Let's See Some Softoppers

i b

i bought some random one on Amazon that seems to be working great

 

Hey all, just ordered a soft topper the other day, should be here in the next couple days. Got a few questions for you all, I'm sure some of this has been covered in this 300+ page thread but I don't have the time or energy to go through the whole thing. So here goes.

1. Is there a general consensus on the best way to attach the magnets to the rear flap so as to avoid having to use the velcro on the tailgate? I'm thinking maybe just wrap them in some sort of soft cloth material and gluing them to the inside of the flap? Also what magnets are working well for you all?

2. For the Reflectix guys, can you leave it mounted to the cross bars when you collapse the top or do you have to remove it first? Probably doesn't matter too much but just kind of curious. Also do they sell it in rolls the width of the topper or do you have to run multiple strips?

3. Lastly has anybody tinted the back window? What were the results, did it last? I imagine it would but not sure if the material or the rolling of the flap would cause it to de-lam or bubble at some point. I know ST sell tinted versions of the windows but figure it might be easier/cheaper to just get them tinted.

Any info would be appreciated, thanks!

 

1. I installed my ST in 2017. I have never used magnets nor velcro. I do not have any issue with the rear flapping in any condition (70+ mph cruising, strong winds (cross or tail), 15 mi long washboard road, etc.). I did have an issue with the front panel flapping violently within a year of installation; at highway speed with a 40 mph crosswind. (It wasn't a prob for that 1st year when there was not any x-wind.) I had to install the provided snaps for the front panel. No issue since - in any condition. One point that might make a difference (IDK) is that mine is an access cab with a long bed. Maybe only the short bed toppers flap. ???

2. I do have the reflective bubble wrap in the ceiling, between the frame and the canvas. But I have not folded the ST since that insulation has been installed. Also, I only had to cut the length as it came in the proper (or close enough) width.

3. It was cheap for me to get the rear tinted panel from ST at the time of initial order. I was lucky enough to be in on a group buy (2017) which included the tinted panel at no extra charge. I have had other car windows (glass) on which the tint bubbled. Very annoying and very difficult to see through! If you ever go that route, don't chinz on quality. You might also consider that maybe the flap won't be a big concern for ruing the self-attached tinting (esp since I don't have any flap), but the rolling of the window (for safari mode and normal use) might really take a toll on it. ???

 

It flaps on my long bed. Got a small tab of velcro currently - just need to replace it with a wider one.

 

Now I wonder if that's due to the difference in tail gate shape between 2nd Gen and 3rd Gen? No flap on my long bed.

 

Was out bombing through the desert with a buddy. I added some silicone in the gaps at the end of the bed rails by the cab, and done weather stripping along the tailgate edges. Almost zero dust got in. Very impressed.

 

1.
I use a strip of velcro/3m adhesive stuck to a strip of magnet on the bottom side of the window. 3 years now. Works excellent. Super easy. Parts are available from McMaster Carr.
Part no. Marine Grade Hook. 1" 8200K331
Flexable Magnetic Strip 1" 5759K29
*Edit I copied this from a post I made a year ago so 4 years now with no issues. The magnet strip is just enough to hold the flap to the tailgate so no issues at all with paint as in some who've used stronger magnets.

 

I used the below Magnets. Bought the 25 pack. Cut a very small slit in the end of the loop velcro on the flap just wide enough for the magnet to fit inside the pocket. Then slide the magnets in end to end all the way across. I think I used 21 or 22 total. Make sure to line up the N / S poles on the magnets before feeding them in so they don't try to flip or move inside. I left the slit open. I doubt the magnets will come out easy. This makes the whole flap bottom a giant magnet. Super simple with no extras beyond the magnets. Been this way for a couple months and no issues. The magnets have not moved at all.

$22 MIKEDE Neodymium Bar Magnets 25 Pack, Strong Permanent Rare Earth Magnets with Double-Sided Adhesive, Powerful Metal Neodymium Magnet for Craft, Fridge, Kitchen, Office - 60x10x3mm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CXRVRWH?ie=UTF8

 

Thanks dude! Went this route, seems like the perfect answer to what I was looking for, appreciate it.

 

Afternoon everyone! Yesterday I cleaned up the softopper as the 4th is the unofficial start to the summer in the PNW. Figured I would throw together an unsolicited recap on how to clean these as many have asked about it. I’m also curious on any extra tips and tricks from others, so please be sure to give me a critique as well!

For starters the biggest question is, what products do you use? I have been using the Chemical Guys Convertible Top Cleaner with a small utility scrub brush to get the caked on mud, dirt, and grime out of the softopper. Once the topper is clean I spray on 303 Aerospace Protectant and use a generic microfiber cloth towel to rub it into the topper fabric. I also pull out my ladder to help reach some of the top portions.



To be honest I have only used these products so I cannot provide you any practical expertise on why these products are superior to others, if they are. What I can provide is the reasoning. I went with the Chemical Guys cleaner, over the Meguiar’s, since the ingredient list seemed simpler and didn’t appear to have a lot of additives. It is a little pricier, but I typically go with the mantra, “simpler is better”.

For the protectant, 303 is a well known product that a lot of people trust, especially on TW. I was looking between the Marine/Aerospace and the Automotive Tonneau Cover & Convertible Top protectants. I ultimately settled on the Aerospace product as it was a simpler process to perform, spray on and buff in, and had a wider range of materials you could apply it to, such as leather, plastics, PVC, fabrics and more. The Tonneau Cover & Convertible Top protectant required you to have a damp surface to spray the protectant onto and then rinse off after application, and seemed to be strictly used for vinyl and fabric materials.

For a base line, the photos below are the starting point. The protectant had faded and the topper had dirt and mud on it from making several trips out to the local National Forests.



My typical process is to leave the main panel on the truck and pull the front and rear panels off. From there I start spraying a small area with the Chemical Guys cleaner and scrub the area similar to waxing a car until the suds subside. If you have a dirt spot that didn’t come out all the way, then revisit it. My topper is second hand and there are a couple spots that won’t come out. At this point this is how the topper looks:



Not too shabby at this point. After scrubbing the topper I will take it to the local car wash and rinse out the soap. This isn’t typically talked about, but I feel that it is important as it pulls out the dirt and cleaning agents. For the front and back panels I will use the floor mat clips at the wash to hold them so they are not flapping everywhere and to keep them up off the ground.

Once the topper has dried out I will pullout the 303 and start spraying it directly onto the topper and using the microfiber cloth towel to buff the protectant in, again similar to waxing a car. The hardest areas to buff in the protectant, for me, are around the plastic Velcro strips. The Velcro latches onto the micro fiber towel so you have to use some caution. For reference, below is a few pics showing the difference between the topper only being cleaned versus the topper with protectant on it.

Here you can see the top of the topper. The 303 treated part is the portion closest to the camera with the untreated portion on the side with the truck cab.



From the side, again the treated part is on the tailgate side with the untreated part on the cab side.



The directions for the 303 state to apply the protectant out of direct sunlight. So I would suggest doing this outside on a cloudy day, or underneath some shade. The 4th was fairly cloudy and it was late enough my parking spot had just enough shade that it would be out of any direct sunlight even if the sun popped out.

Once everything is coated with 303, you’re done! Time to put the front and back panels on and clean up.

 

I'm impressed on how nice my softopper cleans up after 3 years of dirt and sun.

 

I used to spray mine down with convertible top cleaner and then scrub it with a hard bristle brush two times a year. Nowadays I just pressure wash it, taking care with the nozzle around the stitches, and call it done.

 

I’ve been following the twice a year scrub regimen. The problem I have is that the car wash doesn’t seem clean off the caked on mud though. The first photos in the post above were after I had already went to the car wash after everything had soaked in a full days rain. For some reason the mud out here does not want to come out.

 

Anyone have a Softopper for sale in NorCal for a short bed Gen 3? Thank you!!

 

There’s a softopper buy/sell thread, try posting there as well.

 

Has anyone used the foil backed cotton duct insulation on the inside of a softopper? Using the Reflectix seems like a good easy idea but I couldn't deal with the top being shiny foil lined. Not sure how effective the cotton stuff would be using it with the foil side up. Guess I could try

 

Haven’t tried this out but from what I read sounds like reflectix needs air between each side to be effective so not sure how well it would work in softopper application, plus seems like it’s more for windows. But yeah I don’t wanna feel like I’m sleeping in a grow room either.

 

If you go this route would you be able to report back on it? I’m interested in knowing how well it works.

 

I like your style, dude.



I don't know about how it's going to do with the dust, but it'll definitely going to keep the flapping down. These are the McMaster-Carr part numbers I ordered. The magnetic strip P/N either changed, or I ordered something slightly different. Ordered Friday for $26.50 shipped, and it arrived this morning.

8200K331 Marine Grade Hook, 1" Wide x 5 Feet Long
5699K16 Flexible Magnet with Holding Power on One Face 1/32" Thick, 1" Wide, 5 ft. Length

edit: @Blue Canary, not sure what you're doing for this, but this is way better than the velcro I was using before.

 

Right on! Like-minds! I wondered if those part numbers would still be relevant. I still had them written on my workbench but it's been a few years now. The other add-on I use, like your duct-tape, are these 2 rubber grommets you can pick up at most hardware stores for a couple bucks. Slides on tight and keeps that rail from walking out on you while rolled up!