Man, have I got a problem(s).

I make it a habit not to judge other people for their purchases. My Taco is not my DD and regularly sits parked for three or four weeks at a time, generally next to a Classic VW Which has been parked in the same place behind my garage since last October. I'm blessed to have multiple vehicles (seven at last count, three of which are classic cars from the 60's, plus a couple of motorcycles). All run and drive however I generally use the one which makes sense for whatever purpose I need it for at the time. Last week, while I was playing 'Mr Mom' for my GF's kid while she was ill, the Taco saw some use since it was more fun to drive in otherwise boring circumstances. Generally though I only use my Taco for four-wheeling and multi-state road trips.

 

Here is one with data logging for intermittent issues. Like if a pump or something keeps coming on, you can catch it.
You can keep it on the main and see if something keeps coming on through the night.

$49 BTMETER BT-7200APP TRMS 6000 Counts Clamp Multimeter, Digital Clamp-on Ammeter for AC/DC Current Voltage Resistance Capacitor Frequency Continuity Temperature NCV Meter

https://www.amazon.com/BTMETER-BT-7...rent+clamp+meter+logging,industrial,50&sr=1-5

 

Also OP, do u have an OBD2 dongle plugged in?

 

No I don’t. I’ve used it in the past for tuning though. A couple of OV tunes and then the Magnuson tune.

Does anyone have a link showing what the official current drain should be?

 

Homeboy in that video talks about “average” drain. Imo 40-50 sounds about right.

 

I've been through the official Toyota material and did not find anything specific for key-off draw, not even a range. Quite a bit on current for bench testing sensors, but not overall parasitic draw. It's going to vary widely depending on what options you have, hence the reason I checked mine for future troubleshooting purposes.

To avoid waking modules, I clip one lead on the terminal lug, probe tip on the battery post, then lift the loop off the post. You can pull fuses at random sure, but don't reseat them as that will often wake a module. The other option is to use the fuses as a current shunt. If you have a good meter, 20,000 count or more, you can measure the voltage drop on the fuses to estimate the current flow through the fuse. See table below.

 

He's looking for .075 (75ma) amps so that chart won't be much help.

 

Did you verify the battery that it is still good? Even if it only happened once it may need to be replaced. Depending on how much the battery got drained. It might not be taking the charge.

 

The chart is mA, it was specifically created for finding parasitic draw. Also why you need a good meter to measure down to 0.1mV accurately (0.0001V) for it to be of much use.

 

That was me when I had 87 Camaro with a fried starter and had no money to replace it. Was going on for about 2 months.

 

It would be a good idea to check all the engine compartment grounds. I would also unplug the 2wd Low switch just to see if that has any effect as its on add on.

 

Yeah, I'm also having a hard time finding out what my truck should draw with the key off. The numbers I'm coming across online are all over the map. I read on one site that normal parasitic draw is around 50 mA but on new cars it can range from 30-85 mA! I just called the local Toyota dealer to ask them but got voice mail.

What year is your truck and what draw did you measure when you checked it?

Maybe I really don't have a problem and just need to replace the battery after it sat in a cold garage for two winters. I'd just like to KNOW the factory current draw spec. before doing anything. Maybe I'll go to the dealer today and try to strong arm a number out of them. I HATE going to dealerships.

 

2020 Offroad - has premium and advanced tech package, so it should have every module possible. (Edit: except the glass break sensor and module) After a couple days of sitting I measured 9.5mA with brief spikes to 11mA.

I have recently added a redarc brake controller. If I get time I will take more detailed values. Drive a bit and then measure at various time intervals to see when modules start to sleep.

 

Oh yes, sorry, you gave me that info before.

Our trucks are very comparable in options.

Maybe I should leave the meter on the battery for a day or so.

 

Hood open, doors closed, unlocked, key 15ft away:
Sitting a week or so: 8.6mA
Time after key-off:
2min: 260 mA
5min: 251 mA
10min: 253 mA
20min:. 16.4 mA (center display with mileage had just turned off)
30min: 15.8 mA

 

Thanks bud.

I put a new Interstate in the 'ol girl today. I've got plans to take the truck out on Sunday and I'll repeat the draw test after that. Maybe this is all for nothing and this is all caused by a bad battery that's spent two Northern Michigan winters in a cold garage not being driven much. Not to mentioned being completely drained once.

But I can't image seeing a higher draw coming from a weak battery as opposed to a new one. That just doesn't make sense to me.

Oh, and FWI, I was able to talk to a Toyota mechanic today (I'm sorry.....TECHNICIAN) and according to him they consider anything over 50mA to be troubling.

 

Mine was changed (no questions asked) under warranty with Toyota 5 year battery. Truck was two years old. Have you asked your dealer if they'd cover it?

 

https://youtu.be/bAy_qezM12Q