How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

Do I need to go with a $200 OEM part for this or will a Timken from RockAuto for half the price hold up?

 

I've been running the Spicer center bearing mentioned in this thread for a year with no issues. $70 at Amazon

$100 Spicer 211750-1X Center Bearing

https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-211750-1X-Center-Bearing/dp/B00GAPFD2E

 

Thanks boss.

 

Appreciate this thread. Gotta order the stake nut still.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c11QoDqnjs4

 

I just ordered one from my local dealer. Part number 9017918009

 

Not sure if it matters now @Fatal_Paradox but it seems like you misunderstood the order and put the 2 small washers on before putting the CB on. But mine was like listed above and show in the pic in the other post I quoted:

carrier bearing>spacer>spacer>drive flange>thick washer>nut. Just like this scan below.

 

welp. Its been working so far... LOL

 

So the part numbers I was given above did not come up as a fit for my truck, but it seems many of you have used that part number before. I looked up the part number in the schematic and got 90080-17083 listed for my truck instead. I figure they are cheap enough, why not get both for a side by side comparison?






The part number that is actually listed for my truck looks like it is going to be much more difficult to stake. And the part I took off the truck looks much more like the part number everyone else provided, at least by memory.

 

A quick look on Beaver Toyota's site shows the 9017918009 is for a 1st gen and 9008017083 is for a 2nd gen.

I have not compared the two nuts, only reporting what I read on their site.

 

Ya'll are replacing the nut?

 

I was driving down the highway and the wheels stopped spinning but the rpms went up when I stepped on the gas. I turned it off and it didn't want to start anymore and sounded as if something was not catching it's thread. This happened about a year ago and I think mechanic said it was some sort of coupling, he changed numbers and I can't get a hold of him. About 3 years ago, had an old man emu leveling kit installed (extra leaf springs in back and coils in front and other parts that came with lift). Checked underneath but didn't notice anything broken with the driveshaft. 4 cylinder, 4x4, automatic transmission 2.7 2001 xtracab. Hope somebody can help if it's happened to them

 

Hey I suggest starting a new thread for your question. You'd get better help that way.

 

My CB and flange just fell right off after removing the nut. No puller needed

 

Is it worthwhile to replace anything else while you're doing this job?

 

All the u-joints on the driveshaft.

 

imo don't do the u joints unless you have vibration problems or they are clearly worn out. The OEM toyota u joints are really good and last a long time if properly lubed.

 

Yeah, have fun with that. PITA little buggers... Here you go, in case anyone is interested. Personally, I'd rather drop it off at a shop along with replacements (0437160070) and pay them to do it.

 

Not hard to do at all - just need the right tool to press them out and in.

EDIT: A c-clamp style press is the tool I use. Much easier than the drawings show.

 

Yeah, lets see... I have the following:

$176 Powerbuilt Ball and U Joint Service Set, 23 Piece Tool Kit, Remove and Install Ball Joints, Receiving Tube, Adapters, Sockets - 648617

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028QGT86/

$141 OTC 6295 Front End Service Set for Pitman Arms, Ball Joints, and Tie Rods

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH7O/

While it can be done, its a PITA. Be careful you don't drive it out too far or its a pain in the ass to line it back up when driving in the opposite direction.

Some have talked about

$92 OEMTOOLS 24539 Automotive U Joint Puller, U Joint Removal Tools, U Joint Tool Works On Most Passenger Vehicles and Light Duty Trucks, Easy-to-Use U Joint Puller

this tool, haven't tried it yet. Like I said, I'm past it.
Drop it off, have someone else who is setup in a shop and replaces them everyday do it. Less hassle for me.