Stuck CV axle, tried everything for 10+ hours over the last week and nothing is working

The mid shaft can move in and out to accommodate suspension travel, meaning the inner cup could potentially walk out without the C clip and cause sever vibration by being half way out and bind up the shaft.

Neither end of the CV is "fixed" like a driveshaft is, the ends are the slip yokes.

Without the boots or either end the mid shaft just slides out of each axle end cup.

 

At GM we used to call the c clip a barrel ring. I used a pry bar. If that didn't get it I used a punch and hammer. If it was stubborn I had a slide hammer. They could be really easy, or a bitch....

 

Keep hope alive. Buy the large socket and remove the axle nut. It gives more room to work. The axle nut requires ~170 ftlbs (4 reassembly) so it’s an excuse to buy another torque wrench.

Are you doing the ECGS needle bearing mod while you are in there?

 

Never done one before...
Is rotating to find the c-clip sweet spot part of your technique?
I'm wondering if those who don't support it like you have done, need to rotate it, to get the c-clip to compress enough because it's bound from side loading from the weight?

 

Wrong side. I believe the OP is working on the right side?

The open end of the clip being up will has enough gap that the thickness of it interferes with the splines and can jam. If the opening is down, it is just its own spring pressure keeping it retained.

Supporting the shaft just allows the weight of it to not prevent backing out.

 

I could never figure out the C clip orientation so it wasn’t part of my technique. Fair point on support, duck tape cradle from the UCA holding it level and in-line probably helped the cause. In the end though the cable chokers with a hammer is basically just an improvised slide hammer (i.e. the proper tool) as long as you swing it straight.

Side note, I think that I only used one hand and about 2-3 ft swing. I do not recommend winding up for an Olympic hammer toss.

 

A wise engineer once said with the proper application of force a square peg will indeed fit through a round hole.

 

Things that have helped me remove stubborn CVs:

• 3' long pry bar
• One person using a slide hammer while the other person applies pressure with a pry bar
• One person using a slide hammer while two other people apply pressure with pry bars
• Use two pry bars, one in each hand, and simultaneously pry on each side of the CV to evenly pop it out.

In all these scenarios the pry bar is being used between the diff and axle to pry it outward. Some people put the pry bar in the notch and hammer outward. I've never tried this but I do do that in reverse when installing CVs.

You are correct in your thinking that you can leave the outer stub in the wheel bearing. The inner CV has enough plunge that you can pop out the inner CV. I've done this numerous times before, all you gain by removing the outer stub is being able to swing the hub assembly out of the way to give a little more room to work. Good luck.

edit: If you want to leave the outer stub in, use a jack stand under a wheel stud to hold the CV shaft parallel to the ground. That way you can get the axle out fairly straight.

 

You are not wrong, but a wise lady recently said that we have to be smarter than the tool. Haha!

 

For sure! Dropping the plate, makes it much easier…

 

While I was able to get the cv out with leaving the hub nut on, I would not do it that way again. You’ll have more space to work with things out of the way. Though just doing the seal it’s probably not a big of a deal, as long as there is space in the cv cups for the rollers or w/e they are called to move in and out. If the cv is compressed it’ll be fighting everything you’re doing.
I used a pry bar hitting with a dead blow type BFH at first… then switched to a metal 3lb hammer and that was enough to get it knocked out. Good luck!

 

Anyone ever tried putting a shim in opposite of the pry bar and going at it alone? Ive used a pry bar a couple times and although was a finesse type of task, I got them loose(on other vehicles). I would try the shim and a good pry bar that actually fits the task.... or get a friend with a second pry bar, so you can pull it equally from both sides.

 

When I goofed up the left side seal installation (over drove it and got a leak), I replaced it at home by myself. Used a large, long flat blade screwdriver and a 5lb hammer. It took a couple hits, but came free with no problem. Probably an hour total?