YotaWerx Tuning Services and Development

Did you do your own install\maggy flash or did you pay a shop to do the install\Maggy tune flash?

 

Ahhh Mat and his awesome process.

This should only be the 3rd or 4th email (1 day turn around) just to get a simple flash done.

 

I did the install myself.

 

Did you flash the Maggy tune initially? Have you changed computers or anything since then? You should be able to flash the new tune no problem. Hell I reformatted my computer between flashing the maggy tune, reinstalling vft wiping and doing a clean install of windows (not because of vft) then when YW released I flashed the new tune. Never had any hiccups. It really is supposed to be that easy. I hadn't connected vft to my truck since flashing the Maggy tune...

 

It seems like the timing of me updating has coincided-ish with changes made by Mat, somehow there was another change made after I flashed with the Maggy software and Mat updated the process again which did something on the VFTuner backend.

I get some people are really into updating the software on their trucks but man all I want is for the flash to flash without all the issues and drama.

 

That's what I'm saying though, the vft program changed after my initial flash as well, but I still had no problems...

 

@o313 ??? just an FYI - when you updated from 1.5.... to 1.6 you need to uninstall all of the VFT software (apps - uninstall) (not OpenPort) and there is one other file you need to delete (can't remember what the file name was - hopefully some will chime in like @Murd3rd or @toner)and then download / install the new VFT version from the server. If you did not do this you should. This could be your problem. GL

 

That may be what helped me out then. Because of my clean install of windows it wiped all the old vft files. So I started from scratch with a fresh vft install with no leftover files...hmmm...

 

i have a coworker asking about improvements for his 2020 Tacoma mt;

What is the cost for Yotawerx NA tune?
Can u tell me what the credits for his ecm cost?
if considering a SC, What is the cost for that tune?

Thank You,

 

See OP's first post on this thread for YotaWerx Tunes and Tune cost. No help here from me on cost of extra credits for ecu - ? maybe VFT for that.

 

FYI - I have a 20 Pro. Wescott Lift (2 inch) with AALs, on 285 75 16s. With Leer Topper and full Prinsu Rack. Normal driving is 17mpg on 93 octane. Not bad for 33s with full rack.

 

@mZiggy I started off with 3.0.5 AD Prem. I was very happy with the tune. Since Blackhawk has come out I've switched to the WW prem. It's more my style. Not as aggressive on the peddle. Easier to shift IMO. But the power and low end torque is still there when I want it (just gotta push down alittle farther). Keep doing good work!

 

Great to hear!

Driving around on the low end, it just pulls so nicely. Then, you hop on it and get a good laugh with the chirps. Haha!

 

I did that today by accident. Haha!

 

I only do it on accident LOL. Tires are expensive when Dad isn't buying them.

 

You know it!

 

Just went to check on my oil catch can. If you don't have a catch can, I suggest you get one. I should have taken a picture, but it basically had a mixture of oil, gas, and whatever else that was about 40% filled the can (jlt can from Amazon/small can). I have since upgraded with a mishimoto? brand that is much larger in volume. The YW tune has nothing to do with this, but with everyone focused on the great tune that has been provided....it might be a good time to check other things too!

 

This is good advice. These 3.5L engines have a ton of blow-by, even when naturally aspirated. I pulled my intake apart with 30k miles and everything was coated. It's a product of using

$52 0W-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W-20 oil and the valve covers not having good baffling. The JLT is a quick easy measure for N/A.

For any kind of forced induction, the blow-by WILL be worse. Something to think about with a supercharger: that contaminated oil mixture goes from your PCV valve on the driver valve cover directly into your intake manifold, BEFORE your blower. So all that nastiness runs through your supercharger and charge air cooler as it makes it's way through to the cylinders where it can be burned off. So not only is it coating your blower internals, but it's going to gunk up your charge air cooler over time, which is essentially a radiator, so this will reduce it's efficiency over time.

At a minimum, a single valve can on the PCV side is quick easy insurance for your expensive system. The JLT is plug and play (not sure on the mounting location on the supercharger), but the volume is small, so you will need to make sure you check it every few thousand miles. The good news is that the way your supercharger is set up with the PCV line after the throttle body and before the blower, it's always pulling whether under vacuum (idle) or boost. So you don't need a dual valve can. Turbos need dual valves since it's plumbed after the Forced Induction, but that's not relevant here.

For additional insurance you can add a can on the breather side as well. That's the hose running from the passenger valve cover to the intake tube. This side will not experience nearly as much blow-by as the driver side, as it's designed to allow the crankcase to pull air in to replace the air that the driver PCV is pulling out. That being said, it does still under some circumstances blow oil out into the intake tube since the supercharger will effectively suction it. The majority of your blow-by comes out the driver PCV side though.

And for anyone wondering, this oil is as virginiamarine stated. It's very, very contaminated and has water in it as well. NEVER put it back in your engine.

 

@virginiamarine and @JamesT , I agree totally with most of what has been expressed, and appreciate the thoughtful warning that the oil is reducing the efficiency of the charge air cooler! I am sure that is true, and appreciate the nudge.

One thing that I do not entirely agree with is the "NEVER put this back in the motor". OK so there is no good reason to put this in your engine, but your all caps statement got me thinking, so seizing the opportunity to elaborate.

The chemical reaction of combustion, produces copious amounts of water vapor. There is no avoiding this. This is the primary reason that engines die prematurely if you have a very short commute, as all engines have blow-by, and all combustion creates water (burning one gallon of gasoline produces about 1 gallon of water! Which equals a HUGE volume of vapor!); so your engine is being contaminated with water, at ALL times when running. The combatant to this, is that at normal operating temperature, the vapor stays vapor and exits the PCV system; is very important to get to running temperature regularly, as while the engine internals are cooler than this, that vapor is condensing to liquid water inside your engine, and falling into your oil.

By the way, part of why this gunk in the catch can is so offensively ugly, is simply because the catch can itself is never up to normal engine operating temperature. If it were, you wold NEVER see water in there. If you were to maintain your catch can at 250F, the "gunk" would simply look like your engine oil, no better, no worse.

The other contaminants you are seeing are also from combustion, but realize that the majority of blow-by contamination gets filtered out while being thrashed around in the turbulence inside the engine, ultimately ending up in your oil. If engines had zero blow-by, we could run far longer between oil changes.

So granted, no good reason to put this back into the engine; UNLESS you happen to have a self draining heated catch-can. In reality, the amount of water and contamination that your catch can is eliminating, will make a huge difference to preserving your charge air cooler; but represents only a tiny fraction of the total contamination from blow-by, most of which stays in your oil.

So agreed, do not put this back in the engine; but the contaminants caught in the catch can, probably are not even 5% of total blow-by contamination that entered into your engine block. Most contamination is only removed by changing your oil.