Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Both in stock on toyotapartsdeal, 264 each though

 

If you plan to stay stock width you could also get some dirt king arms. I absolutely loved mine. People can say it’s pointless all they want, but I tore a bushing sleeve out of my stock arms and that definitely wasn’t a fun time.

 

I planned on doing that but don't want to pay for it right now. Getting stuff to Canada can be a pain in the ass a lot of the time too. Plan is stick with a pair of cheap aftermarkets for the next little bit

 

If you are looking at lowers that are stock length I would also look at these from BTF. They moved the wheel forward 3/4” of I remember correctly. Not sure how much they are.

 

Thats right you have the older LCA kit, and Canada too for shipping and such. Hope you can get stuff easy enough. Otherwise, I'm one of us could help out some way.

 

Yeah, I coat calipers for a guy up there. Sometimes he gets them back right away, sometimes it takes a month. Yet, any time he ships to me it’s a week.

 

Should have a roller by the end of the day. Drive shaft is at the driveline shop getting dialed in. Gonna start on the brake plumbing next.

 

Gonna be sad to cover up all this beauty with wheels.

 

We stock 2gen lca's because they seize so often. Beck&Arnley brand - $280 cad

https://overlandoutfitters.ca/produ...er-control-arm?_pos=1&_psq=lower&_ss=e&_v=1.0

I can even ream them out for you if you want

 

Well she’s a roller. Driveshaft won’t be done till tomorrow. Rear brake lines are all done. Tomorrow I’ll put in the new SOS master cylinder that is for rear disc brakes. Then I’ll put in tees on the brake lines to bypass the ABS module then pressure bleed the whole system. Hopefully at that point it will drive.

Look ma… no spacers!!

 

I’m sure it’ll drive. Stopping on the other hand…..

 

Take some pictures of your abs delete if you don't mind, I'm curious about how you go about this. If I thinking right it's pretty easy but pictures would explain alot.

 

You were able to set the axle angle without the driveshaft? I guess I thought you needed the driveshaft to do it? I also don't know much.

 

To set the angle, it depends on what kind of DS you have. You will either match the output flange angle on the tcase, match the angle of the first shaft before the carrier bearing, or point it at the carrier bearing or tcase. The DS doesn't necessarily have to be present.

When I did my sua install, I didn't realize that the driveshaft length with the sua would be so much shorter at full extension though, so I had to get my custom DS shortened after installing the sua.

 

You set the pinion angle using the pinion flange, the drive shaft has nothing to do with it

 

I measured all my angles at ride height before I started. As Harry and others have said no DS needed after that. I did set my pinion angle to match the trans output shaft ujoint angle. I’m 2wd so I’ve got a longer drive shaft. (Giggity!) When I originally did my SUA. I had to shorten the drive shaft and add a slip yoke. Now the ford 9 is almost 2 inches shorter than the Toyota elocker 3rd. So now I’m having the drive line shop add 1.5 inches and add a 1350 ujoint to match up with the ford 9 yoke.

 

Here’s the tie in at the abs module. Real easy. They all bend real nice by hand to line everything up. The 2 front lines are the rear brakes and the 2rear lines are the front brakes. The input lines from the master cylinder are 1 size larger(m12x1.0) hence the silver reducer on the tees. The pic shows the module gone. But it’s going back in because I need the ECU to run my speedometer. When this project is done and working I intend to make a whole new thread outlining everything I did with pictures.

 

you gon’ need dis

 

Thats why I will be taking out all the lights that stay on. Problem solved.

 

The truck that has the most dash lights on wins