Right Rear is 1 inch higher than Left rear

Those leaf springs are not supposed to be flat... That is an issue. Does the lean change dependent on if the fuel tank is full or very low... like 1/4. or always present. Good luck.

Here is a link to read:

https://www.355nation.net/threads/leaf-springs-are-flat-what-should-in-replace-them-with.211205/

 

Looks like hitachi shocks + block spacer = flat leaves

 

Lol...
All, please direct all your questions to saint277 PM. Very helpful gentleman.

 

Do you think it would help if I just got rid of the blocks and get leaf springs with the lift I need

 

Ya blocks are questionable on the stock leaves. Did you torque everything at ride height? Have you offroaded or put a high load on those springs?

 

I'm don't know what you mean about torque at ride height, I you tubed how to lift and thats what I did and no I have not been off roading in it..
what are good shocks that are not to expensive

 

all suspension parts should be torqued a ride height, this basically means the weight needs to be on the wheels when the parts are tightened. What parts we recommend depend on what you want to do with your truck.

 

I am getting ready to buy a camper trailer so I'll need something that can handle towing I will probably do some off roading bit not much

 

I run

$187 RANCHO RS999915 Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly

RANCHO RS999915 on the front and RANCHO RS999319 with an icon rxt leaf pack on setting 2 on the back. You could also do an aal on the the rear. I like the ranchos, they have adjustable valving, 70mm bodies and aren't to expensive.

 

Stock leafs? Flat is normal, by design and desirable; the leafs in the pack are in equilibrium. 'Mustached' or reverse arch is bad.

Are you on a completely flat and level surface when measuring?

 

I noticed that as well. One side looks much worse than the other.

 

Factory shocks only have so much travel.
If you look in your pic you can see that the dirt lines show where your shock's used to sit when parked...
Low and behold that distance is the same height as your block.

Now lets picture what happens by design when that lift block is not in there on the factory setup,
when you put the truck on a lift or your tire is dangling over a pothole travelling down to the bottom.

You are at "full droop" and the leaf spring will stop the axle and tire before the shock hits bottom.

Now, you have installed a 3" lift in the rear, that will move the distance of the axle down (greater, by the block size)

But the shock you have, has been designed for the most comfortable (zone) to be where those dirt line match up.

But most important of all, the travel of the stock shock is not greater.

So now at full droop, it is the shock that is stopping the weight of your rear drivetrain.

And those shocks are not designed for that extended distance, and being the endstop.

Over simplified drawing.





But now you can see why your shocks are not going to last long now. That piston hitting the end rod bearing and dirt seal area at full droop.


I Know, basic questions and don't take it the wrong way but I have seen 4x4 shops occasionally forget about;
the direction of the angle on these types of blocks.
Hopefully you have the thinner ends of both the blocks pointed towards the front.
Right?

You are SURE the the centre bolts on the leaf packs are sitting in the holes/cutouts in the rear blocks?
And the pins in the centre blocks are seated in the holes on the spring perches on the axle?
Right?

You snugged up the U-bolts on the rear axle, then put the truck down on it's full weight.
Gave the truck a little wiggle THEN torqued down the U bolts in a star pattern.
Right?

Because of the weight of the battery, the left side droops and it's called the "Taco Lean".

The factory and aftermarket fix is to increase the height of the FRONT driver's side.
Factory method is a effectively longer spring on the driver's side.
Aftermarket is either a 1/4 to 3/8" spacer added where your existing block is,
Or adjustable shocks that move the spring higher.

So in this "kit" is there a difference in height between the two blocks on the front?

There should be....
and the "taller" one should be on the driver's side.
Right?


Ok, after all that.
If everything checks out at minimum you will just need new rear shocks
and if the front blocks are the same, slap the lift kit mfr,
and increase the driver's side front by at least 1/4" in height.

Rear blocks with the right shocks will not change your ride quality,
in fact the right shocks designed for the extra length at droop and at rest can improve the ride quality.
(well anything is better than the stock sport shocks anyways).

BUT this is where saving $$ on blocks bites you in the butt.....

That increased distance between the leafs and the axle centres gives it more "leverage" to twist your leaf springs into a S shape during acceleration and deceleration.

What does that mean?
Wheel Hop,
Increased risk of vibrations accelerating and decelerating,
Slight increase in wear on your U joints (Unless major vibration)

Also when using the more "economical" "kits" out there always eyeball you CV angles...

AND especially make sure the folds of the CV boot are not rubbing/touching.
Dirt rubbing between those flaps will wear open the boot and then all the grease comes out and if you don't notice in time you have to replace the CV joints.

Did your "kit" come with something to relocate the front sway bar? Did you check the sway bar does not hit the coil spring at full droop at the front?

 

Oh yeah, budget for new rear leafs after you get better shocks in the rear.

Stock leafs are not that great and don't last that long if you add weight to the back.

Look at Old man Emu and a few other for more economical but much better than stock replacement rear leafs.

 

mine have always been pretty flat. stock.

 

Wow that is a lot of info, both front blocks were the same I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to re check the rear blocks to make sure they are facing the right direction, I don't think the sway bar is hitting anything I will have to invest in some new shocks I appreciate all the info

 

When it comes to suspension... that is not even scratching the tip of the iceberg.

Look into (few threads on this site go over them in detail)

ECGS bearing if you're lifting more than 1.5" on the front for your drivers side needle bearing.

Upper control arms when you go past 2-2.5" in the front.

Front end alignment specs when you've lifted your front.

Rear end vibrations when lifting, drivetrain angles, carrier bearing drop vs angled shims.

Then look at what you really plan on doing with the truck most of the time...
but also take into account the some of the time stuff. or in the future.

Then take what you would like to budget, then accept the fact it is not enough.

Then the term "buy once, cry once" will have meaning.

General rules of thumb;

Everything about suspension is compromise.
The more you spend, it will be either much better in one area, and/or less compromises in other areas.
And if you don't pay attention to the buy once cry once,
you'll end up paying a lot more than you need to.

While you don't have to spend a fortune, look at the whole suspension system at once.

Height, Weight, travel, what you use it for,
vs,
how much more than you want to spend.

Spring length (and arch for leafs) determines vehicle height.
Spring rate is for the weight of the truck. Ie. 2400lbs of truck needs only 2400 lbs of spring force,
using too stiff a spring does not allow the shock to work.
too soft a spring rate overworks the shock and relies on the bump stops.
Shocks (with the proper spring rate) are what controls the ride quality.
Shocks need to have enough travel so they are not the bump or limit stops in the system, unless they were designed for it (very high end shocks).

 

Wow, so much to know / be concerned about when doing a lift! And I applaud those who have deep knowledge in this space. Good luck OP!