japjoe7 audio build thread

Got the 6600, adapter harness and Maetro wired up last night. It initially looked like a daunting task with all the wires but I went one wire at a time and it was so simple. Idk know people can mess it up, it's literally color for color. Took Monday off so I have a full 3 day weekend to hopefully get everything wired up and working.

 

Could you make a set for some Morel 6x9's? DM me if you would and we can discuss a price and shipping to NC

 

On another note, was discussing with my father getting a sheet of Baltic birch since he does wood working and asked him if he could find some place that sells it. In the mean time I reached out to mrmarv and was discussing with him making a enclosure for me, super nice guy. To my surprise it was going to be way cheaper for him to make and ship to me than I thought. Just as I'm about to pull the trigger with mrmarv my father, in his infinite wisdom, just goes ahead and orders a $125 sheet from someone. I don't even know if he got the right stuff. Now I gotta wait for the sheet to come in and see if it's actually euro Baltic birch and not some shit like Home Depot sells. I do appreciate my father doing that but he tends to buy stuff without asking me first. UGH!

 

MrMarv is awesome. I had him do some 6.5 speakers mounts for me. I stained them but may be going with a different speaker now so they prob will collect some dust but they looked amazing from the birch

 

just had to ask, i've got about 2k audio links

use the first one, 6-db/octave for a capacitor-only crossover.
https://www.v-cap.com/speaker-crossover-calculator.php

so you're at 1.8khz? in my experience, that's somewhat low if you like rocking out loud. if these are rear-fill, probably better around 3-5khz.

fyi: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xUqBB4FiOQ

personally, i splurged a number of years ago, and got a hakko fx888. i got the analog knob version, now they 'updated'(made worse) it to a digital screen/buttons.

honestly, it's the best soldering iron i've ever used. i used to have one of the cheap weller/radioshack one's that just plugged in to the wall outlet. no control, it took half an hour to warm up, and in another half hour was so hot i could barely hold it, and was melting the fiberglass circuit boards i was trying to solder to. now, the hakko heats up in about 5 minutes, holds the temp i set it to, and i can (and have) soldered for hours with zero issues.

almost every difficulty i ever had with soldering was really attributed to using those crappy non-adjustable irons that never held any temp.

that video review touches on all the aspects to look for. anything with a ceramic element, and feedback/temperature control will be just as good.
even this one looks to better than the ryobi

$10 Soldering Iron Kit, 80W 110V LCD Digital Solder Iron Pen with Ceramic Heater, Portable Welding Tools with 5pcs Tips, Stand, Solders Wire, Sponge, Paste, for Metal,Electric Repairs, DIY

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Di...kko+soldering+iron,industrial,77&sr=1-20&th=1

 

I rarely listen to my music loud. I’m using the capacitors strictly for bass block, no crossover. I’ll be setting my crossovers via the Helix DSP. I just wanted a physical backup just in case I screw something up with the DSP.

I def. need a better solder iron, it’s been a real PITA. That one you linked looks good, I’ll check it out.

Been doing a lot these past 3 days, still not done though. I’ll update my thread tomorrow.

 

a backup is good. i always set my amps up with a higher crossover setting just in case as well. makes it easier to have fun and harder to muck it up!

 

Got lost of scratches and cuts on my hands this weekend. Got the receiver in, right passenger door, and right rear passenger door sound deadened and wired. also, partially deadened the rear wall and cut the amp rack to proper dimensions. Didn't take much pictures since I trying to get shit done. Just ordered some cheap Morel Maximo Ultra Coax for the rear for the time being, just needed for rear fill.

I'm usually pretty organized and a perfectionist but this was really testing me. I start to get messy when I'm tired.

 

The effort looks like it is paying off. Well done sir.

 

I too am finding it difficult to be a perfectionist especially when it comes to sound deadening/ noise barrier. It is such a painstaking process and there is always something in the back of my mind saying 'is this really even worth it?' My interior has been completely gutted for a week now. woof.

We have fairly similar equipment going in so I'm following along with your build. Also I'm documenting mine so I plan to do a build thread as well maybe on diyma. The factory head unit will be my week link but I want to see how much I can eq the signal with the m six dsp before I throw in the towel. I would imagine we will get to the tuning stage around the same time though so I'll stay tuned. Keep up the good work!

 

Just junk the factory head unit. I'm about there myself along with tossing the kicker key in the trash for something better.

 

Initially I wanted to use the stock head unit and use high level but after doing some more research and asking some question on diyma, it's not going to work. Mostly because the all pass filter they put in place on the stock receive is so hard to get around. @SkizeR is a pro and he said to get an aftermarket receiver. I'm not bucking that suggestion from him. Also, honestly I'm not all that looking forward to tuning. It's a complicated process and not straight forward with a Helix but I'm willing to learn. In the end I'm going to have @SkizeR do a remote tune. Thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated!

Thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated!

 

I think you're doing fine with the Key it's just cumbersome with it's setup and figuring out how to wire it. Although those CTD's need more power than the key will give them. The same reason I got the Helix for my speakers. I've got 100wx6 on hand so plenty of power for my Focal's. Doesn't help you have the heat to deal with either lol.

 

If you end up replacing the Key i would likely be interested in it. I have a setup that would match perfectly with it power wise.

 

Been pretty busy, haven’t had time to do much. Terminated the ground last night. Pro tip - to keep all the wires bound nice and neat wrap the wire with some dental floss and it’ll slide on the lug easily with no loose strands.

 

Aww shit, 3/4” Baltic birch sheet came in. Gunna be a few weeks until I start the box though.

 

God damn…I understand why they charge so much labor to put these systems in. Fuck this, this shit is for the birds! Got some wiring done on the rack and rear speakers in. I already know I’m replacing the 1/4” expanded PVC board with ABS. Not happy with the board. Rear speaker rings are temporary. When I get sturdier speaker adapters I’ll put the Soundskin speaker rings in.

 

I just assumed your Mr. Marv sub box would have an amp rack.

 

I didn’t care for the aesthetics of the wood amp rack. I’d rather have black ABS to blend in better. I’ll also be either painting the sub enclosure or carpeting it.

 

How or what method did you use to cut the sail panels for the tweeters and are you going to glue them flush after? Also, what did you use to cut or trim the rubber grommet for the power wires? I used the same location.