2002 Tacoma issue pulling inclined grades at normal speed. TYIA

Located in Ky and new to the Tacoma World and I appreciate you guys accepting me to be here!
Well I finally got me a Tacoma 02 TRD Offroad 4wd ... It ain't much compared to most you guys but I'm happy to have one.
When on the highway, everything seems good until I hit a steep incline. I can hit the incline at 60-65 and before I top out I'll be going 40-45 with zero change in the RPM. When I press the gas a little more trying to build speed , my truck stays around the same 2000-2500 RPM (instead of kicking down and getting more RPM). It wont start to pick up the pressure I apply to the gas until it tops the hill at this point I can feel and hear the engine open up). There's no slipping or any issues with the Automatic Tranny that I can feel or tell . It seems more like the air/gas ratio or something is not telling the tranny to kick down or the engine to open up?
The only time there's any power issue is when on a incline. It's a 3.4 with automatic tranny . I don't expect a lot of speed when going up hill but I can sense something is wrong.
Any advice will be truly appreciated. I have some knowledge of part swapping etc.

Note: the tranny fluid is not low...
Thank you in advance!

 

I don't have an AT but that definitely doesn't sound right. Sounds like what happens if you hit a steep grade with a manual trans and don't downshift to maintain speed. Something up with the AT trans... @gearcruncher will have some great input for you

 

Thank you!

 

Stepping on the throttle only gives it more air.

How much extra weight are you carting along?

Are you running larger then stock tires?

It has been years since I was down there so your idea and mine of a steep incline might be far apart.

Are you talking interstate or 2 lane state or local roads?

I have the 5 Speed 3.4 loaded with 1000 pounds and towing another 2000 or so I have more then enough to climb hills.

I never learned to drive a automatic transmission so I am clueless there.

 

Does more air equal more gas as well? Sorry I'm clueless so forgive me if that's a stupid question. (when on a incline it doesn't feel like I'm getting more anything when pressing down harder). When I top up then I get more power , zero kick down or change in RPM while its climbing up).

Zero extra weight.

The tires are off a 22 Tacoma TRD 265/70/17 i think.

I'm on the 4 lane so really not that steep of a incline RT.645/23.

 

It's likely that you need to inspect the kick down cable and adjust accordingly. The kick down cable attaches to the throttle body, and essentially tells the transmission how much load is on the throttle. The auto transmission and ECU will use that to determine if it should change gears.

But... you can also just manually select a lower gear. If you're in drive, and it's starting to feel sluggish up a grade, try turning OD off using the button on the shifter. This will essentially down shift into 3rd gear (L = 1st, 2 = 2nd, D = 3rd, OD = 4th gear.. there is a lock out condition too, but I think that only happens with OD on).

With a new to you truck- what maintenance have you done since you got it? There are some things which are serious to replace (lower ball joints - search around here for the proof pictures), and then the usual stuff, oil, plugs, wires, etc... AT Transmission Fluid is a tricky one of much misinformation. Traditionally most folks will tell you that if you haven't changed the AT Fluid after 70k to just leave it alone and drive it until it dies and replace the transmission at that point. This doesn't hold true for more modern AT's, and you should absolutely do a drain and fill to begin replacing the fluid. Keep in mind, that there is a difference between a drain and fill (draining the oil from the pan, and replacing exactly that amount through the dip stick tube) and a mechanical flush (a process with forces the new fluid into the system). Stay away from the powered flushes. A few drain and fills over a few 1000 miles should be enough to refresh the fluid sufficiently.

 

Andy , thank you so much! The only maintenance I have done thus far is new shocks , struts n coil springs, I inspected the ball joints etc and they are good. I also replaced the plug seal gaskets in the top of the valve pans and valve pan gaskets. I've changed the oil too. I will be doing a tune up as well. What plugs and wires etc would you recommend?

 

I would just replace the ball joints regardless if they look good. And put some OEM ball joints. As for plugs and wires I would go with toyota as well. Definitely a drain and fill on the AT. Good luck

 

I would just stick with the dual electrode Denso or NGK plugs that Toyota put in them. Actually, these rolled off the line with 3 Denso and 3 NGK spark plugs....to this day it's a mystery as to why Toyota did that

6 of one or the other is fine though

 

Just an additional word of caution on the lower ball joints. Unless you absolutely know they have recently been replaced with OEM ball joints, you should go ahead and change them. It's just not worth risking it.

Plugs, Denso or NGK twin electrode. Wires, people tend to go with NGK.

 

265/70-17s would be larger than stock. 32s. Stock on TRDs was 31" tires and the stock gear ratio would be 4.10s. 32s on a stock gear ratio will impact performance in an auto.

Verify the trans is capable of locking out over drive (turn off with the button) when you are cruising along at 60 mph.

 

Thank you Andy I will do that!
Digiratus I will give that a try as well...

 

Toyoda213 I will , thank you too!

 

With OPs 2002 auto trans, I believe when he steps on it, the cable actuated kickdown should change line pressure in the trans and make it downshift. Have you looked under the hood OP? Snap a picture of the cables at the throttle body so we can see if there's excessive slop in any of the cables. You probably have three: one for throttle, one for auto trans kickdown, and one off to the left for cruise control.

 

Oops, didn't see it was already covered. Damn my hasty good intentions.

 

That looks loose to me. There’s a little rubber piece on the cable that should extend out past the outer black guide by about 1mm. I’ll go grab a photo of mine soon.

 

OP, observe.

 

Definitely non-stock air intake tube. Can see if there is a stock airbox or not.

No cruise control eh? That's a bit surprising.

Almost looks a little misaligned as well.

 

MalinoisDad I see the difference there... TY

Digiratus The truck is CC equipped , guess it's missing the part under the hood that makes it work?