt tools at my work, they were there when I started so I stayed with the system. They held up well in an industrial environment. DeWalt also made adapters so you could use your old tools with new batteries so a point to them.

That said I respected the tools but didn't like them much. It seemed to me that they consistently fell down on the ergonomic side.

Examples:
The new tools come with a "fuel gauge", 3 or 4 small lights recessed in the battery that show the state of charge when you push the button, only when you push the button. The button is recessed right next to the lights -- try holding the tool, pushing the button and keeping your hand out of the way all at the same time. Sure you can do it and it works but why didn't they do it a bit better?

The DeWalt drills never came with a belt clip, don't know if it was an option.

Silly things like hard edges directly under your hand grip, and poor weight balance that just make the work day longer.
To round out my bashing of some very reliable tools, I never used any DeWalt cutting tool that didn't seem to be designed to blow sawdust in my face.

My personal tools are Makita with the same light/push button setup -- except the lights stay illuminated 4 or 5 seconds after you push the button. My almost 20 year old Makita drill came standard with a sturdy belt clip, so handy almost every time you use the tool, my 2 year old impact driver came with the same.

The Makita impact driver has a small light to illuminate the work, just touch the trigger briefly and the light will stay on a few seconds as you line up your bit.

The Makita tools feel nice and balanced in the hand, I feel are better thought out and have superior ergonomics -- overall it is a nice tool to use.

Not wanting to start a with tool fan boys, just stating my observations over the years.

 

Hey I appreciate the thorough response man!
Ergonomics is huge. I've been using Ryobi tools for years now, and I do love them. I know the hardcore guys probably bash Ryobi but, I like what they make. Honestly for the biggest reason you mentioned, ergonomics.

I might have to check out some Makita stuff as well. Thanks.

 

Glad to help.
The Makita stuff costs a good bit of coin, right up there with comparable Milwaukee and DeWalt tools.

It has been a few years since I researched these but when I did in the 18 volt line Makita and Milwaukee only offered one family of tools each.

DeWalt on the other hand offered several 18 volt lines that at first glance looked almost identical but the prices could be double or more. I'm a specification digger and I dug in. The difference was in the gearing, the low priced models used plastic gearing, the high priced models used metal, the mid line used a mixture.

DeWalt also made it very difficult to compare the models, although the information was available it wasn't available all in one location nor was it presented in even remotely the same format between different tool models. This seemed to be by design in my opinion as it was just so obviously difficult to navigate and obtuse.

Additionally the way the tools were marketed as kits with drill, driver, charger and batteries was again obtuse. Say you decided that #-- was the best impact driver, it might only be packaged with a low line drill or the lowest capacity batteries for example.

Many people when faced with confusing or difficult to obtain information will select a more expensive model "to make sure they get a good one", perhaps that is part of their marketing strategy.

As cordless tools now seem to be marketed as bare tools with batteries separate the marketing angle might be less important.

 

Took a ride to HF after work on Friday and bought two sets of "wheel stud pilot pins" and 4 small (4" round) magnetic trays. Cars have 4 wheels, I don't know why one set comes with only two pins of each size.

 

Why would you need more? You use two per wheel but since you are only one person and can only work on one wheel at a time you therefore would only need two pins.

Or is there something I’m misunderstanding regarding how these are used?

 

If I'm taking all 4 wheels off at a time (which is usually the case) then I need four, one per wheel.

 

My understanding is that you use two per wheel, not just one. There’s no reason for pins to be on the hubs you’re not actively working on.

1. Loosen all wheel bolts.
   
2. Remove two wheel bolts from one wheel.
3. Install two pins in place of the bolts you just removed.
4. Remove remaining bolts, then remove the wheel.
5. Repeat with remaining 3 wheels.

Then to install wheels:

1. Install two pins on one hub.
   
2. Place wheel on pins/hub.
3. Install wheel bolts in the empty holes not filled with the pins. Remove pins and then install remaining bolts in those two spots.
4. Repeat with remaining 3 wheels.
   

 

You only use 1 at a time to aid in installing a single wheel at a time. No reason to even use the 2, I think it’s supplied as a spare.

 

My thought is that I don't want to remove a wheel bolt install the pin and then remove the wheel bolts and the wheel, then take the pin out and repeat the process on another wheel. I'd like to remove a bolt, install the pin (leave it there) and move on to the next wheel leaving a pin in each hub. I will see if my method works the way I think it will.

 

I was really puzzled on what the fuck these were used for only to learn that some hubs are studless and use bolts to attach the wheel to the car. Learn something new every day I guess.

My new garage addition which I still need to install:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Compared to my old one I broke... rofl:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

I'm desperate for one on my tool bench.

 

I'm gonna preface by saying there's I think there is no "right way" to do the locating studs for wheel bolts and whatever workflow works for the individual user is the true "right way" to use them

-With no studs, the wheel has infinite degrees of freedom relative to the mounting surface and before seating on the hub bore. When trying to put it on, it's just floating in space until it gets on the hub

-With one stud, before seating onto the hub bore, the wheel then has one rotational degree of freedom around that stud and one degree of freedom to move axially along the stud. So you could slide a wheel on and would just need to rotate it about the locating pin accordingly to get the hub to line up

-With two studs, the rotational degree of freedom is eliminated and now you only have can translate the wheel along the studs until it seats on the hub. However, you have to line up the two studs at once while holding the wheel floating in space

World according to y=mx+b: two studs of unequal length combines the ease of getting the wheel on a single stud at a time, while also gaining the stability of two studs when seating the wheel to the hub

 

Used the pins just now. Makes it easy to do a quick rotation without having to swap pins back and forth.

 

6 pointer extended length flex head ratcheting wrenches. Say that 5 times fast​

 

Finally mounted my vise to my welding table after like 3 years lol

 

Great. Just when I don't need to spend money.

 

Previously mentioned in here was “Neighbor Doug” from a video on Hometown Acres YouTube channel.

Doug now has his own channel….. One Eye Customs
https://youtu.be/m8xzrVyTBdEhttps://youtu.be/m8xzrVyTBdE

 

I

I did a similar thing with a high flow bathroom fan in my basement when staining trim in the winter. Plastic drop cloth made the paint booth. Those pre filters are very important to not create a mess of your fan or the outside of your building.

If you notice those fumes / debris would be blowing on anyone who walks into that shop just outside the door.