OEM Tailgate Auto Lock - Wiring Diagram?

I’ve been searching with no luck - does anyone have a wiring diagram for the OEM rear tailgate auto lock? I am looking to tap into the lock signal wire for my ARE topper’s auto lock feature. Since I already have the wiring harness ran to the tailgate for when installing the OEM tailgate lock, figure that it by far the easiest way to tap into it. Unfortunately the lock install instructions don’t specify.

 

PM @daveeasa, he might have something to sell ya. Plug, no Cut.

 

Yeah, @Puppypunter and I did exactly what you describe. I have extra connectors.

 

So you have connectors that run in-line and expose wires to run to the cap/topper for power and lock/unlock? This will work with my 2020 TRD OR w/ the OEM tailgate lock and wiring? How do I purchase?

 

I think harass me until I list it in the T harness section of fbchs.square.site

And chime in on if you are good with a 12” T or you want a yard or longer? I used my OG pop-n-lock wire for mine. But any two conductor will work. I’d probably do a standard 12” with labels on blue and green and I’d just have to remind myself to figure out which is lock and which is unlock.

 

I looked for a photo and didn’t see one on my phone. Out of town but flying home tonight.

 

Various T Harnesses listed on your site, but I dont think this one... I guess longer wire the better just in case.

 

Yes, you keep pestering me until I add it. I would first build one and get a good photo of it for the item page. It’s not listed today.

length would either be 12” or your spec. Longer is better may be true but it’s difficult to know what longer means without a number.

I’m tempted to make a basic T and let people supply their own 2 conductor. I think that’s the smart play. Then heat shrink butt connectors to attach to the T.

 

Placeholder for now. Don't think I'll get to it tomorrow but it's possible. Flying home super late tonight and I have a few on-menu items to get out tomorrow.

https://fbchs.square.site/product/t...-harness/30?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=true

 

Sounds good - Will pick one up (and measure length of wire I need) add soon as you have it posted!

 

One other question - Are you able to get switched power on this T harness as well (for the interior light in the cap)?

 

No, best source for unswitched power is a T of the 7 pin (I don't make/sell one of those yet but the ball has begun rolling from others on that).

There is no clean ignition switched power in the back of the truck. I haven't even run this for my own shell's light nor have I installed matt gecko strip lighting on either of my shells but that's the plan.

The bed light circuit should be able to handle 1-2 amps but that's all at your own risk. Then you'd just flip the cargo switch to activate/deactivate.

 

I didn’t read all the good replies, but I did this on my topper and if I recall, there’s only two wires. I cut and soldered extension wires for both and ran them to my topper harness (across frame to driver side and up behind taillight), tried it and swapped the connections on my topper latch when I found they were backwards.

Getting the polarity right for the lock/unlock cycle is a 50/50 shot you can easily fix if you get wrong, so long as the topper has spade connectors going onto the locking mechanism.

Maybe I’m misremembering and there’s an extra wire on the factory tailgate lock wiring, if so I can go take a picture.

 

Just two wires. Ideally I color match and label. My mission is to take a little bit of the work off your plates.

 

All good things for sure. I’ve had too many vehicles that the previous owners had tried their attempt at wiring/etc when they had no right messing with it, resulting in mass problems with gremlins.

Proper kits make a distinct difference for plenty of folks looking for customization without needing to specialize in that skill.

I have a background of electrical circuits, among things, so I like to cause my own problems

 

Listed:

https://fbchs.square.site/product/t...true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=7

 

Clean option to get this done, right on.

 

The reason I’m thinking simple tap is that you probably would want to use the pop n lock connectors to match up clean at the lock. So all that’s needed is to marry up two wires w supplied heat shrink butt connectors.

I could use some confirmation on wire colors, I’m going off my setup only for now.