Lift Newbie (2") - What Do I Need to Know

Hey all, hope everyone is doing well.

So I'm thinking about lifting my front end with some OME 887 Coils, and thinking about lifting the back end with some Icon 1.5 AAL's (Progressive I think, which should supposedly give me a less harsh ride than with the stock overload springs on.

Wanted to ask some of you guys who have done lifts, since I'm just trying to get an idea of what to expect. Wanted to know if I needed to do a diff drop or anything like that. From what I'm hearing, UCA's aren't necessary unless you're going over 2", is that correct?

I already have OME Nitrocharger 90021 Soft Valved Front struts and the Nitrocharger stocks for the rear, and am still getting a stiff ride, which I could probably attribute to the fact that I used my stiff factory springs. Hoping the 887's and AAL's will bring be a little better ride than the stock TRD Sport Suspension, which is my main reason for wanting to put the softer 887 springs on.

Also wanted to ask: are 2" springs in the front and 1.5" AAL's in the back enough to clear 285/70/R17's? Thinking about putting some bigger tires on some TRD Pro Wheels to match the lifted look. Hoping I won't run into issues rubbing. Anyone have any experience with this particular type of lift and these size tires? Thanks.

Also, what have you guys done in terms of reprogramming for bigger tires? I currently have 265/70/R17's on now so the speed currently isn't accurate, but I am trying to get an idea for when I possibly get some 285's. Would my local auto shop be able to do it for me? Or a tire shop? Or would I have to buy some special adapter?

Thanks guys, I appreciate your input in advance.


Brooks

 

You can run stock UCAs with 2” lift, no diff drop needed. Might need to do ECGS bushings or 4* shim for rear axle to avoid vibrations. It seems to be hit and miss with Tacoma’s, so you might not even need anything. I did 2” lift and kept my stock needle bearings but had to do 4* shim to stop minor vibrations I was getting.

You will need to do CMC to fit 285s, can always do 255/80/17 which is a true 33” and no cutting required.

 

Yeah, clearing 285s is more about width that height.

 

Hypertech makes a speedo correction module you need to program and install inline with the instrument cluster to correct for tire size. Rough Country has one too which is exactly the same as the Hypertech. It is just a rebranded Hypertech but cheaper. I went with the Rough Country. Easy to program. Suggest you leave the USB connected and drop it down by the foot well for easy access in the future instead of tearing your dash apart to make adjustments. Edited to add that this is the only option for our trucks. Dealer cant change anything in the ECU.

 

Really appreciate the input. Didn’t think I would have to do a diff drop or UCA’s but just wanted to make sure. As for the bushing, are you referring to pulling the needle bearing for the cv axle out of the knuckle and replacing it? I don’t think I have any sort of weird vibration on my 2018 Trd Sport @ 79k, so would you really recommend it in that case? As for the shims, where would they need to go? Would they be for the rear axle or am I just getting things messed up?

if they’re really that worth it I may consider it, but it seems like installing the bushings or shims might be a little tricky…

 

Thanks for all the input, means a lot. 255s might be the better bet for me, don’t really feel like cutting the cab mount and then having someone weld a new plate in… looks I can get them in that size for falken wildpeak at3w’s or toyo OC AT3’s both of which I am considering.

wanted to ask- Will the icon AAL soften the rear end up a little if it goes in place of the factory overload spring?

On another note, I don’t think my first gen tundra had them, but it sagged a little more in the back (no big deal) but I feel like the rear ended in that truck rode better unloaded too…

 

Factory needle bearing (drivers side CV) typically goes bad after the lift. Not all the time, but frequent enough many change to a clamshell bushing while you have the front suspension apart. Yes, shims are for rear axel but I’d wait on those to see if you need them.

 

Yeah. Seems reasonable. I mean would it be more worth it to do a diff drop, since wouldn’t that put the diff in the stock position? The bushing sounds worth it but just can be a royal pain in the ass from what I’m hearing… just worried I’m gonna f something up

 

I’ve liked the Icon AAL.

 

No, the general consensus is that diff drops provide little if any benefit. It’s not a guarantee that the needle bearing will fail, but it’s a $60 part and you might be able to find the tool. It’s adding about 30 minutes for someone that knows what they are doing at that point while everything is apart. Probably a 2+ hour job by itself if you put everything back together and it fails.

 

Read the links in my Sig:

https://youtu.be/QqgIMEb705I

 

Yeah, definitely makes sense, I’m not really a risk it kind of person, and the peace of mind would prolly be enough for me. Sounds doable, might be a pain in the ass, but I’m more afraid of screwing something up.

Do most of you guys replace your axle seals too, or is there an easy way of getting the axle and bearing out, plus getting the new bushing in without f’ing up the seal?

As for the tool, does anyone have ones I could borrow? I would rather not spend money buying them since they seem kind of expensive, if some cool TW member would loan them to me. If anyone would want to ship them out to me, I’ll pay for shipping, use them and then send them back.

If not, worse case then I can just buy them I guess…