Ripped rear ABS/wheel speed sensor wire

I’m not sure you’d have room for these and when I’ve use them I stagger but maybe these would be an option (nice to have for other projects too) -

300 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors Qibaok Heat Shrink Butt Connector Butt Splice Electrical Waterproof Insulated Terminals for Marine Automotive Boat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08P...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

 

These do work well. I was going to suggest them too but I don't think there's enough wire on the plug side to use them.

 

Yeah, there might not be enough, definitely not enough to stagger them.

 

Did you break the actual sensor or tore the wire? Did you have to use tech stream to clear the trouble codes?

We re pinned the plug and put it back in and I’m still getting the dash messages… We didn’t mix up the wires either. I tried using tech steam to clear codes but of course needed a new key for some reason. It was getting late and I was in my underground so no internet. Will come home today and generate a new key. Hopefully I can clear the messages and all will be good.

 

Sensor was broke.
Took it to the dealer for warranty but they wouldn't do it so I paid the diagnostics fee and drove it home. They tried telling me that the codes would have to be cleared by them, whatever... Took it home, plugged a new sensor I ordered online, and voila! Codes cleared on their own, no dashboard lights at all.

BTW, i pulled the codes before I took it to dealer on my own. They were:
============1==============
C1408
Raw code: 5408
ECU: ABS control unit #2
Status: Confirmed

============2==============
C1A50
Raw code: 5A50
ECU: Radar cruise control/Pre-collision safety
Status: Confirmed

 

Did you drive the truck? After a speed sensor repair, usually the system won't turn off the light until it sees a valid speed signal from the sensor.

 

Quick update:

Buddy and I used butt connectors but for some reason it still wasn’t working, must have been a kink somewhere upstream the wire or something.

Ordered a new OEM harness from Toyota parts direct, 270$CAN all in, dealer wanted 370$. Delivery took 14 days, not bad.

Took me about 45 mins to replace the harness, was a bit tight but very doable. Everything working great now!

Thanks @Bishop84 for advice on the harness replacement.

 

Fixed!

 

Hey I am having the same issue. Got the new harness but can't figure out how to reinstall the harness as there's this piece that I can't figure out how to remove.

 

PM incoming.

 

This is the reason I got these. Cheap insurance IMO

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/05-current-toyota-tacoma-sdhq-built-billet-abs-guards

 

Yep, not a bad idea.

 

I had a very similar problem a few years back. All I did was re-pin at the connector and spliced back into the wire. Im pretty sure that I have some extra connectors as spares in my electrical box. Let me know if you need em..

EDIT: Unsure if jumping the DLC for ABS codes as it's done on the 2nd gen will work on the 3rd gens

check out the thread I made about the repair..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-bad-rear-wheel-bearing.561813/#post-18396971

 

I posted above that we did re pin the connector but it still didn’t work. Post #24 and #27. Must’ve been a kink or something upstream.

 

Happy you were able to fix the issue. I'm putting this here incase anyone needs to remove pins from connectors. This is cheap and makes working with connectors super easy without damaging the pins.

$10 Maerd Terminal Removal Tool Kit 76Pcs Electrical Connector Pin Removal Tool Terminal Ejector Kit Depinning Tool for Automotive Car

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LQG4YHN?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_3ACYQKFH06MF9SHB0YPT

 

Hey buddy, sorry to resurrect an old thread. But did you replace the harness without lifting the bed? Any pointers? I have to replace my harness but I have a go fast camper on my truck and it’s gonna make it a pain.